RyanG

Never would have touched the damn thing.

Put an assembled head on it and drove it, no noise.

Flat would be alright if you never had to do warranty work. Gear up for getting bent over once in a while.

I checked all the lash adjusters and everything looks ok. I heard about the run out too. Another tech had the same noise, hotline had

him replace the head with a new set of adjusters and followers for the same noise which fix the issue and hotline is saying the same

thing to me. I'll keep you posted.

Anybody run in to mystery knock at idle on 5.0. I have it down to the passenger side valve cover, removed

and did not see any problems with adjusters or followers. Removed the belts, cancelled cylinders etc. with

no change in noise. Hotline said possible issue with cam cap alignment or cylinder liner distortion. Just

wondering if anyone has run in to this yet. This is the first time I have worked on one of these so not

familiar with common issues.

Note: The knock is only at idle, goes away as soon as rpms raised.

I just spoke with company who installed system and they think it was installed incorrectly. Its on its way over to them, I'll keep you

posted.

Have an ac issue and have no clue whats wrong. Customer say blows cool air in cab, the ac up fit is

tied into the factory system. It has a block between the expansion valve and lines with additional lines

coming out of the block to go to the rear unit. It has a roof mounted condenser and fan assembly but it

also looks like they looped the rear system into the factory condenser as well. If I turn on the cab

ac I only get 60 degrees out of the vent, but if I turn on the rear up fitted unit it will bring the front unit

down to 48 degrees. I checked the evap temp pid and don't see anything way out of range. the gauges

with the cab ac on are 10-12 psi low side and 145 high side. To me that would indicate low charge or

weak compressor. I evacuated system and it is full, threw a compressor in, txv valve and new dryer

cartridge and still have same problem. I know that the front will cool down if the rear unit is on because

the rear unit has its own electric compressor and the pressures will come up to where they should sit. Even

though the temp will go down to 48 with the rear unit on, it should still be colder than that on an 80 degree

day with minor humidity.

WENT THROUGH AN ENTIRE DEALERSHIP TEARDOWN AND NEW BUILD, IT SUCKED. IT TOOK 2 YEARS AND THEY TORE

IT DOWN SECTION BY SECTION STARTING WITH THE TRUCK SHOP. THEY PUT UP A TEMPORARY WALL AND KNOCK

DOWN HALF THE SHOP, IT WAS FUN COMING TO WORK AND LISTENING TO JACK HAMMERS ALL DAY ON THE OTHER

SIDE OF A PLYWOOD WALL. AFTER THAT WE MOVED INTO ONE HALF OF THE GENERAL SERVICE SHOP, MOVING LIFTS

AND EQUIPMENT. THAT LASTED 3 DAYS UNTIL THE PARTS DEPARTMENT CAUGHT ON FIRE AND BURNED DOWN SO

WE HAD TO MOVE AGAIN INTO 1 HALF OF THE NEW SERVICE DEPARTMENT. MYSELF AND THE OTHER TRUCK GUY

GOT PUSHED INTO THE DETAIL BAY AND HAD ONLY 1 DRIVE ON RACK EACH FOR SIX MONTHS UNTIL THE REST OF SERVICE WAS BUILT. NEVER WANNA GO THROUGH THAT AGAIN.

I quoted the guy 27 to do everything. Right now its looking like im gonna be buttoning it back up and have a nice day.

I didn't see much in the fuel bowl either but when ahead and quoted it anyway.

Not sure if this has been posted before, was wondering what kind of labor times for complete fuel

system replacement. Truck came in with p0088, reprogrammed and now its back 2 months later with

same code. Took fuel sample from injector supply tube and found metal flake. This is my first one and

not sure on how much labor.

YES, IT WAS A 5 BOLT PATTER. BOLT SIZE WAS 3/4 10 GRADE 8. LIKE YOU SAID, SOME THREAD LOCKER AND GOODENTIGHT. THANKS FOR THE INPUT

buddy_m you were right. I found a spicer axle service manual online and it did not list an specs. as far as the brakes are concerned. they

simply listed part numbers and torque specs of the axle assembly itself. torqued bolts to average spec. of that particular bolt and let

it go.

OK, I will see what I can find

Its always a few people that have to make it a pain in the a** for everyone else. 1 or 2 techs drive up warranty cost, trying to claim ops

that have nothing to do with the diag or repair being made.

Bruce your right that info may help a little (sorry about that). The axle model # Spicer D850F. Year 2008

VIN: 3FRNF65B78V679286

anybody have any idea where to find the torque specs. for f650 hub to front rotor bolts? only thing I can

find in workshop manual is a 10 bolt setup - torque to 105 lbs. ft. the setup I'm working on has 5 large

bolts torqued to a hell of a lot higher rating.

checked over everything and found nothing, thought about throwing a master cylinder on to see if there was a difference but I dont

want the guy thinking I'm admitting there is an issue because then I own it. explained to the customer about

the pedal feel but I'm sure he thought I didn't know what I was talking about and took it somewhere else.

anybody run into customer complaining about brake pedal feel on 6.4 trucks? customer says he has

to push pedal almost all the way to the floor to get truck to stop( in my opinion he is being a little dramatic).

checked everything out, didn't see any obvious problems, drove truck, feels like a super duty to me. I can get abs activation on dry pavement. this

is the second 6.4 customer in a year that I have had complaining about brake pedal feel and myself and

another tech cant find any issue. another tech mentioned something about a possible old tsb for this

issue but cant find anything in pts.

JUST DROPPED IN A BRAND NEW REMAN. GOT THE SAME CODE, PINPOINT TEST IS TELLING ME TO REPLACE TURBOS.

GOTTA LOVE IT!

Just got one. Found vacuum supply hose to egr by pass valve cracked. Replaced hose and rerun koer, all pass. Road tested, code

did not return. Let you guys know if it comes back.

Well it needs high pressure fuel system. Pulled return line off of the left rail and its full of metal. Its odd that nothing showed up on

the pcv or vcv. I'm wondering if this is going to be the case with the cp4 pumps. Truck has extensive maintenance record, all ford

filters its whole life and didn't find any evidence of contamination or rust. I did read somewhere that the cp4 is not as reliable as the cp3.

Who knows. Thanks for everybody helpin out

I read somewhere the fuel injectors and injection pump are different

I've had a few as well. Had to replace a couple of particulate filters due drivers not stopping.

I'm going to remove return line again and recheck for metal and if I don't find anything I will replace the rail first before I condemn the

pump. like I said I found nothing on the vcv, I would think if the system had metal in it I would see something. I did see other posts

about the rail causing similar issues. Anyway I will throw one in and see what I find. 

FRP IS SHOWING .29-.30 VOLTS - 58 PSI KOEO. COMPARED TO ANOTHER TRUCK, IT IS SLIGHTLY SLOWER TO BUILD FRP.

I DID NOTICE ISSUE IS MORE NOTICABLE WITH ENGINE WARM. RECHECKED TORQUE ON PCV.