Torquing pinion nut on S110 & S130

[slim]

I want to know what kind of tool everybody uses to hold the pinion yoke when torquing the pinion nut on these axles. We don't do very many repairs on them but the last few have been a pain in the ass. I have made a holder that attaches via the four driveshaft yoke bolts for the last one I did but I'm curious if everyone else has had this problem. If you don't know the torque is 832 ft-lb and we use the torque multiplier also.

[slim]

I did a search after I posted and this has been covered before but maybe someone has something new.

[Keith Browning]

THIS TOPIC?

[Fordracer]

I bought a new Snap On 4:1 torque multiplier on Ebay for around $200 a few years back to use when torqueing 6.0 head bolts the three 90 degree turns and you can do it with one hand. I had to overhaul a F-450 rearend and I used it and a 250 lb torque wrench on the pinion nut. 250 lbs in, 1000 lbs out.

[BrunoWilimek]

I have one sitting out behind the shop right now in a 1999 F550 cattle truck that needs a drop-in carrier assembly($9000+) due to the spider gears and axle side gears lacking teeth and the inside of the carrier all munched-up. The cost to rebuild it was less than 1/2 that, but we don't have a press that will install the ring gear rivets and used ones are not anywhere to be found in the province(the closest one was in Saskatchewan). I priced a torque multiplier if I had to do the re-assembly, but to get back to the original question, what do you brace the pinion flange with? We have two companion flange tools, one of which should work, but there is no mention of using one in the shop manual(did they actually perform the proceedure?). The tool numbers are: OTC 307-372 and OTC T78P-4851-A, which crosses up to 205-126. Both have a 1/2" square hole in them to use with a Johnson bar. Since I have not actually done the re-assembly, I don't know if my Johnson bar would even be up to the task. It does work on the smaller diffs in the F350's.

[Brad Clayton]

I found an easy way to set the third member assy in the housing without messing up your gasket maker. Take a couple of old 6.0L head bolts, lop the heads off and thread them into the housing, as they are the same size. This will provide you with some nice dowl pins. I actually did my last one on the lift with the truck in the air. I used the cherry picker and a chain and lifted up to the rear end housing and let it slide down the dowels I made, into place with ease.

[eastendpowerstroke]

. Take a couple of old 6.0L head bolts, lop the heads off and thread them into the housing, as they are the same size.

Yeah thanks buddy

I just tossed a set out and I got a rear to do probably tomorrow or Friday.

maybe if I'm real lucky it will fall on my foot and I can get some time off.

 

Back on topic I have a snap on 4:1 multiplier I bought brand new for $200 cash. If I come up with more I'll let you guys know

[Aaron]

How many 6.0 head bolts do you want?

 

I have new and used in stock.

[Brad Clayton]

Ditto on that, got'em runnin' out of our ears here.

[eastendpowerstroke]

I got a set of new ones I can sacrifice.I scared up a head gasket set for my truck if I need them but I'll do studs if I ever take the heads off again.

Brad buddy, don't take this the wrong way pal but the LAST thing I want from you is more of your fucking hand me downs.

[Brad Clayton]

You can have my new service manager if Captain America doesn't work out for ya!

[slim]

I have never seen the other two companion flange holders anywhere and there is definitely not a factory tool for torquing the pinion nut according to FMC Hotline guy. I used a piece of 1/4" plate steel and drilled 4 holes that line up with the u-joint bolts, then cut a big enough hole in the center to fit the socket. I then welded a piece of angle to the plate that is about 3 foot long. I use a 4X multiplier to torque the nut and it is crazy looking with all this stuff hanging off the pinion flange but it is very easy with all this stuff compared to trying to lock down the truck and torque the nut without holding the flange.

 

Ditto on using bolts to slide the gears into the housing. I cut the heads off some off the longer bolts that secure the gears to the housing-you're supposed to replace those bolts according to the book because of the loc-tite.

[LARRY BRUDZYNSKI]

I used a piece of 1/4" plate steel and drilled 4 holes that line up with the u-joint bolts, then cut a big enough hole in the center to fit the socket. I then welded a piece of angle to the plate that is about 3 foot long. I use a 4X multiplier to torque the nut and it is crazy looking with all this stuff hanging off the pinion flange but it is very easy with all this stuff compared to trying to lock down the truck and torque the nut without holding the flange.

 

Got any pics???

[slim]

I could get some, but it's not pretty.

[cbriggs]

I have a home made jobby out of 1/4" x 4" flat, mine has slotted holes to fit most kinds of diff, same length as top drawer an my roll cab ( about 4' ish)Works ok, and price is right.