8WA Sman

Besides testing the battery, diagnosing a Corvette communication problem without the proper scan tool is almost like trying to work on a 6.7 with the Star tester

Thanks for confirming the fact that after the latest calibration the trucks may not shut down. The only difference the driver noticed on this vehicle was trans strategy under load. Thanks for also bringing up the fact that the EGT's have extended coverage, I was aware of that and gave that info to the customer. He opted to pay me to replace the sensor anyway. This is one of my better customers and a big contributor to the reason I can work out of the shop I do and have the tools to diagnose and fix his vehicles. I actually did the latest calibration a couple of weeks ago because of the 14E03 recall, I also did some other work that would have been under warranty. It's people like you, him, people on this site, and tons of other mentors that have helped me out over the years to get me to the point that I get play with my tools every day and most days I get paid for it. THANKS

Did a '11 6.7 EGT14 today. I take it the latest calibration is why this truck did not go into some type of shut down or idle only mode with that sensor reading 2.5 k?

Chad's truck is a XLT according to the Vin. If the wires are there for a VSM you may have to change some of the As built data to get the VSM to accept the programing for RKE. Did you try the key cycle steps in WSM (501-14) just for kicks to make sure it did not have RKE.

I take these http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=647705&PartNo=SRP2&group_id=676033&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all and spread that snap ring a couple of times to make that snap ring submit :hammer: .... then use my snap ring pliers to remove it.

I repaired my Snap-On MG725 it had a broken hammer piece, I also replaced three O-rings and one bearing. I decided to repair it myself since everything else inside looked fine. I found this video helpful I also purchased this service tray the other week and it works great it raises up and the top will rotate The other week I had a '99 SD with dual rear wheels, this is what I found works to remove the front hub extensions that are rusted to the hub

It's hard for me to tell much just by looking at the picture. I will say that Dexcool does not like air/oxygen, so coolant leaks or anything that lets excess oxygen in the cooling system makes plastic gasket frame deterioration worse. My 6.7 cooling system recommendation to my customers at this time is probably going to be to flush at around 100k/4 yr.

Maybe there is problem that is causing the evaporator to freeze up which can cause the compressor to get starved of oil.

It really depends on if there is any sealant or contaminated refrigerant in the system. Then make sure the reason for compressor failure is determined if possible. There is a TSB 09-076 for Honda CRV('04ish) that is pretty helpful. I would check for any metal or polymerized oil that has imbedded itself into the lines or hoses, if it has I would recommend replacing them. I would also replace the condenser if it has any debris in it, the pin hole passages in the new style condensers are next to impossible to clean out. I have more input if you like, send me a PM.

Why bring it in now there is still rotor vanes remaining

BC3Z-6710-B is the gasket for an '11 F-450...Brad, parts guy gets paid commission $12 gasket or $100 pan + bolts

I also use silicone dielectric grease, I try not get crazy with it. If someone knows of a problem with it I would be more then happy to use something else. I do however seem to remember something in the GDI class about not using silicone grease on the injector or fuel system O-rings????

Just curious if this info is in service information or where you learned this.

I would check base oil pressure then go from there. I can't think of a way cam phasers would be the cause of uneven cranking.

If you can't find any help here, call samsung. I have found them to be one of the most helpful cell phone companies, even if it's out of warranty.

Last week I replaced all the steel brake lines on an '01 Chevy Silverado. For those who don't already know GM sells a pre-bent brake line kit for these that includes all the lines except the one that run across the rear axle. There is also a step by step TSB on replacement.

This is news to me, I usually get these seals from Spicer(2017426) but at this new price I will be getting them from Ford. Thanks for the heads up.

That sucks...I am thinking if I got one that was that bad the heads are coming off.

This is news to me but my research suggests that Neapco is now Fords u-joint and driveshaft supplier http://www.neapco.com/nC-history.php I would also go with Spicer one, as you know if the seal fails it's all down hill from there. I have found this sight to be helpful,gives some good pics. https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs.htm

If the ford # is a 5C3Z-4635-AA the spicer life series will be a 5-1350x. If you notice the FCA will have a "1350" number on the screen somewhere that will be the u-joint series. I buy most of my u-joints from spicer. I also get my older super duty front axle stub shafts from spicer for qiute a bit less then Ford.

Every time I have had a belt with debris embedded in it, cleaning the debris out did not result in a long term fix. My theory is that if the belt material is soft it can allow this to happen again. I have also seen a noisy bearing cause shiny pieces to get in the belt, I think this is from the ball bearings or rust that builds up in the rotating assembly. I like to use silicone spray as a quick test to determine if FEAD noise is coming from the belt.

I was in VCT class today I noticed the instructor was running 94.02 on a SHO with no issues. I also tend to wait on updates as Brad does. Now that I think about it I tend to wait on most new stuff...let someone pay the learning tax

I don't know if this is actually the correct way to diagnose this code but what I did was overlay the FRP slope before and after to determine if I fixed the truck. Notice after I put the DFCM in my FRP slope angle is steeper. I used the code setting criteria from the Ford OBD-II manual on the code P228F which states : P228E, P228F: If the adaptation factor exceeds positive or negative thresholds which correspond to approximately a 20% deviation in the Rail Pressure Sensor slope, a DTC is set. After DFCM Please feel free to correct or comment on my diagnostic aproach

The 450 I had about a year ago got a DFCM for this code no problem since. I am starting to doubt my diagnoses now, mine had no drivability problems.

An old inner tie-rod end has the same thread size and works for driving out front hub assembly that are stuck. I prefer one that has a six sided spot to put a wrench on. Now for the Ram trucks with the AAM axle this tool is the way to go http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=646266&PartNo=DHP1&group_id=682401&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all