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EGR Cooler Performance (P2457)

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Wow that thing is a brick.  I've done a lot of EGR coolers and none were plugged up solid like that. 

 

The P0401 is common but I've never gotten a P2457 KOER.  I just run the claim through as the TSB anyways, they know there's a problem.   

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Ditto on the P2457 KOER as expected in the TSB. I have NEVER gotten the code to come up. The first two of these I ran into I followed the diagnostics in the TSB and I did not get the code. I then spent the better part of an hour performing the diagnostics in the PCED only to come up with nothing. Cleared the code and released the truck. They WILL (and did) come back with a repeat P0401 and pissed off customers. I, Like matt replace the cooler cores based on the P0401 and they are plugged EVERY TIME.

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Yup, we were in some warranty trouble for a few months so I was instructed to clear the P401 codes and let the trucks go. Didn't really solve anything, just delayed the repair a few weeks. Luckily we didn't make anyone mad in the process.

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Me three^. Anyone of you guys ever have issues with the stupid o-ring on that damn metal tube going into the coolant crossover? This is the second 6.7 I've been into that that damn o-ring got nicked going back together.

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I don't take that tube out. I take the bracket bolt out so the tube will give a little then slide the upper intake past it. It only has to move maybe 1/8" to let the intake through. No issues doing it this way so far. I do take the hot side duct out, not sure if the book has you doing this or not.

 

I've had problems in the past with 6.4s and cutting those pink coolant tube orings.

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I don't take that tube out either.  Unless I break the bolts going in to the exhaust manifold.  In fact, I only remove the intake if I break the bolts...  Otherwise, I remove the battery and PCM and pull the cooler out that side.

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Speaking of the upper intake, those four bolts on the driver side, along with that damn wastegate hose sure are fun to wrestle with.

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yah I did what Alex does, the WSM says to remove the upper intake and bla bla bla. but all you need to do is get the battery tray out and disconnect the pcm harness and with a little wag of the dogs tail you can get her out.

 

I never got the P2457 code KOER either. and with this being my first one I had no idea the TSB even existed. so I was in the WSM chasing wiring concerns until I got fed up with it so I fibbed that the code came up KOER so I could do the TSB as a last ditch resort. Then when I went to replace it I was shocked when I cracked the case open to find out that the right side was completely clogged beyond belief

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Well, that goddamn tube is causing be a lot of grief with the one I'm presently working on, and losing my shirt over. Make that THREE attempts to get that damn tube to seal properly to the coolant crossover. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

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The very first thing I do is attempt to remove the EGR pipe bolts that go into the exhaust manifold.  If they break, I pull the manifold.  If they don't, I remove the battery.  I guess it doesn't really make that much of a difference anymore.  I've done so many manifolds, I can get the upper out in under 10 minutes.  I suppose I'm just stubborn.

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Well, going forward I am NEVER going to touch that tube again, at least not where it goes into the crossover. I will bend the shit out of the tube where it connects to the right side lower manifold if I ever find myself having to remove the upper intake for any reason anymore. There HAS TO be something wrong with that connection, and it's neither the tube nor the crossover. The tube was not bent, burred or damaged in any way during removal so I'm stumped. Neither is the bore where the tube slides into. :scratch:

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I also don't remove the intake or heater tube. I removed battery box and remove the pcm to help make some room. I have also removed the cooler with the inlet exhaust pipe still attached to the exhaust manifold. I had a few that the bolts did not wanna break loose, so instead of worrying about breaking them I left the pipe in. You can twist the cooler enough that it will clear going in and out. Not easy but doable.

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I don't understand removing the battery though. All I disconnect/remove over there is the PCM wiring, wiring bracket and usually the PCM. This gives you enough room to remove the cooler bolts on that side. The only reason to remove the upper intake is to remove the EBP tube bracket nut which I can do by jamming my arm over the manifold and get the nut with a !0mm ratcheting box wrench. You then gently bend the tube up with a pry bar enough to get it over the stud and nut. Don't REMOVE the nut either as it will take more time than necessary and probably cause your hand to cramp. As you pull the EGR cooler assembly straight forward you can then pull the harness off of the studs in the back and the cooler comes straight out. The only things I have go wrong on my are broken EGT pipe bolts and I usually spill coolant on my pants as I am walking the assembly over to a workbench.

 

By the way I have the 6.7L Beydler drill guides including the EGR tube mount on the manifold. Since getting the guide I haven't broken a single bolt. Oh the irony is killing me!

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Hahaha I watched our other guy soak himself in coolant the other day while carrying a cooler to the bench.  I always make a path of absorbent mats straight to an oil drain right by the headlight to set it in.

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As far as intake manifold removal is concerned, I never touch the coolant tube.  It doesn't get in the way for me.  I have found the perfect angle to hold my tongue to get the intake manifold out.  All I remove is the CAC tube and intake tube.  Unbolt the manifold, and twist it out.

 

 

As far as the broken bolts go, I have been experimenting with arc welder extraction for the past 6 months or so, and honestly, I'll never drill another bolt again.  The one I did last week, I broke both bolts in to the exhaust manifold, and got them out in under 10 minutes each.  I found that I would spend a lot more time drilling them...  Not to mention the number of drill bits you destroy on alloy bolts.

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As far as the broken bolts go, I have been experimenting with arc welder extraction for the past 6 months or so, and honestly, I'll never drill another bolt again. The one I did last week, I broke both bolts in to the exhaust manifold, and got them out in under 10 minutes each. I found that I would spend a lot more time drilling them... Not to mention the number of drill bits you destroy on alloy bolts.

Never say never. There has been a few that I haven't been able to get with a welder.
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Me three^. Anyone of you guys ever have issues with the stupid o-ring on that damn metal tube going into the coolant crossover? This is the second 6.7 I've been into that that damn o-ring got nicked going back together.

Never take that tube out Mike. No need to.

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Speaking of the upper intake, those four bolts on the driver side, along with that damn wastegate hose sure are fun to wrestle with.

1/4 drive air ratchet gets them out every time no hassles. Plus I remove all the bolts that go into the valve covers before removing the intake, comes out easier. 

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If I feel the EGR tube bolts starting to bind up in the manifold, I turn them back in a bit, but leave the pipe loose, and soak it down with penetrating fluid. 20 minutes later they come right out.

 

I have also gone back to removing the upper manifold because I am sick of scratching up my arm on that stupidly sharp edge on the cowl. 

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