8WA Sman Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I have been thinking about some of the useful tools and technique I have picked up in the time I have been working on vehicles.(I am still young so don't expect to be too amazed ) I am hoping to learn some NEW info for the techs on here, not that I haven't already learned a ton of stuff . Most of the ones I am going to post about have to do with getting the job done without having someone's help, since most of the time I work by myself. Let's say I have a suspension/steering component loose, I have found that a long bar clamp pinched on the tire with the bar piece turned toward the inside of the vehicle can work great for this. Something I wish I would have got a long time ago is this https://www.tkcomfg.com/pedal-pumper.html to bleed brakes. I know there is other ways to bleed brakes but I am a visual type. I also use it to diag caliper or brake hose problem or other things pertaining to the hydraulic side of a brake system. I have an air regulator on mine so I can control the force. I have also used it to tap the accelerator pedal on some engine noises but you have to be careful when doing this. Speaking of brakes for those who may not already know this...If a rear caliper has to be replaced, after I remove the rear caliper I then push and hold the brake pedal down past the first inch of travel and this will shut off the fluid flow to rear so when the hose/line is removed there will be no brake fluid mess. Beats buying those hose block off kits from the tool man. I really like these tire hangers http://www.shinnfuamerica.com/ProductDetails/Omega/100LBWheelArm/92100/1772 so I don't have to pick tires off the floor. I didn't mount mine solid so I can move them around, they actually fit nicely in my rotary hoist arm angle plate. My latest tool tip just happened just this week. I was looking for a rear pinion flange holding tool and I discovered that Mitsubishi has a end yoke tool that should be the same as the Rotunda tool 205-126(T78P-4851-A) that I picked up from the Mitsubishi dealer tool web site https://mitsubishi.service-solutions.com/Detail/355/MB990767-01-END-YOKE-HOLDER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 I forget about the fact that I also found a grease gun coupler that does not leak http://locknlube.com/ I have been using it for 6 months and it works great. I also comes with a extra seal/rebuild kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I saw that lock and lube coupler and was thinking about getting one. I think I'm the only one in the shop who actually owns a grease gun (or 3) and uses them on a regular basis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 For those that don't have the teflon seal installer (211-D027 or D90P-3515-A). What I use is the bottom part of a plastic funnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 I got a new pocket light http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NV6FDLG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3/192-9260514-3032104?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1145MGQ3K9M76CK2HS54&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_i=B00GOP89S0 in today to replace my Streamlight Microstream. Let's just say it is quite a bit brighter then the stream light and only about a 1/4" longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 I use a streamlight stylus pro all day every day. I go through one every few months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 I got a streamlight tasklight at work. Runs on 3 AA batteries. I love the lifetime warranty. I send it in and they send me a new one no questions asked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Mine get hammered, clearly beat up from being dropped, scratched etc. I never considered sending one in due to abuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Mine turns from black to silver with use. The tasklight holds up much better than the stylus lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 An old inner tie-rod end has the same thread size and works for driving out front hub assembly that are stuck. I prefer one that has a six sided spot to put a wrench on. Now for the Ram trucks with the AAM axle this tool is the way to go http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=646266&PartNo=DHP1&group_id=682401&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I got the snap-on tool to push out the hubs on the superdutys. I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Ford hubs are easily pushed out by using the axle shaft. Simply put a pry bar in each end of the shaft where it mates up at the axle housing and pry towards the knuckle. The shaft does all the work and puts even pressure on the hub which is critical to getting all 4 studs to slide out of the knuckle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Ford hubs are easily pushed out by using the axle shaft. Simply put a pry bar in each end of the shaft where it mates up at the axle housing and pry towards the knuckle.That is what I do... using a 5'prybar that I borrow from a co-worker. I like those stud tools too though but never bought one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Ford hubs are easily pushed out by using the axle shaft. Simply put a pry bar in each end of the shaft where it mates up at the axle housing and pry towards the knuckle.That is what I do... using a 5'prybar that I borrow from a co-worker. I like those stud tools too though but never bought one. I don't see that as getting the stuck ones out, but if it's working for you than more power to you. I got the first one that my Snap-on dealer got in. He gave it to me to try and I refused to give it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Ford hubs are easily pushed out by using the axle shaft. Simply put a pry bar in each end of the shaft where it mates up at the axle housing and pry towards the knuckle.That is what I do... using a 5'prybar that I borrow from a co-worker. I like those stud tools too though but never bought one. I don't see that as getting the stuck ones out, but if it's working for you than more power to you. I got the first one that my Snap-on dealer got in. He gave it to me to try and I refused to give it back. I also use the big pry bar. Stuck ones get a couple taps with the air hammer and a chisel bit, or while applying pressure with the pry bar an apprentice gets to have at the axle/u-joint with a 3lb hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Oh don't get me wrong, the prybar method sometimes still requires effort on some trucks. But, it has yet to fail me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I get stuck doing them on the ground too often. Either at home or on too heavy of a truck for my hoist to pick safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 That's a good idea with the prybar. I've just been working them out with a 4lb sledge. Doesn't seem to require too much effort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Anyone ever price out the engine lifting bracket for pulling out 5.4's and such? $360 bucks from Ford is the cheapest I found. I think I'm gonna copy the one at the shop and build my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWalt Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I uses chain, cheaper and universal. Keep the chain tight, no slack. see picture below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 That's what I do on the 7.3s and the 6.0s. I was thinking it would be nice to have the right tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Our bracket for the modular engines took a walk long before I came to Peace River. Just recently one of the techs welded one up and it works like the dickens. It uses 4 M6 bolts in the intake manifold holes on each side (8 total). I was skeptical at first but it's the bee's knees. Only down side is it doesn't 'stretch' like the Rotunda one, so when doing a V10 it's just perched in the middle which makes it slightly more tippy. Good thing we're not doing as many six eights these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Could you snap a picture of it in use Tyler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 The next time I have one to yank out I'll snap a picture. Otherwise I'll just get a pic of it on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 I repaired my Snap-On MG725 it had a broken hammer piece, I also replaced three O-rings and one bearing. I decided to repair it myself since everything else inside looked fine. I found this video helpful I also purchased this service tray the other week and it works great it raises up and the top will rotate The other week I had a '99 SD with dual rear wheels, this is what I found works to remove the front hub extensions that are rusted to the hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.