DamageINC Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Hey guys! How's life in dealer world? I'm off in indieland now, haha, but it's been good to me. Until recently, at least, lol, I have a new friend in the form of an EARLY build '03 6.0 pickem'up. Here's the scoop. I've had some time to spend with this thing and finally was able to verify a solid crank-no-start while cold condition. I don't have an IDS available to me so my data monitoring is not really up to par with what I'm used to, but either way, the only code in the system was a P0603. I don't think the vehicle has a programmer, but I haven't had an opportunity to ask the owner. While cranking, ICP ramps up almost immediately to anywhere from 1200 to 1700 psi. I have good FICMSYNC and SYNC as well. RPM signal is good, no apparent problems with the cam/crank sensors. Cranking RPM hovers around 200. One thing I have noticed that kinda makes me anxious is that, even though ICP responds and builds quickly, it takes a good 10 seconds of cranking before I have base engine oil pressure (according to the gauge on the dash). I fail to see how that is going to cause a no-start if I still have good ICP... (I almost fail to see how I can even have good ICP with low base engine oil pressure to begin with so I haven't spent any time exploring that possibility anyway, lol). Here's the kicker though - I can spend minutes cranking this thing and get absolutely nowhere. But if I give the turbo inlet a little sniff of brake cleaner, it fires right up and runs it's ass off. And it will continue to start up just fine afterwards until you let it sit for a while again. I have replaced the GPCM with a known good unit just to take that out of the equation, even though it passes a glow pplug test and there were no codes for the GPCM anyway. I'm asking the diesel gods here for guidance and hopefully someone here can shed some new light on this truck and maybe give me some new paths to go down. I have VERY little experience with the early build 6.0's and understand that their programming strategies vary from what I'm used to dealing with on the later models. Thanks again for your time guys!!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Are you able to monitor ICP voltage instead of ICP pressure? That pid could be giving you a false reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 What scan tool are you using? Correct on the ICPV, I like to see .17-.24 KOEO and climb quickly to 1.25-1.5V cranking. Also, what are your FICM voltages? If "M" voltage is under spec it would cause this. It's usually 48v or so, when it gets in the 30's or lower it causes a hard cold start. FYI you can use an amp clamp to verify GP operation, they usually pull 170-180 or so initial amperage KOEO cold. Most of the time the CEL lights when the GPs act up. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Sorry, should have mentioned that my FICM M voltage stays at 48 and SOMETIMES dips to 47.5 momentarily. I know that's an important PID but I've heard that they're basically find unless they go below 47 volts at any time so I haven't looked into that yet. Also, ICP voltage is about .2 KOEO and jumps to almost 2.0 volts while cranking. Once started, IPR hovers at around 24-25% at idle so I don't think I have a legit ICP issue either. In fact, I think I'm a retard because for whatever reason I thought I was getting FICMSYNC. Now I go out and fudge with it and low and behold, no FICMSYNC now. Cranked it for a while and then magically after about 30 seconds of trying on the 3rd attempt, FICMSYNC goes 'yes', and boom, it starts up. I shut it off, and now no more FICMSYNC while cranking again. My other voltages for the FICM are getting low while cranking, I'm having trouble keeping them about 10.5 volts, but "M" voltage is looking good.. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 FICM_MPWR minimum voltage is 45 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbudge Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Just working on one today, also an 03, ficm voltages seemed good, no ficm codes, but no ficm sync. Checked cam sensor for rust causing excess air gap and that was ok. Then noticed the ficm relay would buzz sometimes. Since we got a whole bunch of these things apart we swapped in a ficm from a different truck and away she went. Customer wasn't impressed with the price of a new ficm so he is taking it away, on a hook I guess, cause it sure won't run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted October 23, 2009 Author Share Posted October 23, 2009 I can't spend a long time checking this truck out because it's low on the shops priority list right now so I only get 15-minute peeks at it at a time, lol.. (I have a 4.2 Audi A6 in a million pieces right now) Either way, the problem is definitely with the fact that the FICMLPWR and FICMVPWR voltages while cranking aren't high enough to start the truck up. The sniff of "fuel" bumps the rpm up enough so that the alternator gives it a little boost and then it sees 11.5v or greater, FICMSYNC goes "yes" and the thing stays running afterward. If I stick a plug-in battery charger on the truck and set it to "Jump Start", it hits the system with about 16 volts for the jump start and this truck starts up EVERY SINGLE TIME with the jumper plugged. Both batteries on the truck test out fine (they're 800 cca batteries) and it's still in the 50's (farenheit) out here. I am gonna give the wiring a little once-over here, starting with the FICM relay and pins and move on from there. Any chance that the FICM itself could be the cause of this? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Dave, If it hits when you boost it, I would be looking at the cables. Bad or dirty connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikill Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Dave, If it hits when you boost it, I would be looking at the cables. Bad or dirty connections. I'm with Larry. I think you have a bad battery connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 Yeah I went that route today first thing and decided to run a jumper cable right from a battery terminal to the starter. thing starts up every time like that, the starter connection was corroded to shit. Unfortunately, the entire starter broke when I tried to remove the cable so now it gets a new starter too, lol. Either way, I think this is going to take care of it. Really appreciate the input from everyone though, I'm glad I was on the right track instead of going down some weird ass road that i don't belong on, hehe.. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I think everyone here has been burnt by a bad connection at one time or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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