BigWalt

Yes, I have that Lisle tool...works very well. I bought extra double end drill bits via amazon. Comes in a pack of 8. One more thing, I did not buy thru Rotunda , I got it from tool truck.

As of May 1st... fuel price has been steadily increasing... doesn't matter if SUV gets 18 plus MPG... people will always thinks big vehicle = gas guzzler. My point is.... eliminating many car lines will hurt Ford badly...unless Ford got something up their sleeves.... which I doubt that is true.

Must have extremely steep rear gear ratio to get it moving......

I am with Bruce, quite often I see aftermarket FICM with revised voltage that has code P0611 that won't go away.

I do differently... I pulled transmission out first, ( very easy), top part of engine ( turbo, intake manifold, cooler, etc), oil filter assembly and tubing and motor mounts... My opinion... lot easier to put motor back in without transmission, no worries of lining up converter bolts... then reinstall transmission..... May be little unorthodox, but I like it and felt it is faster.....just my 2 cents... Good Luck.

check upper pan rail for flatness, especially on driver side... I have seen them uneven / warp , starting from the front all the way to rear... hope you got something like large straight edge to check.

Jeff_E, Everything was replaced previously. Yes, you are correct, there may been fuel in system, I already did check, like I mention before....Everything was replaced previously. Customer traded in for newer diesel, I got that job via used car department.... Complaint was hard starting, and MIL on. After replacing sender / pick up and cyl number 2 glow plug, truck runs beautifully..... No issue at all.

What about these style? I use them quite a few times on my personal vehicle, unfortunately I have not done them on customer's vehicle.

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found the issue...missing orange valve on fuel sender pick up. edit...why can't I upload picture...I get error code 500

2008 F350 Super Cab, 129k miles...Used Car trade in. 6.4 diesel. two codes... 2291 Low IPC when cranking and P0672 ..glow plug circuit cyl 2 fuel is clean, no contaminations. filters was replaced. New frame rail fuel pump. Oil level is good, not over filled. Looks like long block or complete motor was recently replace....too clean for 129k miles and paint on block / heads...no history. When sitting overnight, cranks forever, no start...0psi FRP..... keep trying then boom..engine starts. Runs good, no misfiring. Brought to my bay, shut off, try re-start..cranks for good 20 second then starts....able to repeat that process over n over. What threw me off is FRP goes to zero, cranks for 20 second FRP then goes to 5140 psi and then starts / run. Low fuel pressure is 9psi. perform High fuel pressure test under service function...passed! Did high pressure bleed test, ..sporadic bubbles, not steady stream of bubble.... something tells m there is a leak but where? Like I mention...someone nearly replaced everything....

Diesel tech here, we got swamped with work so I volunteer this job....31k miles, 2015 F150 with massive oil leak.... entire under carriage soaked with oil.... leak appears to be coming from right side turbo feed tube, oil pan is dry, front cover is dry....I already ruled that out. question is how reliable is 2.7 eco boost engine if I replace right side turbo and feed tube only? I really don't want customer to come back with blown or seized motor........I send hotline for info and still waiting for them to respond. I thought maybe some of you have any insights n these motors.

Hmmm..wonder why I can't copy n paste or quote???? anyway, this is my response to DieselD... Agreed....someone posted link..... I don't do anything unless I asks first......

Thanks. someone already posted on FB.

Don't want to step on anybody's toes. Am wondering if it is ok to download coffee table books and then post on FB? FYI......I have not done it and wasn't comfortable to do that without permission.

30K.....what's that????

No clue in mode 6. nothing out of ordinary. only thing I found was very loose G112 connection on driver side inner fender. remove n clean, then secured it good. road test 10 miles, went over speed bumps, rough road and railroad track. cannot recreated stalling.

2017 Ford F250 4x4 with 6.2 gas motor. Only 5600 miles. Intermittent stalling, MIL on then flashing rapidly....just prior to stalling transmission bangs into gear. Other dealer replaced wiring harness, fuel pump and pin fitment at fuel pump connector....do not know if that was original complaints. Their Oasis / warranty repair history description is vague... Anyway, truck came to us, No hard fault codes, couple memory codes from BCM and ABS module, they're U codes....I don't recall what codes but will write it down and post it here. Perform Live Network test, all are in green, nothing turns red. Data monitoring various PIDs, nothing stands out. My next step is find out the common denominator of multiples U codes then go from there.....I suspect loose ground or bad pin fitment. What bothers me is MIL flashing rapidly but no codes stored in PCM or any other modules. Anybody has similar situation?

I hope you're correct...haven't seen that van yet....What bothers me is they said "motor runs crappy".

either simple green or cascade works for me along with VC9..... I take thermostat out, driver side block drain, and let it run @1200 rpm for hours with garden hose in degas bottle....gotta get the motor hot....cold motor doesn't do the job good.

2007 E350 with 6.0 diesel...258k miles Swamped with work, Boss send this van to other shop, they did engine swap. 91k miles on different engine. Shop got motor running, ran crappy, they diag and says rocker arm clips broke on cyl 7, recommended replaced all of them. Replaced all of them, got motor running, broke few of them again.... I say they installed incorrectly but they insist all clips are install correctly.... If they say is correct, I am suspecting missing or worn rocker arm tip, wiped cam, damage lifters or stuck valves. Most likely that van will be towed back to me this week......any ideas so I can prepared for... .......FYI...am not looking forward to do this job.....I'm 1 of 2 men shop...over 10 E series and F series waiting to be check out.

had to steal picture from Keith......don't drop the box or whatever to forward clutch cylinder....they are fragile....very easy to get it out of round. I've had few that are out of round right out of the box.....steels won't slide in easily.

This is where I got mine... www.nu-di.com model number 420-167

After reading this post, I got something to say, In my opinion it is combination of flat rate pay and manager issue.... ......I am living in Pa, near NJ border, I was in the middle of quitting one dealer from NJ to different dealer in Pa. Former co-worker asking me to come, told his Boss about me. I had job interview, drug testing etc. I am schedule to start ASAP........unfortunately.........not gonna happen...read on..... Dealer in NJ is small 8 techs shop, with fairly decent pay. I am the only Master & Senior Master Tech. We are looking for techs but nobody wants to work for us. That's because we used to have strings of piss poor service manager, techs and reputation. It is all in the past, right now we are doing ok, and slowly climbing out from the bottom. Dealer in Pa is huge 24 techs shop with great / crazy pay. ...... Many of them are Master Techs and Senior Master Techs. They're always advertised in help wanted ad. ... This dealer do have great reputation but why are they always looking for techs? 24 techs shop really bothers me, Service director did say this to me, I need four more techs, do you know anybody want to come here. WOW...four more techs, one bay per techs..... The way I see it, it is nice to have crazy money at larger dealer, but too many techs will keep me from getting 40 plus hours per week. I cannot see one manager controlling 24 plus techs, not including service advisors. Here's my motto......" it is easy to schedule 50 plus appointments per day, hardest part is waiting for unpredictable customers to show up" I have never seen customers shows up on time, majority of them shows up few hours late, no show, or shows up few days later..........Nah, no Thanks, I am going to stay at small shop for awhile!

I uses chain, cheaper and universal. Keep the chain tight, no slack. see picture below