RyanG

4. Have dumbass up fitters come out and try and work on some of these trucks once they put all there bullshit on with complete disregard to anybody that will have to work on it eventually.

Building a dana 80 and I am confused about the pinion gear markings for shim selection. Workshop manual says should have a plus or minus a number off the centerline and then add or subtract to get correct shim, ok no problem. The pinion gear does not have a plus or minus on the gear head, only markings are what looks like two zeros 00 and then the number 12 180 degrees on the opposite side. Any ideas?

Finally got my dana 80 housing to go ahead with the build on the 08

Just finished installing a factory complete dana 70 on a 16 E350 bus with 250 miles on the odometer that was on its way to an air force base in florida, left hub had no fluid in it from factory.

08 6.4 dump truck tear down for hpfs destroyed by rust

couple 6.7 def heaters

Last but not least a 96 F800 with I don't know what engine crank no start

I agree with you on having the cooler assembly out of the way, I leave it on so I don't have to dick around with forgetting to order seals or possibly breaking the bolts off in the exhaust manifold.

I run in to the same thing all the time. I have had 1 or 2 that would not reset after filling and had to do the refill activation procedure. Only had to replace one so far for a legitimate sending unit failure, I've probably replaced close to 20 for heater failures.

This can also be done without removing the egr cooler to manifold pipe.

Yes they can. Get everything out of the way that overlaps the lines and pull up on the driver side to clear the injector wiring harness on that side. Once you have done that you can turn the line assembly out by pulling the drive side of the line towards you and slip the passenger side out from under the cooler with relative ease. Install the new line in the same way.

I got down to the pump and air pressure tested at the stc fitting with adapter I made from an old fitting and had no leaks. I pulled the pump out and put air through the stc fitting and had a bunch of air blowing out of the pump oil inlet, block off the inlet and fitting was holding. Had to put it back together, the guy is towing back to his mechanic who said that's not the problem. Moving on. Another indicator I forgot to mention is when I was air testing it at the oil rail I took the turbo oil supply tube off and oil starting spitting everywhere.

Have a question about air pressure test for low icp. Truck is from out of town and quit running while driving, icp will only build to around 65 psi sitting in the shop. Verified low pressure oil pressure and no fuel in the oil. Truck just had head studs done and it looks like the cylinder heads may have been replaced (they're painted blue) and a river city egr delete. Swapped a tester ipr and still no start. I have the oil filter out with air going in to the oil rail and I can hear oil bubbling inside

the filter housing. I don't hear any leaks other than faint hissing in the crankcase and I was getting ready to look at the stc fitting. Is the bubbling normal to hear or is there air pushing back through the high pressure oil pump?

Never checked. Everything else looked ok, fuel trims, regen request and complete etc. I suspect oc and dpf. Honestly i hate when one of these come in for regen issues. Customer took it and hasn't been back since.

Well, ended up running truck hard to get it noce and hot. Pulled valve covers and put 12 volts to ipr and cranked. Number 8 was dumping big time out of oil exhaust port. Replaced injector and all is well.

6.4 Ambulance with leaking exhaust manifold and broken bolts on driver side.

6.7 F550 caught on fire by secondary fuel filter

2017 Super Duty 6.2 radiator leaking on driver side up top - 852 miles

08 F350 cab and chassis - waiting on a dana 80 housing destroyed from carrier bearing failure

Its not chipped but I will swap check valves and see if anything changes. In the process of making a half assed kill box.

Forgot to mention there is no change in the way truck runs when light comes on. Does not lose power or smoke.

Here is the rundown... Truck will set intermittent p1211 under wot going uphill. Checked oil level and found 1 quart low but didn't look too bad. Had old style icp sensor full of oil, replaced sensor, connector and changed oil and drove - same issue. Fuel pressure is 75-80 psi at the pump, 65-70 psi at left head under wot and 35-70 psi at right head( the gauge is bouncing badly). Checked inlet restriction, close to 10, cleaned screens and drove, sets code. While driving, ipr duty cycle maxing out at 65%, swapped with know good ipr and still sets code. Blocked off each head and have identical ipr duty cycle at hot idle. Base oil pressure is 22psi hot idle and 45 psi wot. Threw high pressure oil pump and new ipr due to age and still sets code . Ran with valve covers off and did not see any leaks, ran KOER self test with valve covers off and watched for leaks when icp commanded high and didn't see anyghing. Removed injectors on right bank and did not see anything obvious, the injectors for cylinders 5 and 7 were black on fuel inlet portion of the injector bodies. Replaced the O-rings on all four injectors and drove, still sets code. Cylinder 3 sets code on contribution test every time, could I have an injector leaking at high icp? I was going to replace injector but I don't trust contribution test, I was thinking it may be causing the fuel pressure to fluctuate on that bank at wot and I don't have a kill box. Any thoughts?

Thinking the same thing - pin fitment at the connector or a break in the circuit somewhere that might not have broken all the way and you disturbed it when doing the brake job.

Thanks for the info guys. Its an auto trans truck so gonna go ahead and get them.

I have a chance to get a used idm and pcm out of an 01 f250 being parted out. Can both be used on any 99-03 super duty or van for testers?

Better late than never

Noise was intermittent. After i put the head on it was gone for a while and came back with the knocking noise from cylinder liners. I ended up doing a short block per ford. I never found what caused the noise in the head, i just replaced assembly. These were 2 different noises. Its hard to track down the causes due to the amount of things it could be on these engines.

I don't follow the gsb either. If its had def go through it, I put a fuel cooler for customer pay. I flush all return lines and blow them out. If there is metal in the tank, I drag a magnet through it until I get all the metal I can then flush it with water and dry it out.

Ford just released a tsb for pcm update for this code setting. 16-0134. Had 2 previously unable to figure out.

The other truck guy quit again so have double the work load again. I don't mind having the work load, its when everybody wants it right now. If I let them run me ragged doing diag and trying to do everything at once that's when my paycheck suffers. Don't see it getting any better right now.

It also sounds like a good time to ask for a raise.

Your only one guy and there going to have to understand you can only work so fast and do so much. If they don't have enough people to put the work out faster that's on them. My dealer does this kind of stuff too, they cant get anybody with experience so the work load is constantly increasing and still expected to be done in a timely manner. Like you said though, it might suck in the beginning but eventually it could turn out to be better.