Chad_Kelsoe

"The reductant quality module provides the reductant tank level and reductant concentration to the PCM. The reductant quality module incorporates an ultrasonic transducer and sensor assembly, located at the bottom of the reductant tank. The transducer produces timed ultrasonic sound waves through the diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) and the sensor measures the return rate of the sound waves. As the DEF is consumed, the liquid level lowers and the return speed increases. Additionally, the sensor monitors reductant concentration percentage by calculating the speed of sound travel through the DEF and comparing it to an expected value. If this value is not met, the reductant is diluted or contaminated. The reductant quality module is integral to the reductant tank assembly. " Copied out of the PC/ED manual for a 17 F-250, description and operation, engine control components, Reductant Quality Module.

I've done lots of E-Series engines and I've always just pulled them out the front. Just like Keith, tear apart the top side, valve covers and oil rails and it will come out. But of course most of my E-Series Jobs were ambulances or upfitter body's added on. As far as Ashville Engines, I've heard of them. The story I heard was they make you install a new front cover, the rear cover and oils pans have to swapped over. By the time you added parts and labor to build them up equal to a Ford long block, you had more money tied up. I would push for the Ford engine just for the warranty.

I'm pretty sure we don't have the trans tester, but I'll find out. Only been here a 2 weeks now and my shop is separate from the rest, so I'm still learning everyone and what all special tools we still have.

Ok so I have load tested both circuits while wiggling the harness. Both circuits test good. With the fact that the EPC solenoid resistance is in spec and the wiring is ok, looks like I'm gonna call a PCM on this one. I've seen several PCM failures on 7.3's before( usually due to chips), and never one for this. And I did a screen print on the IDS, none of my pid's have the # sign indicating the ability to control that pid. I've seen the ! come up several times on other trucks, but this truck doesn't even give me the option. And I don't remember too many 7.3 computer's that gave me output control either.

I have load tested at pin 12, good voltage and lights a bulb nice and bright in run and start. I need to double check the control circuit, I've been looking at this truck in my free time and can't remember if I load tested the control circuit. I don't have an amp clamp, but my manager said we just got a VCMM so it might be a good time to play with it. I'll have to hook the IDS back up, but in trans data logger none of my pids had the # sign to indicate that I could do any output state controls. I'll try to get the truck back in at lunch and give you guys an update.

So toady I have an 03 F-250 7.3 4R100 trans with the complaint of O/D light flashing and harsh shifting. So I did a KOEO test, retrieved DTC P1747. I notice WSM tells me this is a short circuit in the EPC circuit. So I attempt to perform test E. I only have an IDS, so I can't perform the output test mode. I can't perform any bidirectional controls with the IDS either, so I look over the wiring diagram and try to diagnosis best I can. I have 12 volts to the trans at pin 12, and it lights a test light nice and bright. I don't have the trans tester either to prove out the EPC solenoid, so I check solenoid resistance; 4.3 ohms. Within the pinpoint test range of 3-5 ohms. The control circuit(925 WH/YE) is not shorted to ground anywhere, so at this point I am sure the wiring is ok. The one thing I noticed is at KOEO, measuring across pins 12 and 11 found 12 volts. If I crank the truck, it drops down to .9 volts. Turn the key off, voltage goes away like it should. I should note that on KOEO, I can disconnect the pcm and my ground goes away. I can leave the trans connector unhooked and perform a KOEO on-demand test, and P1747 will continue to set on-demand, along with shift solenoid, trans temp, and TCC solenoid circuit codes( which were expected). At this point, I'm leaning toward the PCM being shorted to ground internally. I did happen to notice the cover for the PCM has been cut like it had a chip installed at one time, but it currently does not have a chip and the plastic plug was installed. But another thing that concerns me is I have trans fluid in the trans connecter. I have noticed this before on other 4R100's, but haven't seen a issue from it. I did drive the truck, I have all the gears but I do have harsh shifts and forward/reverse engagement. Trans fluid is nice and red, not burnt. And trans looks to have been overhauled sometime previously. Any thing else I can test before I quote a PCM?

