kbomb2788

I overlayed ckp wire replaced sensor and tone ring. Customer starts still does it but not as much... If it was warranty I would have replaced engine harness... But there are 5 harness that vref runs through

Well looks like the water pump slipped on shaft and kept making contact with front cover. The bearing is fine

Good afternoon and hope you all are safer. I need some advice. This is first time in 12 years I've ever head a oil cooler come back. I had done the flush with cleaners and such. Multiple times pulling block plugs all the times and still comes back with oil cooler restricted. My ECT and eot correlates. I put a coolant filter and this is what I have on it. My buddy says check the water pump for cavitation. (That might explain metal flakes) what's that black stuff... Has new t stats. Thank you

You did 16-0134 right...I noticed when they updated this trucks fuel system I haven seen the sparkle show like it used to show on vcv...and as some one said I was tought if any metal present is bad...I see they push more and more to acceptable...I had one was running ok before...then ford told me to replace PCV and could not get it to start after that...they told me to replace VCV....afte that had me taking fuel sample out of line coming from high pressure pump to rail and finding metal

So far Ford has not been specific whats the actual spec and their "are the cylinders fairly in line with each other". I remember on 6.4 where anything over 8 meant injector is going out. Also had couple of like yours when I forgot to input IQA number in, and injector would fire using old number causing a miss

Thank for replay. on P1177 Synchronization Description This DTC sets when there is an intermittent loss of camshaft to crankshaft synchronization for at least 5 or more occurrences with the engine running. Possible Causes Damaged crankshaft position (CKP) sensor Damaged ignition pulse crankshaft sensor ring Damaged camshaft position (CMP) sensor Damaged CMP sensor target wheel Damaged PCM This is thing is so intermittent... on 4 mile drive it did it twice. I tried to wiggle test around the DPF pressure sensor, Have fan off and tried to wiggle on cam sensor and connector. Tried to mess with throttle plate wiring and other 3 wire sensors I could reach. still nothing. Im about to do the water test (spray with water see if something acts up)

Evening. Got one that is kicking my butt....I have a 12 F350 Chassis cab with 190XXX miles on it. While driving at times the vehicle would buck/jerk (some times do it WOT, some times do it moderate throttle). Some times it would set P1177 Code (never did it on my but had it when first got vehicle and when it came back). I tried different combinations of pids and only one that shows fault is "sync" for about 2 movements of forward error it would say "NO". RPM pid never drops (like when cam sensor goes bad and it has a heartbeat graph) and cant find anyother pids that would indicate a problem (saw a GSB about 3 different v ref on 6.7l but could find problem with it. What I have done is change the crank sensor and replaced pig tail and overplayed Crank wiring all the way to pcm. I am at loss and any guidance would be appricieated. Also it does have oil leak out of rear main. also visually checked thrust bearing play and ok. Thank you ahead of time

You guys remove trans to do the upper pan? At new dealer they don't have trans adapter plate that I used to use on 6.0L and 6.4L.

I used the encoder assembly trick like mentioned above and when it was messing up found it wasn't reading plate b. I overlayed wire but haven't driven it enough to see if it's fully fixed

Hey I got one 2015 F250 4x4 lifted. when get into it in morning 4x4 operates like it should. after driving for about 25-30 min when trying to shift into 4x4 the message on IC pops up and stays on (like you said its attempting 4 more times) then wrench light comes on with check 4x4 and code P1867. First time shift motor was installed (checked circuits at the time pass) as usual service advisor didn't get full info cause unable to duplicate at that time. any was it came back and t case was replaced. still does the same thing. if you let truck sit for a little bit it operates correctly again.

If you check gasket or pump is covered under warranty while other not. But gasket fixes most of them

Thanks for replies, I put new o rings on all injectors (I thought I saw a leak from the top of the injector where it seats against the head but now I think it's from the exhaust port running down) I dead headed the pump and got 3600 psi. I would have to get my fuel gage set up for fuel pressure test...but just from all, what is left and is it reperable or cylinder head needs replacing

How did you figure out it was#1...or did you pull all injectors out?

Hey guys. Got a 7.3l with no start. Checked pids and not building high pressure (was around 300 psi, replaced icp and ipr truck went up to 400 and acts like it's going to start but doesn't) Disconnected right head high pressure rail and installed plug and truck started with ipr duty cycle at 22. Removed right valve cover, I had a truck that had similar issue and the problem was#1 injector the return port was stuck open and oil pressure would vent out causing no stat, I removed all injector vent shield and crank over and did not see oil come out (key off) with key on they squirt oil out. I'm not that experienced with 7.3l, what should I look for, is there an air test?

