8WA Sman

Anybody using the replacement parts list? Why is this not available to the parts people also, since most need all the help they can get Oh yeah for any discrepancies always refer to the online WSM for the most up to date info

Yeah I did not post the pics until I knew the guy was going to be alright. It was amazing the size of the hole made by the plasma cutter was very small...I think that is what that mark is to the left of the lower plug.

Thanks Leon, I looked @ the bolts on the outside of the oil pan yesterday....I was so blinded I did not the notice some of the bolts have different head markings That head marking matches.. I have some W503296-S437 bolts coming for Monday, no dealers close had them in stock.

I have a '12 F-450 that I was doing a oil change on & found this in the drain plug opening. Any body happen to know where this bolt goes. It has what appears to be a 10 mm head with 15mm flange & washer, threads appear to be 8 mm. It also looks to be broke. I also found these shavings inside the drain plug hole, they look polished/filed off.

It is never a good idea to cut open empty drums.....This is what happened when someone was trying out their new plasma cutter & didn't take notice to the flame symbol on the side of that empty lacquer barrel. The barrel had some steel pieces sitting on top one piece got stuck in the ceiling.

I believe I have the Dell Latitude E5440 https://www.motorcraftservice.com/diagnostic/diagids Click on System Requirements

1997 7.5L On one spark plug the porcelain blew out while driving, the other one was broke by there fleet mechanic.... at least he stopped. Oh yeah I thought that it was the general consensus that stuff like this should end up in Matt's bay

Is any of the customer access wires for the TCM being used?

Doing steering column bearings in a 96' F-250, it's been awhile since I have done one of these...I am guessing 6-8 years...

Could you post last the 8 of the Vin? Only thing I am coming up with is terminal issue @ C3134 or C1010... or CCB18 & CCB19 are cross feeding Compare apply & release amp draw on RR EPB motor.

I used the OTC tool on a '10 Milan, the bearing was pretty rusted in. On this vehicle I just had to remove/replace the axle & upper ball joint nuts. The axle was rusted to the hub, bad enough that I had to file the rust out of the grooves to make for ease of re-assembly. Pros & Cons from my point of view. Since I don't have press @ my shop(Yeah one of those items I still need to purchase) Pros Don't need a shop press Do not have to remove knuckle Less hardware to replace(Seems these days Ford want's every nut & bolt replaced $$$) If you do use a shop press the adapters that come with kit could still be used. Cons Takes some time to find & set up adapters. Will need to add/buy a thrust bearing to make life a lot easier. I used a Nice 607/Snap-On ME11A7. There is also a YouTube video about this. OTC should make a PDF for the kit/instructions.

That's no joke...It may outweigh me.

That's what I do if I remember, if I forget & just exit the course it has always saved the info. Just think if it doesn't save the your work you just get more training

Anyone using a wheel bearing tool that lets you do them without pulling the knuckle, such as these? I actually borrowed the OTC one today & it seems to work pretty well https://www.otctools.com/products/otc-hub-grappler™ http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm Cheaper version of above tool http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1254

Disclaimer smoke from plastic can be toxic ....Be safe I had found that a solder gun with a flat tip works well for welding plastic pieces. I prefer to use the original material if possible. Let say you have a trim piece the broke one of the factory welds, if there is enough material remaining just heat it up, if not cut a non used ear off the piece and use for a filler rod. Also string trimmer string works great for a filler rod....FYI if repairing a DPF sensor port on a 6.4L it will only make it about 1/2 way through a Manual Regen befor it melts the string trimmer string filler

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/1027-95-f-450-73-oil-leak/?p=54046 The 96' I had to do the pieces were very corroded, I had to re-file the threads on the piece inside the pan. One diesel tech I know cleans everything up & fills the area with that oil pan RTV.

I sure could not prove the a/c compressor to be failing..no hot looking clutch or noise on engagement.

Well I guess time will tell...2 broken bolts on the same car seems like more then a coincidence to me but I tend to over think stuff I did discount the R.O. 1 hr. because I felt it should have lasted longer then 30K.

I removed the alt. & used a turbo socket from the back side to remove broken bolt. I got nothing as to why the bolt broke

I've got a 2007 Fusion 2.3L that broke the idler pulley bolt about 33,000 miles ago. At that time I replaced the belt,tensioner and the idler pulley with OE/Updated parts. I checked all the pulleys today,none of them seem to be locked up and the mounting boss seems to be fine. I see some complaints on the internet about this problem on the Ford side and the Mazda versions also. Anybody got any ideas besides just replacing the idler and moving on with life???

Did a 2011 oil separator today for an oil leak. I replaced the gaskets 50k ago, I wanted to replace the whole separator @ that time but it was 3 days away. About 12K later I was still seeing a small oil leak LR of engine was starting wonder if the VC gasket was leaking but it just seemed like the leak was from the CCV. So put dye in it & sure enough the separator was leaking on the firewall side seem. So after I got it off I pressure checked it & sure enough pinhole leak in the seam. Here is what I opted to do about the IQA label

Any oil filled vacuum system I have repaired has had damaged front hub seals that allowed water and dirt to get pulled into the system when the 4x4 hublock system is in use. The dirt gets into the pump and wrecks the seal. The pump is fed lube oil from the engine, as soon as the seal goes, it fills everything with oil. And so we learn...

I curious about replacing the pump for reasons like leaking oil into the vacuum system, ect.

2011 F-450 6.7 135k..Vacuum pump bolts loose causing an oil leak. Customer opted for updated vac pump instead of just replacing the gasket. Just curious if most techs have been just replacing the gasket or the pump in similar situations?

I had a '14 5.4L that had a complaint of hard start/runs rough, the FF pid was way off. I cleared the KAM and relearned the FF, vehicle has been fine since. Not sure if that's what going on with yours but I thought I would throw it out there. I also had one that had bad fuel, I burned a sample of fuel on a clean piece of steel & inspected what was left. If I remember what ever was in there didn't burn very well. Matt, since it looks like you are going to be doing gas drivability, GSB G0000017 & G0000079 might be helpful if you don't already know.