Well at this point I feel like every car coming in for service is for me. 2008 E-250 5.4 Customer complaining of intermittent stalling. Verified it, engine would start and stall. Sometimes it would idle, but pressing accelerator pedal would cause it to die. Had P1233 for Fuel Pump Driver Offline, along with P061B for Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance. I found a bad Fuel Pump Driver Module, replaced Fuel Pump Driver Module and cleared codes. It ran fine, they come to pick it up and its acting up again. Now I have the P061B returning, along with P2105 and P2107. 2006 F-150 4.2. Getting plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter, and induction service. 2016 F-150 2.7. No start, overtemp warning message. Found ECT reading -40 degress, 4.99 volts. Removed intake and fuel rails, found a rodent has chewed through the ECT wiring. It got turned over to the guys insurance company, gonna replace the knock sensors( they come with the ECT connector), and reseal everything back up. 2013 F-150 5.0, missing on cylinders #2, #4, and #8. All 3 had low relative compression. Cylinder leak down test found 90% leakage out the intake valves. Truck was out of warranty, but boss turned it into CLP. Pulled the heads and looks like #8 cylinder wall is worn, can hardly see the crosshatching. Pushing to get Ford to approve putting long block in it. 2015 Explorer 3.5( Non-EcoBoost). No power at WOT. Weak Fuel Pump. 2015 F-150 3.5 EcoBoost. Customer is complaining about a slapping noise coming from the rear diff when accelerating. My road test didn't find anything, so I got to wait on them to contact the customer for more info. 2016 Fiesta Customer states after driving in the rain, multiple warning messages came on. Also said when people get in and out of car it makes noise. 2016 F-150 5.0. Overtemp message on dash and always showing hot, even after cold soak. 2013 Escape 2.0, getting a engine harness. 2001 F-350 7.3. Customer bought a transmission from us and had another shop install it. Now they claim it's slipping. I think I have some more to look at, but that's what I can remember right now.

So for an update on the 2017 Fusion with the battery draw concern. Following hotline's response, I could never identify an draw. It mostly averaged around .013-.015 ma. It was then escalated to my FSE, which after talking to engineering had me replace the GPSM module. This car was equipped with the standard radio( no touchscreen or nav). Anyways, she picked it up last week before I went on vacation and hasn't come back since.

Yea I did 2 of those on Saturday and a 130" one this morning. All my needles were also loose in the u-joints caps. On the bright side, those u-joints sure are easier to change when there is no rust on the driveshafts yet.

Yea uh sorry about that. I was trying to upload a pic of a broken rod and block from a 16 Fusion Hybird I had on Friday. I uploaded from my phone and it was huge. I meant to send you a message about it, but got busy. My bad... Didn't realize I had messed up that bad. Just thought it was in my gallery only.

So my 17 Fusion with the intermittent battery drain had already been sent to the escalation team at hotline( my manager made a contact already), they recommended 2 weeks ago to attempt to drive 2-3 times a day, attempt to push every button, open every door, hood ,trunk, etc. They wanted every system to activate and wake up to see if a module was not going to sleep. Then perform my battery drain test. So far I have not identified a drain yet, it usually averages around .013 amps on my meter. I'll have an intermittent spike to .130-.150 amps, but hotline states that it's normal. So when I talked to them yesterday to give them the update, I was advised they will be getting my FSE involved. It's the 3rd time it's been here at the shop for the concern, my first time to attempt to diagnosis it. Also ACM and some other modules had already been programmed to the latest calibration, which I verified.

So I've been at my dealer for nearly 5 months now. It took a few weeks to finally figure out where I was needed most, but it seems I have taken over the gas driveability. We're a small dealer, 1 diesel guy that does all diesels and 250's up, myself doing pretty much anything, 1 guy that does mostly DPS6 clutch's and small trans repairs, 1 guy doing brakes and alignments, and 1 doing electrical and trim work. Then we have 3 guys for oil changes, tires, etc. We also have an Asset student that was kind of paired up with the "trans" guy, but it was pretty much a do this for me and I get paid for it deal. So my manager has approached me about the asset student working with me when he finishes this round of school. He's pretty smart and has the drive and we get along pretty well, so I think it would be a great idea. Mainly because I like to get him involved on the diag and help him understand exactly why he's doing any repair. But we have to figure out a way that we both get paid fairly and doesn't kill the dealer. To give an idea, I get paid $32 per hour flat rate, with a 30 hour guarantee. He is currently paid hourly, but I don't know how much. I do know he gets a bonus for flagging so many hours a week, if he works a full week. I'm not sure how he will get paid if he starts working with me. I'm trying to come up with some ideas for each of us to get paid fairly and not rip off the dealer. They do a pretty good job of taking care of folks around here. For example I was off 1 1/2 days due to an ear infection that gave me vertigo. They cut me a $300 check out of a "hard luck" fund to help me out since I don't have paid time off yet. My manager's first idea is to continue paying me flat rate, but pay me $10 per hour for each hour that he turns. I'm not sure how he will be paid at this time. So I'm looking to see if anyone here has done the same in your dealers. Was there any plan that worked good, plans that didn't? I'm looking for any suggestion, as I believe doing in-house training with this kid will help to grow him as a tech and hopefully give our dealer another good driveablitly tech to help with the work load.