Hello every one...Im venting... I cant get a break on a side...I got 05 6.0L...Customer brought it in for a miss (i wasnt home so did not see how he got it there) I started in morning (after checking ficm v, batteries, fuel pressure) and #8 was droping out as well as couple of others (83k on truck) I decided to be a nice guy and drive it to check if any others would drop under a load (it was a manual and only could load an engine so far) so i got on a street and drove 200 yards and it died on me (icp and ipr were ok at this time...felt like air getting into a fuel or combustion gasses) so that sunday i spend 30 min getting the truck back to my house under rain. So i got home and replaced the three injectors (8,3, and 1) started the truck up and ran ok...Under test drive #4 started to drop out and vehicle was shacking. I got to a shop i work out of and turned the truck off thinking its air trapped or computer not compensating correctly for a fixed injector (sometimes after injector replacement the truck would run rough until key cycle.) I shut it of and tried to start it and its just cranks no start (icp at 290 psi with ipr all the way up 85) I cursed and left the truck thinking i nicked an o ring or something while doing injectors. The next day I got into truck and checked the pids and it fired right up...it got worm and i shut it off and tried to restart right away and it just cranks and no start (now i have done plenty of hot no start but usually you have to let them sit for a 10-15 min before its a no start) So i thought it must be ipr valve. I replaced the other injectors that were having a miss and ipr valve. Started the truck..Runs great...got the power...no miss. Shut it of and tried to restart and @#$ @#$%!@ the @#$%^ would not start again. I dont have my air leak tester but i suspect SCT fitting, just never seen a truck not restart right away...(the stand pipes and dummy plugs have been upgraded).... Second truck is a 2007 6.0L...No crank...wrench light is on and check guages message on dash...and no inj clicking when turn the key on...Could not hook up to a truck...performed tear tag procedure...network test pcm tcm fail and ic u1900...Could not program the truck and unpluged diffrent modules and components (fan clutch, icp, maf sensor) (truck is a manual) So i do my network checks...voltages...resistance and everything checks out ok. Checked power and grounds for both pcm and ic and ok. Customer got a used ic. Hooked it up and finally was able to program the pcm...and music to my ears i hear the inj cycling... got all excited, went in house told my wife im almost done...go back out...try to do a pmi for ic and does the same thing...#@$...I do several PMI attempts with all fails...restart ids...one thing i did notice that when i turn the key on and the inj doesnt buzz ill cycle a key a few times and they buzz and i can start the truck...what ta hell is going on and dont let me start on a 7.3 that i have...Mind this that at work i have no problems it being a 7.3 or 6.0 or 6.4 or 6.7 but at home...what ta crap

That's good to know. What about pig tails. I know delphi makes them but when I contacted them for catalog they told me since it's oem they can't give me that, where can I get the pig tails from cause 100 from Ford is stupid

Also the problem I have with then locally is they don't respond (the reseller) so if I but it would be odd internet (that was for allient power since you have to buy it through their resellers)

How are their injectors?

Hello. I believe in using oem parts but like many people say when I put prices together for customers it's getting ridiculous (850 radiators on 6.4 and 6.7, pig tail connectors) last thing I was working on 99 7.3 and ebp solenoid broke, the only way to get it is to get a pedestal, from Ford it's remanufactured and retail !!!750!!! Bucks, from diesel o rings, you can get Garrett new for 250...this is getting ridiculous. I know I can't do much in a dealership about it, but I would like to know good aftermarket that i can use on my side customers (recently I also quoted front wheel hubs for 2000 4wd and they were 300 from Ford and 100 aftermarket, I can't compete with that and not getting customers cause Joe shmoe can do it for less.... Bottom line if you know a good place to get quality parts can you let me know please. And good luck out there

Hey since you guys on topic of turbos who does a good job on rebuilding turbos. Around here the price is only few hundred dollars cheper then a ford reman. Who do you use?

I haven't put magnet to the flakes so not sure if its steel or aluminum. Doesn't look like the rad was replaced recently.

Hello guys Got a guy who is on his forth degas bottle. The leak happens right above the front cover to degas bottle hose nipple (the big one underneath the degas bottle) When he first called me about the problem I thought it was fuel in coolant. Any way he gets to my house and I look at his coolant and no signs of fuel (no smell at all) but I did notice metal flakes inside the bottle. He is going to be back this weekend so I can drive with coolant guage to see if his headgaskets are blown (I did oil cooler and egr delete few month back) Any way did you gusy ran into metal in coolant before? Also how do you guys clean your blocks and your heads (headgasket job) thanks and have a good day

I did chage the oil prior to adding dye and we are using some "Wurth" staff so Not sure if it is any good, I am going to ask them to get traceline for next one and will one more to two I already added. Thanks

Hello everyone Got a 6.7L with oil leak. Looked at obvious culprits (engine valley, turbo) and found none. Found vacuum pump leaking (done few of them already) Replaced the pump and cleaned off the engine. Added oil dye (with oil change) took it home few times and notice oil still collection of front cover area but could not see the dye (I think im paranoid and just residual) First time I recleaned the engine after noticed oil was still accumulating. Also noticed oil on to of water pump (when you remove the air cleaner boot and look straight down its in between the idler/fan clutch pulley bolts). Today I noticed oil is present there again. I removed the fan, pulley. and could not see anything above the water pump that has an oil leak. Coolant has no oil in it and I see no dye in it. Have you guys had other problems with oil leak in front cover area. It doesn look like front seal is leaking and I cant see dye. Also about dye, I have been working on this things since 08, put dye on multiple vehicle (mainly when I was busy and just told customer to bring it back) quite honestly I never actually use black light on them cause there are almost always the same oil leaks (7.3 start with intake tubes, sometimes hp pump, some times the trubo back pressure valve, some times cac tube etc; 6.0L few front crank seals, bunch of bed plates, rear main seal, etc; 6.4L front crank, front cover, few bed plates, rear main, etc; 6.7L turbo supply fittings, vacuum pumps, etc) so I never really cared for if it works or not, but this one I used black light and cant see crap...do you know of a good oil dye company or are they all the same. Thank you and have a good weekend

Hey, I couldn't get a ficm today but I ran with valve cover off and noticed oil is pouring right on top of the injectors. Now I haven't done any rail nipple o-ring but is that what it looks like. If it is what you guys charge for repair