Brad Clayton Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I haven't been on in a while with any photos so I thought I would put something up. This is the way I leak check the lines on the HPFP after R&R. This is probably a rehash for most of us but if it isn't, I would highly suggest doing something to check the fittings for leakage before reassembling the truck. It could make for a really bad day if you find out there is a leak when the truck is back together. Alrighty then, this is what I start out with: this is the old pvt adapter from the WDS and a home made fuel pump jumper. The jumper will work for 60's and 64's. I screw the hose into the fuel cooler line. And run the other end into a drain bucket so I can bleed the air out of the system. Plug the jumper into the fuel pump. Power the harness with a 12 volt source. I reassemble all the fuel lines on the truck so there are no breaks. I leave the right side of the heat shield off so the pump fittings can be monitored. I power the pump up and bleed the system by opening the fitting on the PVT hose. Once all the air is purged I close the fitting and let the pump run for 10 or 15 minutes. I periodically open the ball valve on the PVT hose to allow more air that gets picked up to bleed off. After running the pump for a while a close inspection of the fittings reveals everything is A OKAY. After doing this the truck will start right up with no worries and that is one less thing to have to bother with when the cab has been off and all the other fluids are all pooched out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 And for the benefit of those not following this... we had a thread where we discussed leaks at the Viton o-rings for the LOW PRESSURE lines at the HPFP. Some guys were getting leaks there. Two things I recall were lubricating the seals before assembly might help eliminate leaks and there was a question about the lower torque spec on the nuts. Just sayin. Nice post Brad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 I have yet to have a Viton leak, but I sand any imperfections down that may be on the bottom of those acorn nuts and lube the seals heavily with engine oil. Thanx, just doin my part for the community.....i.e. I'm bored as shite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 This is a great idea and should be done at every major repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Nice post Brad. Do you actually crank the engine over with the cab in the air too? I have the exact same jumper harness setup as you've rigged up. I also have one for 6.7s too, after changing fuel filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Negative on cranking the engine, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I have a similar procedure with the jumper wire for the fuel pump, but I use the 6.4L fuel bleeder kit with the hose from the 6.0L fuel tester kit, run the hose back into the fuel tank and voila Excellent write up Brad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 I had my first leaker the other day. I was doing the pump cover gasket tsb and found the high pressure fuel pump to fuel cooler line was very hard to take off. So I preformed the leak test and found fuel just pouring out that line that was hard to take off. I tried to re seal it but it would still leak even with new nuts and seals. I inspected the line and found the surface were the o-ring sits was concave. I guess they had torqued the copper washers too much at the factory and it damaged the line so that the viton would not seal. Man that 5 minute test saved my ass, and my pay check!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 I always power up the pump and pre-bleed the fuel system. Haven't had one leak yet thankfully. Those fuel lines worry me every time though also another thing to note is make sure the fittings on the pump don't come loose either. I always check those too before the lines go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Once, I had a Viton seal leak on me. Ever since, I've been lubricating them with silicone dielectric, and have not had an issue. I don't bother to check for leaks prior to finishing the assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChristopherH Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I had one leak after a High Psi fuel pump cover gasket repair--ever since then, I jump power to the pump and do the same thing. Very wise. I do this when doing 6.0 head gaskets with the cab off also--I loosen the fuel rail plugs at the rear of the heads and bleed the fuel rails in the heads--helps them start up and run better a little quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyf Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 I have one right now that also has a concave line where it connects to the HPFP. I would advise anyone to inspect these lines before reinstalling them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 My experience has been if it has copper washers on when it comes in it will leak with Viton seals. I always replace lines if it has copper washers reuse if has Viton seals. That has worked for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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