RyanG

Thanks for the input. Keith your right but sometimes its hard to get around the fact that something was just replaced. Time to go back to the beginning. As mentioned though, when long crank occurs icp will stabilize at around 1500 psi and ipr is hanging around 45-50%. Icp voltage is at .24v koeo. I threw one on anyway and it didn't change anything so that's why I was ruling out high pressure oil system. Fuel pressure does stay at 55 psi when long crank occurs.

Well I fixed the oil pressure issue. Had it all buttoned up and road tested. low pressure oil pressure ok now, icp looks good. I let it sit for 15 minutes and had a long crank. Now it intermittently will have a long crank hot or cold. I verified hpop reservoir is not leaking down. When long crank occurs ipr settles at 45-50% duty cycle and icp is reaching commanded pressure 1500psi or so when it wont start. Ficm voltage at 47 volts while cranking. Checked under the cam sensor no rust, new sensor. Pulled on the harness everywhere and cannot duplicate. Been messing with this thing for a week and out of ideas. Batteries are up, unplugged the alternator still does the same thing. Very random, no codes and runs great. It doesn't seem to matter if it sits or just got done driving it 20 miles, sometimes starts normally other times long crank. It seems that I even have the shut the key off and back on to get it to start sometimes. Any ideas?

The 2 that I have put scr assemblies in both failed nox 12 level monitor test while driving. After I checked and rechecked everything. If the injector is even slightly questionable about leaking I replace it also. I have found if you run the leak test a few times not just once I have found them to weep slightly. The others luckily set a P207F with an additional emissions related code to diag first. In my experience I find it easier to get them out of idle only mode using that procedure than trying to get them out of speed reduced mode. The last one I purposely drove it until it went into idle only - got tired of fucking with trying to get it out of speed reduced mode.

With 2 new batteries and boost packs cranking for over a minute the pressure switch will not even come up. It will only build about 7-8 psi on a gauge. Removed the lpop and something went through it. Doesn't look like lifter bearings, I'm thinking some pieces of an old stc fitting. A few small gouges and the front cover has a pretty deep groove worn in. Selling a front cover with a pump.

Has the updated STC fitting. I'm thinking has a leaking o-ring under the pump allowing the reservoir to drain down. Its weird how it has become intermittent.

Have an 05 with odd issue. When engine is cold it has a really long crank like when the high pressure oil system was drained for repair. IPR goes to 85% and icp is slow to build. Once vehicle is started it runs fine, ipr 23 % hot idle, fuel pressure 55 psi. Only code in it when it came in was for a P0341. Has sync when cranking cold, I pulled valve covers and

powered the ipr - had over 4000 psi with no leaks. Had an ipr replaced a year ago and all 8 injectors. Stand pipes and dummy plugs are all replaced, ficm voltage looks good. Unplugged icp sensor with no change and vehicle will start normal every time when warm. Removed the oil filter and cranked, oil seemed a little slow to fill the housing but it did fill. Have 50 psi oil pressure on a cold idle and 18 psi on a warm idle. Only thing that seems suspect is I cant build past 40 psi oil pressure under load and WOT. I think I can rule out the high pressure oil system and P0341 which I'm thinking set when vehicle stalled.  The bitch of it now is it doesn't have the really long crank since I started messing with it. If it sits for a while when cold it still has a slightly long crank and ipr is still going into the 60-70% range. I'm thinking a weak low pressure oil

pump. Any thoughts?

Don't worry Keith, I'm sure an engine is in the not too distant future when the rod bearings let go.

Pulling engine out of an ambulance for bed plate reseal. Its been studded but the rocker box gaskets are leaking again. Any issues with reusing studs? I figure wire wheel the threads and hit them with the arp torque lube.

I agree. Have had 2, both from former landscaping companies

Sounds like its time for a long block

I'm working on one came in with same code, did the latest pcm update per tsb 15-0008, and cleared fault. Exhaust message went away on its own but check engine light back on. Code p24c6 particulate matter sensor set. Checked sensor out and found connector to the module backed out, someone broke it when installing a goose neck hitch. Ordered a new sensor, going to replace it under the 15-0083 tsb and hope the P207F doesn't come back. The other 2 I had over the last couple of weeks both got exhaust assemblies and have not been back so fingers crossed.

3 P207F codes in the last 2 weeks!

F59 is 6.8 with a 5R110. Have not had a chance to get it in yet. I don't do much tranny work so I'm in for a learning experience. I saw tsb 16-0057 but this truck didn't set any codes. I was going to follow the symptom chart and put a pressure gauge on it but our trans. guy said don't bother just pull the pan down and look for metal.

Got a 6.7 with locked up compressor also and a noisy turbo.

F59 chassis fed ex truck no forward or reverse engagement

taking a 7.3 out of an ambulance for a pan and reseal

Cam followers. How does the inside of the engine look? Lack of maintenance? I agree with Tyler, if the engine is all sludged up inside, its probable time for a long block.

Track bar bushing and ball joint?

I have had a couple make noise after a filter change and yes I do think its air trapped in the filter housing or its pulling air from leaking quick connects. I've had luck taking the lines back off and pushing them back on or changing the filter out with another.

Good luck! Glad to hear your making things better for yourself.

I have to due a reseal on a 16 550. Honestly, the whole thing pisses me off because the only reason I can see for the design change was to save on manufacturing costs. Why machine a groove into the pan and have a press in gasket when you can just slap some silicone on it and bolt it up. They go from almost never leaking on the 11-14s to every 15 and 16 I get under is leaking.

Small diameter wire brush in a angle drill. I use them for caliper pin bores and they work great. Not sure if you will have enough room though.

03 E450 7.3 ambulance coolant leak from front cover

97 F800 for a fuel leak

06 F350 for brakes and check over.

a couple of 6.7 def heaters

I bet it would be fun to do some donuts with.

I had one that was broken like that a couple of years ago. It came in for a runs rough, I pinpointed the injector and pulled it apart. it looked like someone try to force it back together. When the truck originally came in it had a slightly longer than usual crank. Replaced the injector and pipe and cranking time was normal again.

What the hell is that used for?

Anybody have better luck using anything other than Ford remans? All too often it seems when you put a Ford injector in, they still run like shit and I have to swap out for another.