8WA Sman

I would start be unhooking the other 5 volt sensors one @ a time, think Ford DPFE with the metal case shorted to 5 volt ref. I would prob start with the cam & crank sensors. If you can't find any sensor issues back that terminal out of the PCM connector and recheck,it you have 5 volts on the PCM side and not the harness side, I would say bad PCM. Did you happen to notice if CEL came on in bulb check? If you end up needing a PCM let me know as I have a Mopar reman upstairs that did not fix one years ago that I would donate.(I now avoid some Mopar stuff like the plague, the Neon being @ the top of the list

Maybe this http://www.tigertruck.com/

If the rear mirrors the front and if I understand your test correctly...I would check the IC calibration data. Did the tech use PMI or As built? I am assuming if there was codes they would be posted.

GregH, all I can say is WOW! Keep up the great job. Brad, I would like to say my comment was not intended to be a personal judgement , so before I dig me hole any deeper, Sorry.

My opinion is some people should stop blaming there lack of money management or just plain lack of management in general on commodity prices and start taking responsibility for their life and there vehicle maintenence. It's quite possible a lot of the above problem's may have been available.Nothing against you Brad, it just seems sometimes too much of the norm today is about finding someone to blame instead just taking responsibility. I am not referring to the people that are actually doing everything they can to get by.

On a 97 there is two other places I would look both kick panels inside cab and the wire harness runs below drivers side frame. With that high of an amp draw the only thing that comes to mind is a short to ground. Also make sure the VSS pid reads the same as the speedo @ 74-76 mph.

1999 late build 7.3L surging idle, stalls, push on acceleration no response until suddenly it takes off and runs just fine. Only happens hot. Code P1211 & P0340.(Has junk Edge dash pod) Do I tell him just to carry a water tank with him or change the IPR. I opted to change the IPR.. Problem solved Then I could get back to What's Outside My Bay

I take the cylinder 8 contribution and delta readings are not because gray cam sensor? I also assume you checked for a chip/tuner on the P1211? Some techs use an injector kill box to find low volume misfires on 7.3's,not that I own a kill box.

The second wire is circuit 352 VREF from the PCM which may not be able to handle a load similar to the VREF circuit he dealing with on the TR sensor. I would also unhook the speed sensors to make sure they are not pulling this circuit down.

In the section 307-01B Transmission Connector Layouts it list this circuit as VPWR for TR Sensor, to me that should be 12 volts. PINPOINT TEST H : TR SENSOR test H4 states ford is looking for any voltage on this wire. If he jumpers that wire to start vehicle does he have OSS,ISS, & TSS. If all these and the TR sensor work only after jumping the LE111,then I would look @ + and - for the PCM or so type of start enable issue.

Have you tried by-passing the clutch pedal position switch. According to the EVTM I am looking @ the clutch switch is tied into a PCM VREF and a PCM Low REF.

I have not seen any evap cores plugged like this but the way I check evap cores for blockage is by watching the high side A/C pressure. With the A/C on and cabin fan on low note the high side pressure then crank the blower to high pressure should raise fairly quickly, then shut the vehicle off turn the key back on with blower on high, pressure should drop quickly. I possible everyone already knows this but just in case someone does not I thought I would throw it out there

Is the back window a slider? I have not ran across this on trucks this new but in the past when I have seen this it was from a rear window leak.