So currently I just finished a retail 6.2 install on a F-250, it dropped a valve and customer approved a long block. 2014 Flex no-start, has no fuel pressure. 2013 Flex, intermittent no crank. Got towed in, of course when I went out there it fired up. Last time it came in, RFA module would not respond. Checked powers, grounds, network. All was good, plugged it in and started working. 2012 F-150 with a coolant leak and pop noise after reversing and then driving forward. 2017 Fusion, 3rd time it's been in for a dead battery. ACM and a few other modules were already updated, dispatcher got with hotline and they have some tests they want me to run. That's just what's inside the shop, I have 9 more tickets in my folder to look at sometime.

So my customer installed PCM program ended up being a simple broken crank sensor connector. Installed new connector, it fired right up.

I have nothing but gas lately, haven't touched a diesel in weeks. 2008 F-150 with a PATS issue 2011 MKX with a stuck open EVAP vent valve and trying to upsell a 100K service 2013 F-150 EcoBoost, customer complains of a rough idle and smoke on start up. Also A/C does not blow cold at idle. 2015 F-150 2.7 EcoBoost, CEL with P2450 for EVAP Blocking Valve. TSB 15-0171 applies and its out of warranty. I'm guessing it will go CLP though. EDIT: Customer just approved with no issue. 2005 F-150 Customer installed their own PCM, wanted us to program. It's still a no start concern. 2013 Mustang 3.7. LH Valve Cover Gasket and A/C Compressor

I've used trans assembly lube for the last few years and haven't had any issues that I know of. I've had to take plenty of filters out where the person before did not lube the o-ring and it was tight coming off.

I also changed dealers about a month ago. I was driving 45 minutes to an hour each way, and with my little girl turning 2 and missing time watching her grow up I decided to move to a dealer closer to home to have more time with the family. While I'm still in the truck shop, they don't have quite enough diesel work for 2 techs so I'm also doing gas drivability, along with all other repairs. Pretty much the only thing I haven't done yet is a DPS6 clutch, but that's because they already have 1 tech dedicated to them. That's ok with me and it gives a me a change up on the work load.

I put an engine(6.2) in one last year. Actually pulled the body to do it. Guess pulling all these Ford cabs have spoiled me.

2015 F-350- Getting front brakes and primary radiator, OFL, Fuel Filters. All retail. 2011 F-250- Getting thermostats and replacing the turbo base gasket for an oil leak. 2012 F350- Has a broken LR axle shaft on a Dana 80. Concern was wouldn't pull in 2wd. They drove it in on the front axle. Gave the customer 2 options, install a new axle shaft, flush tubes and housing, and refill. Then if road test found any noise they can either continue to driver it or replace all the bearings. Waiting on approval. 2014 E350 bus- Came on with CEL on. Wrong gas cap installed causing a gross leak. Correct cap fixed that, now waiting on approval to do front and rear brakes. 2014 E250- 4R75 Trans- appears planetary came apart, this thing has a crap ton of metal in the pan, burnt fluid, and slipping. Its out of warranty so it got quoted a reman. Also quoted a set of convertors for the P0430 set in the PCM. Waiting on approval.

I forgot about the diesel shop in the next town that does injection pumps and turbos. But they decided to go ahead and sell the truck as is.

So our old wrecker has a turbo assembly going bad. Our boss doesn't want to spend the money on another turbo from Cat as we just received a new 2017 F-650. Any one have an alternative source for this turbo?

So anybody read over this FSA yet? According to my manager we have 6 trucks on our lot to check, along with our new F-650 rollback that we just got in. Also just had a 2017 F-350 get towed out today. They bought it on Monday, brought it to us yesterday morning with a low oil pressure light on with 104 mile on the truck. Before I could do much diagnosis, customer decided to tow it back to the dealer they bought it from.

I pull the cab to do this repair, but I do just like Brad and leave the turbo on. I did 3 in a row a few months ago and had the last one done in about 8 hours. So far the longest it has taken me is 12. I just prefer to pull the cab and be able to stand next to it. Also makes it easier on me torqueing the head bolts down.

We use the Norco 1/2 ton fastjack and the Norco adapters for the 4R100/5R110 and the 6R140. I pull them with transfer cases all the time and don't have any issues. The few times I've had to go into a 6R140 I mount on the engine stand as Ford recommends and use the engine hoist for the convertor, pump, and input shaft. Makes it a lot easier.

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