8WA Sman

Just curious what the injector fuel trims are now? I take the fuel table was cleared after the engine install.

Thanks for the info. I also see they have the PCM connector cover http://alliantpower.com/sites/alliantpower.com/files/managed-media/product-announcement/2014/npa_02-14_en.pdf for a 6.4, I have a customer that needs one.

If I have to drill a hole to extract a fastener I have had some good results with these http://store.snapon.com/Combination-Extractor-Sets-Extractor-Set-20-pcs--P630634.aspx I am not talking about Keith's broken fastener, that thing looks married. I have also used this http://store.snapon.com/Pencil-1-8-Collet-Blue-Point-174--Die-Grinder-Air-Pencil-Right-Angle-1-8-Collet-75-600-RPM--P643967.aspx to grind fasteners out or smooth up the fastener face so it drills/starts easier. Sometimes taking a flat punch and hitting the fastener will help it come out easier, if you notice when the fastener breaks sometimes that last thread gets stretched

I also use anti-seize,I just haven't been using it on this particular application. I was just curious if you had a specific reason. I also realize some situations/demographics require different types of repair procedures. I have found that Champion RX-454 Penetrant works well to speed up gasket surface cleaning process, whether I am using 3M scotch brite pads by hand or on my air sander. I feel it also greatly reduces surface finish wear.

I have been thinking about getting some X-tracalloy rods. I have heard some good stuff about them. Anyone have experience with these?

AC Delco PT2319 old style purple seal(7.3L ICP & EBP)..AC Delco PT1825 new style yellow seal, also fits GM ECT & TP sensors.

Looks like the Ford approved plastic scraper did an amazing job of cleaning up that cylinder head Do you always use anti-seize on those stainless studs or is that not what I am seeing?

X 2 on the norseman moly bits. I also really like this stuff http://orelube.com/products/liquids/

IRC if you think it is the fuel pump bleeding back pinch off the return @ the pump the see if it starts fine. You can also buy the fuel return hose @ the injectors in bulk, I still have some in my toolbox that I will probably never use

Customers employee told me the other day that the oil level must be fine because the gauge in the dash didn't show a problem and since it was a 6.4 the oil level was probably not low.

I used to pinch off brakes hoses years ago but I have since stopped doing it, some/most brake hoses have some type of inner layer that does not like being pinched. Have you checked your brake hoses when you have the pedal pushed down,one guess I have is that you are filling the outer layer of the hose, then when you release the pedal if it returns to the master cylinder. Option two is when the brake pedal pumped up the master cylinder to fill the caliper pistons it can over extend the master cylinder outside of its normal travel and scratch the piston seals. Ask me how I know, I always try to fill the caliper pistons back up with short pedal pumps. What normally do to see it the MC is the cause of the low pedal is block off the brake line ports with some plugs(brake line and fitting with the end soldered shut)

Just finished a 5.4 2 valve that had two broken exhaust manifold bolts, one was broke past flush, I will say gas supper duty's have all kinds of room to do manifolds. Most of the gas manifolds I have done have been 1/2 tons or vans. I have even done a 3 valve haft ton without removing the motor mounts,after seeing Alex's post I may remove the motor mounts on the next one. I also finally got the chance to drill with the Boelube stuff and man does that stuff work. Got an '05 escapee that the A/C compressor was noisy and it has metal and pulermized oil everywhere but the suction line back to the comp. I am going to try and flush the evaporator, everything else is getting replaced. It also looks like it has sealant in it, so this one will be fun. Waiting on a exhaust manifold to come in for a 4.7 Duds Durango, it also had 2 broken bolts and 1 was past flush.

Are you referring to the Michelin Man? Just kidding. I hope you are having a good day.

If they made it easy to reset the change oil minder people would just clear the message and never change the oil. Also if it was easy how would we know a speedy did the last quickie lube Maybe they should make so the reset cleared only after the oil plug is tighten properly or the correct oil is installed

Newest version(91.01) of IDS has the global view working again.

I assume draining the memory inside the PCM would not work. Like maybe disconnecting the PCM and jumpering the powers and grounds together would not work? Or maybe doing a PMI and then deleting that session and then plug in the as built data into the PCM.

What I have always done with Microsoft is I buy every other system. So I bought XP then windows 7, now I will not even consider buying anything until what ever they come out with next. So far it has saved me a lot of frustration. I know you wanted a touch screen and so did I, but I will just wait. My wireless mouse works just fine for me

Is this what your talking about http://www.nu-di.com/420-376.htm I didn't know these were available.

I used to hate doing ball joints years ago, until a tech I used to work with was saying how you can make good money doing ball joints. I would not buy an off brand ball joint press, I do however have a set of cheap adapters that I have been using for 10 years, and have had no problems with them. I would invest in a 2 lb. brass hammer if you don't have one. I use it for installing the vacuum seals so I don't mar up my installer & hitting on the end of press screw. Are these '05 and newer trucks or older stuff...? The seals and tool are totally different. I often get most of my seals and parts from Spicer, I also started stocking Spicer ball joint kits, as I have started to move away from the Moog greasable joints, not because I had problems.(Sometimes I just get tried of greasing shit)

Are you able to see the ASD relay, ignition sense, sync & maybe another 12 volt pid on the scan tool. SI states....The sensor return circuit provides a low electrical noise ground reference for all of the systems sensors. The sensor return circuit connects to internal ground circuits within the PCM . If you have no low Ref and all powers and grounds to PCM are good, I would load test them....Then I call bad PCM :hammer:

Tell 'em it need's a heart transplant and if you are going to do it the pay needs to be adjusted accordingly It's either that or FICM ship 'em

Does it go away when you kill any of the injectors?

I just noticed my IDS is doing the same thing I wonder if it has to do with version 90.04. Does anyone know how to roll back to another version? I am pretty sure I had version 90.02 installed when I worked on a '03 Expedition, whatever version I had installed I know I could view all modules and pull the part # for the cluster. I have a '11 6.7 that I am working on and if I log into PTS and go to the PC/ED it will show all modules but not from the IDS only screen. You can also see the map and part # by logging into PTS then go to Toolbox/Toolbox Home tab. So it looks like you my now have to be logged into PTS in order to see a global view of the network map?

Here is one of the cabin filters that I replaced on GM truck today. Just by replacing the filters I dropped the vent temp over 15 degrees and eliminated the rapid a/c compressor cycling. I would think that the above plugged evap core might have had similar symptoms but each HVAC design has different characteristics and have not ran into an '09 SD to know for sure.

So is there any reason for CAC hose clamp orientation other than so they don't rub on anything and are accessible. I always try to put everything back the way it was or is supposed to be, which is why I rarely make time on big jobs atleast until I have done quite a few. I doesn't help that I get to stop to take care of customers multiple times a day.