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BigWalt

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Posts posted by BigWalt

  1. I have been on both sides.There are positives and negatives of Union, unfortunately negatives out weight positives.

     

    Union is not a cure all for FUBAR shop, it is just band-aid. You must fixed shop first and get everybody on same boat otherwise there will be chaos.Union protects seniority and lazy workers, nothing you can do once Union is in! That being said, why Union, we got laws that protect us, on top of that I certainly don't need to pay expensive one time initiation fee and weekly union fees to protect me while the Union Rep wallet are getting bigger and bigger.One more thing, if you ever decided to leave Union shop, then you may have to pay first to apply Union withdrawal card / application otherwise they can go after you to pay what you owed them.( .....kinda stupid...doesn't it......) 

  2. Where are you from, Canada or USA?If you're in USA, you need to weight the options of benefits especially health, pay scale, cost of living, locations..etc..From my experiences, automotive dealers pays more and offer benefits better than independent shops. Volume of work at my dealer is always busy, I never ran out of work.Sure, I know recalls are a joke, Focus trans are junk...blah, blah..I can go on and on but it pays the bill!As for prior approval, cost caps,  warranty documentations, plus other chit...don't let that get under your skin.

  3. doesn't matter, if it is 2 miles or whatever.

    I, myself have been monitoring EOT and ECT via IDS, in few cases I have seen EOT are 70 to 100 degrees higher than ECT, while the gauge on dash reads "normal".

     

    Bottom line:::::Gauge are not 100% accurate period!Gauge might be reading air pocket temperature while there are no coolant or little coolant circulating the engine, coolers etc..etc..This is why diesel coolant system must be bleed properly whenever it is drained or taken apart. I know a lot of guys don't do that, they add coolant, slammed the hood, road test and park it.Few weeks or months later, something else took a chit! 

     

     

  4. dumb question...Is the turbo stock / factory OEM?Few weeks ago, I had 6.0 came in for service, I know you got 6.4 engine but please keep reading this.This 6.0 came in for no start, found low FICM voltage, replaced FICM did solved no start, after replacing FICM, I fired up this 6.0, freakin thing make loud whining noise.Scared the chit outta me, after checking this and that I found out someone modify OEM turbo excessively [ internally].

     

    Like I mention above, is the turbo OEM or modify?

  5. I know it is old topic,  I got identical issue.I did pinpoint test for code P0088, it led me to replaced PCV.Code P0088 is now gone but code P0087 came on. Went back and recheck everything, I suspect defective PCV but techline is telling me to re-torque PCV, if re-torque doesn't fixed it then get driver side fuel rail.

    I got a funny feeling it is more than that and they are not telling me anything.I have replaced numerous PCV and FRP, have not got any issue except this one.Anyway, what was the fixed?

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