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Track bar ball joint

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Not sure how this design ever made it past the initial drawing on a scratch pad, much less into actual production. They are a reality and they wear out FAST. Here's a rehash of the shop manual procedure.

 

I like to use the tool kit Ford supplied dealers to do this job, however it can be done with a generic ball joint press kit.

 

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I printed these out and keep them in the box for hassle free flat rateness.

 

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Here is the ball joint, I think my dealer in Vermont had about 3 dozen of these in stock.

 

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Here is the offensive unit in the chassis of a 2006 F-250.

 

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I loosen the nut with a 24 mm socket and then use a 2 jaw puller to separate the tapered press fit. You can beat on it with a hammer but it's close quarters for swinging, and the puller makes short work of it.

 

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This is the set up to remove the joint.

 

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It's a bit of a tight fit, getting an impact on the press.

 

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In some cases when more room is needed for the socket setup on the press screw, I will use a large ratchet strap to pull the axle over to the passenger's side of the frame.

 

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In some cases, the press will need a little help by way of shock therapy. A couple of raps on the housing containing the ball joint is usually enough to get it moving.

 

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She's free.

 

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Setup to install.

 

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Here again, due to space constraints, I like to start the joint moving by using a wrench. This ensures it starts in straight.

 

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Then I hammer it home with the impact until it seats.

 

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This particular track bar is getting a new bushing in the other end as well. It was damaged from an unchecked diesel fuel leak.

 

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These are pretty straight forward and I use our shop's 20 ton press to drive them in and out. There are two main ways to go about removal, 1st is to heat it up with a torch and melt the rubber a bit to get it moving and 2nd is to use a hole saw kit that fits just inside the outer shell and drill through the rubber separating it from the outside ring. Then you will have the ring left in the eye of the track bar and you just knock it out with an air hammer and chisel bit. Lastly lube up the new unit a smidge and drive it back in with the press.

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Very nice write-up.  I do quite a few of these too but honestly I wasn't aware there was even a wsm procedure let alone a tool kit.  I'll have to do some hunting on Monday.

 

I also find space a little limited when pressing the new joint in, most of the times I just wrench it the whole way in. They don't seem to go in so tight that this isn't possible.

 

Another tip is if your forcing screw is hollow in the middle I will take the spacer and ball out, drop a cut off bolt down in the hole. Cut the bolt to the right length so the ball joint stud will fit down inside about 1/4" before it hits the bolt.  This holds the stud so it cant walk out while being pressed.  Only once did I press the stud right thru the middle of the joint, an air chisel made short work of what remained. 

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Due to differences in ball joint tools, mine being an OTC - in comparison I have to remove the brake line bracket to get my press in there. Not a big deal but it highlights the small differences you might encounter. I also remove the right wheel and tire for easier access. Also, I separate the track bar from the joint with a ball joint separator which is quicker.

 

Nice job Brad. :)

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Due to differences in ball joint tools, mine being an OTC - in comparison I have to remove the brake line bracket to get my press in there. Not a big deal but it highlights the small differences you might encounter. I also remove the right wheel and tire for easier access. Also, I separate the track bar from the joint with a ball joint separator which is quicker.

 

Nice job Brad. :)

I also have an OTC press, on the one I did I could not figure out how to press in the new one. My adapters that I used were too tall to fit in my press, so I just used an adapter and a bearing along with the threads on the joint to pull it into place. 

 IIRC the main problem was my short adapter similar to the one Brad has one top was about the same size as the crimp on the ball joint and I didn't think I should press there.

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