Super-Duty 5.4L 3V exhaust manifold

Alex Bruene · January 24, 2013

For those of you who hate replacing right side exhaust manifolds on 3V engines, I've found a better (a.k.a. faster) way to replace them.

As it turns out, if you don't heat the nuts, and manage to take the nuts and studs out of the head together, you can remove the manifold without removing the engine mount. Done this on the last 2 that I've done, at it's worked great. All you need to do is move the A/C compressor out of the way, remove the starter and inner fender and unbolt the y-pipe from the right manifold only. The manifold will fit out between the mount and the head (only if the studs came out with the nuts-which they seem to do every time.... Put the new (tapered) nuts on the new studs, slip the manifold and gaskets in place and put on the studs/nuts. The tapered nuts will hold until the stud is bottomed, then they'll tighten up.

And, if you've already figured this out, I just wasted 3 minutes.

lmorris · January 24, 2013

We have been doing them like that for awhile with out removing the starter,leave the A/C compressor bolted but remove the 2 lines instead. Even works for doing the right side manifold on a 6.4L.

Matt Saunoras · January 25, 2013

I've been known to ream out those little nubs on the stud holes in the gasket. Makes starting the stud thru the gasket much easier

the_twig_187 · June 29, 2014

I have done 3 of these in the past 2 weeks... I tried to just hammer on a 12mm socket ( rusted 13mm nut) but ended up breaking 3 studs clear off In the head which I had to drill out... I have found the best way is to get a block of wood and prop it against the trans pan (remove the engine mount bolts) and heat the nuts to attempt to not have the studs break off flush in the head. If only the nuts come out but the studs stay in, this is ok as with the engine lifted on an angle you will have enough room to get the manifold out then you can remove the studs with a stud puller tool (ex: Mac SR4MA)

But to each there own

Keith Browning · June 30, 2014

I too discovered that I bolting the engine mounts and jacking up the side of the engine I am working on provides a lot of room and access to work in. Not to mention it's quick and easy.

cbriggs · July 1, 2014

If the nuts come off the studs I run them back on and weld them to the stud. The heat makes the stud come right out. I have never touched the ac compressor or lines, or lifted an engine off the mounts. Only remove the starter.

Keith Browning · July 1, 2014

Try the engine mount approach. Practically puts the manifold in your face.

forddieseldoctor · July 5, 2014

Try the engine mount approach. Practically puts the manifold in your face.

Yes it does. I even lifted the left side on the one truck that I did both sides on.

BigWalt · July 5, 2014

I use air chisel with long chisel bit.Don't break the nut or stud, just aim on the flat side of nut (counter clock wise), give a quick / light jab, and then use ratchet or wrench of your choice. It will come off easily.