BigWalt

I have been on both sides.There are positives and negatives of Union, unfortunately negatives out weight positives. Union is not a cure all for FUBAR shop, it is just band-aid. You must fixed shop first and get everybody on same boat otherwise there will be chaos.Union protects seniority and lazy workers, nothing you can do once Union is in! That being said, why Union, we got laws that protect us, on top of that I certainly don't need to pay expensive one time initiation fee and weekly union fees to protect me while the Union Rep wallet are getting bigger and bigger.One more thing, if you ever decided to leave Union shop, then you may have to pay first to apply Union withdrawal card / application otherwise they can go after you to pay what you owed them.( .....kinda stupid...doesn't it......)

<<<<<<<<<Looking for job soon.....Ford Diesel Certified Tech, Ford Senior Master Certified Tech. Live in Pa near Philly.

I was wondering, why go by tire / wheel size, why not go by overall height / diameter? example....... OEM tire / wheel 285/70R/17 = overall diameter is approx. 32.7new tire / wheel 285/55R/20 = overall diameter is 32.3that should not make any differences, shouldn't it?

Are you serious Matt? there are two scrap yards outside Philly, they both pay good $$$ for EGR coolers. I get 40 dollars each for 6.0 EGR cooler, before core charge came along.

No core charge for 6.7 EGR cooler?Mine got core charge.

My parts dept do stock these sensors unfortunately, once it is in my hand then it is non returnable. I do not blame them, I blame the azzhole techs abusing parts. We got too many parts installers and not enough diagnosis technicians.

Where are you from, Canada or USA?If you're in USA, you need to weight the options of benefits especially health, pay scale, cost of living, locations..etc..From my experiences, automotive dealers pays more and offer benefits better than independent shops. Volume of work at my dealer is always busy, I never ran out of work.Sure, I know recalls are a joke, Focus trans are junk...blah, blah..I can go on and on but it pays the bill!As for prior approval, cost caps, warranty documentations, plus other chit...don't let that get under your skin.

doesn't matter, if it is 2 miles or whatever. I, myself have been monitoring EOT and ECT via IDS, in few cases I have seen EOT are 70 to 100 degrees higher than ECT, while the gauge on dash reads "normal". Bottom line:::::Gauge are not 100% accurate period!Gauge might be reading air pocket temperature while there are no coolant or little coolant circulating the engine, coolers etc..etc..This is why diesel coolant system must be bleed properly whenever it is drained or taken apart. I know a lot of guys don't do that, they add coolant, slammed the hood, road test and park it.Few weeks or months later, something else took a chit!

Customer is correct about gauge being pegged. Been there done that before. I replaced motor for that.

great mind thinks alike.....That is exactly what I did, I got 4 of them laying around, they're very handy when moving disable truck to my bay.

what he said....^^^^

No, but they should know what air filter is!

that plus other Ford idiot design call screw rivets. What an load of garbage is that!

Are you serious or is this just an act?I cannot believe anybody would spray paint air filter, c'mon now........

Oil leaks on Ford 2.9 and 4.0................very similar engine, don't you think Engineers would solved gasket issue?Early production GEM module, it goes bad without warning, you can have window stuck open or closed, wipers inop, etc etc..... who's the moron invented that?Plastic intake on Ford 4.6 Police vehicle...aka Ole Leaker.

Don't forget forward clutch pistons on AXOD......anybody remember that.........

don't forget 307 Oldsmobile.frigging pistons are machining the cylinder walls.50k miles, you need new pistons and bore job.

It is driver side fuel rail. It solved the problem.Per techline, they said they come across bad fuel rail machining caused PCV not sealing correctly.

dumb question...Is the turbo stock / factory OEM?Few weeks ago, I had 6.0 came in for service, I know you got 6.4 engine but please keep reading this.This 6.0 came in for no start, found low FICM voltage, replaced FICM did solved no start, after replacing FICM, I fired up this 6.0, freakin thing make loud whining noise.Scared the chit outta me, after checking this and that I found out someone modify OEM turbo excessively [ internally]. Like I mention above, is the turbo OEM or modify?

Reman converter or new stock, it gets replaced under recall no matter what.

While looking at IDS data logging, wiggled the EBP connector and observed the voltage. I think you'll find the problem.

I know it is old topic, I got identical issue.I did pinpoint test for code P0088, it led me to replaced PCV.Code P0088 is now gone but code P0087 came on. Went back and recheck everything, I suspect defective PCV but techline is telling me to re-torque PCV, if re-torque doesn't fixed it then get driver side fuel rail. I got a funny feeling it is more than that and they are not telling me anything.I have replaced numerous PCV and FRP, have not got any issue except this one.Anyway, what was the fixed?

core charge?