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magnehelic gauge

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2 service managers ago manager loaned out our gauge bar with all the diesel gauges on it, now on multiple occasions I come up to time to check crank case pressure and do not have the tool, inform manager and still has not bought one. looking to get my own magnehelic  gauge was wandering if any body has any suggestions on one with a reasonable price

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Are you just looking for a magnehelic or a new gauge bar? Although I don't use anywhere near as often as the past I still find it useful to have the bar. Diagnosing pressure and restriction issues is easy when you can hook up multiple gauges at a time. As a Ford Dealer you really should have the gauge bar.

 

 

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2000

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I've never trusted the big Magnehelic gauge.  They're probably accurate from the factory, but after being shop handled a couple of times I'd rather use a water manometer. Simple to make and use and never inaccurate.

 

:grin:

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thanks, will look into  water manometer , and I agree with keith as a dealer we should have gauge bar, but we do not at this time, and managers are reluctant to replace the one that is known they loaned out and did not receive back, it is on my shoulders to provide accurate diag, and these tools are needed to see the whole picture.

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thanks, will look into  water manometer , and I agree with keith as a dealer we should have gauge bar, but we do not at this time, and managers are reluctant to replace the one that is known they loaned out and did not receive back, it is on my shoulders to provide accurate diag, and these tools are needed to see the whole picture.

Well then it is pretty simple. You tell them that you cannot diagnose the truck because you do not have the required test equipment that you are supposed to have. Is it YOUR fault that a previous manager lent out the tool?
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I don't know if I should say this, but I've never used one. The one at the shop I'm at now musta been washed off with brake clean once cause it's so foggy you can't read it. I've been buying all of my own manual gauges as I need them.

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Nope, you gotta cut a sweeping arc style slit across the plastic face, then modify the needle to where it has a 90 degree tit that pokes up through the slit and then your golden!

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The manometer is not a gauge you would need very often however it is crucial to diagnosing cylinder sealing concerns... damaged cylinders or an engine that is just plain old worn out or dusted. Excessive crankcase pressure no matter what the reason means major engine repairs or replacement is necessary. But I suppose I am preaching to the choir here. ;)

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looked through 198 pages of rotunda catalog and did not find gauge bar, and it seams that if you work on  the 6.4l engine that the need to check crank case pressure comes up quite often when dealing with miss fire concerns, easier  to check before you check manual compression. truck that I was working on run good down road, had white smoke after sitting and idling, not using coolant, customer did not add coolant, had 6gun banks tuner on it, dpf delete, banks ram air filter, relative compression with ids had cylinder 8 down 5%, power balance test with ids under manual balance screen shows cylinder 2 and 8 down by at least 15, manual compression test showed cylinder 2 at 290 psi, and cylinder 8 at 250 psi removed valve cover and inspect rockers, all looked ok, not broken, would have been nice to see crank case pressure since there was no abnormal noise in engine not popping back through intake and cranking engine with rocker cover off did not reveal any thing abnormal.

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ya remember that 8 was 19  and 2 was pretty high don't remember exactly but disabled banks tuner and reset fuel tables, test drove and went back to same fuel trims, had all trims wrote down on ro at work, will check in morning.

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speed shop that installed tuner told customer that it was just for fuel economy, I thought why do you need 6 different selections if just for fuel economy

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We have a metric shit ton of 7.3's running around down here, and the crankcase pressure gets checked on everyone that's in for a drive-ability issue or starting problems and what-not. The average miles on diesels that come to the shop is over 200K.

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The manometer is not a gauge you would need very often however it is crucial to diagnosing cylinder sealing concerns... damaged cylinders or an engine that is just plain old worn out or dusted. Excessive crankcase pressure no matter what the reason means major engine repairs or replacement is necessary. But I suppose I am preaching to the choir here. ;)

 

 

We have a metric shit ton of 7.3's running around down here, and the crankcase pressure gets checked on everyone that's in for a drive-ability issue or starting problems and what-not. The average miles on diesels that come to the shop is over 200K.

I'm not saying it's not. However most people around here wouldn't care if I told them they had a motor with slightly excessive blow-by. If it runs and gets them from point A to point B they are more than happy with it.

 

I should make a manual one and do the crankcase pressure test on my old 7.3 but I don't know if I really wanna know how bad it is.

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The gauge on the bar is a Dwyer series 2000 part number 2060. I found it for $70 shipped from an hvac tool site. Unfortunately the picture is a generic one that shows the wrong scale on the gauge.

 

http://www.hvactool.com/products/dwyer-0-60-h2o-magnehelic-differential-pr-gauge-dwyer-2060

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I was at a mall a few years back and there was a small art show.  This guy had made a small art motorcycle you know the ones with wire and other random reused parts. Well there it was a magnehelic guage acting as a gas tank. I talked to the artist and he had no idea what it was until I told him. 

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