8WA Sman

In light of several different reasons I have decided to post some info on my experience with different scan tools that I use. I will try and stick with the facts and leave my opinion out . One of my favorite question I used to get from some of my customers was...,."Don't you have one of those tools you plug and it just tells you what's wrong". Since a big portion of my customers are construction workers, my response goes like this " Don't you have one of those sky tracks that puts the shingles on for you". This question usually brings a blank stare . That is when I say "No" but I bet in makes it a heck of lot easier To me scan tools are really not much different then any other tool in my box...Just a tool. Since I have two OE level scan tools and several AM scan tools, I pick the weapon I feel is best suited for the adventure. Example 1: GM gasser, Customers complaint is poor acceleration, basically poor trans kick down. I think it had lean codes but I didn't document that. After reman MAF Example 2: '09 Ford 5.4L 3 valve. This is also how I diag the new Ford universal O2 sensor, Engine must be bone cold in order for this to work. Take it for what it's worth since this is not found in the Ford PPT. Tool of choice IDS After reflash/TSB only applies if it has both P0130 & P0150 Example 3: '91 Ford 5.0L Truck had intermittent cuts out/stall. Fix was ignition stator/pick up. With this tool I can go back and pull up pids that I may have not been watching when the problem happened. It also has unlimited frames it can store. Example 4: 6.4L Had a dead mis and lot of other weird symptoms that I will spare the details on. Fix for grocery list of codes including PCM codes, was in my opinion to install PCM cover/lock and add contact enhancer to terminals. Fix for mis was to install a UVCH. One of the best things I like about OE scan tools is the freeze frame data. Check out what happened to the FF for code P060C Example 5: Is not even a scan tool but that does not make it any less valuable. DSO capture of a bad Ford coil, #8 is the bad one. Example 6: '06 Ford van brought in from another shop after they replaced all 8 injectors and did #5 three times. Had a code P0205. It would trip the injector fault pid to yes, the shop that brought the van knew this. What I found was it would only mis in forward and not reverse. Fix was repair wires @ EGR tube. I even installed a fabricated bracket so it does not happen again After I told shop that the injector control wire was shorting out to the EGR tube, his question was "So did your Ford scan tool tell you that".... I guess the engineers forget the Pid that says " wire shorted to EGR tube or W_SHRTD_2 EGR AND that brings me to my final point....The best tool and the one that brings all the tools together is on your shoulder. Enjoy the adventure

It's possible that it is listed in SI because doesn't the SD info cover to 450?

I can't speak for other demographics but in my area if someone went to an AG dealer and was willing to learn,excellent at diagnostics and A/C work they would always have a job. I have heard of a lot of parts hangers leaving automotive for AG work but it's only a matter of time before that gig will run out it the AG industry. IMO

My guess is that your larger tire modification my fall under the ESC law (FMVSS 126)of '12. That is if it is 10 k or under. If I had the As Built data from two like vehicles, one with 20" and one with 18" tires I may be able to adjust the data but if anyone asks I would have nothing but blank stare.

Looks like Ford only sells the main engine harness DC3Z-12B637-B. Just think than you will have a lot of pigtails to sell or test connectors for testing.

Haven't found a Ford part # yet but this would definitely work http://www.cableorganizer.com/high-temperature-insulation/ This is also were I get my heat shrink http://www.cableorganizer.com/high-flow-adhesive-heat-shrink-tubing/?gcssku=NSPA-HST542C-48

GM uses something similar on one of their engines, I am drawing a blank right now I should have a chance later on today to do some more digging.....If you put a GM part # on a Ford warranty claim.....

Last 8 of Vin & base number of sensor would make it easier for me to try and find it with FCA. Looking @ the 6.7 coffee table book, the EP sensor RR of engine, that just looks like some split loom with shiny tape.

Does a 6.4 run quite with the EGR stuck open like a 6.0 ?

Great post Matt. Gonna take me some time to digest it but I don't plan on going anywhere.

So was the IAT2 only used as part of the EGR flow monitor/test on early 6.0 with no MAF?

I also have an OTC press, on the one I did I could not figure out how to press in the new one. My adapters that I used were too tall to fit in my press, so I just used an adapter and a bearing along with the threads on the joint to pull it into place. IIRC the main problem was my short adapter similar to the one Brad has one top was about the same size as the crimp on the ball joint and I didn't think I should press there.

The plastic washer tank is to protect it from shorting out to anything....else

I downloaded 92.01 and it worked fine as far as I know. Since we are on the topic when ever my IDS sees a big download it will not let my proceed without downloading why is that or what setting do I need to change.

As an administrator can you just move the post?I would also like to add that I talked to one of the owners of the local welding shop, he is one of my bigger customers and he said that they do keep those 7018 rods in an oven when they are using them for structural welding. He also said that the 7018 rods are more picky about the distance they are held away from the weld, so I will be swapping some out for some 6011 rods.

I am finding out that the 7018 rods should be kept in an oven(even though nobody that I know does), that may be the causing the splatter problem with the one's I have. Since I am just using them for extractions and not structural welding they will be just fine.

7018 1/8" but I am going to swap some of them for some 6011 rods. When first borrowed one of these little suite case welders I think I used a 6011 rod, what ever rod it was had less splatter.

I have never used a TIG welder but I will say I prefer my new welder(for extractions) over the MIG welders I have used. One I am able to set it up within minutes,I can stand all the way back in the fender well and I don't have to look around my welding head,I can also bend the rod if I need.

'03 5.4 2valve - two broken exhaust manifold studs. I got to use my new welder(Miller Maxstar 150 S) and BigWalt's tip about using a flat chisel on an air hammer to knock the studs loose before trying to remove them. They both worked great.

My was on a S-10 after I torqued the rockers down, I decided I would go back and recheck the torque...Same thing no compression The two jobs that have take the cake as far as dumb moves are... A 4.6L local police cruiser that I did a tune-up on, the ones where the big plastic underhood cover would make the accelerator pedal stick if not installed correctly. Yeah well the gas pedal stuck and I had cars in front of me, so just put it in N, then I coasted to a stop, popped the hood and unstuck the accelerator BUT when I went to back up I had no reverse....I guess when I put if into neutral I must have went to far....Let just trans was toasted ++++ boss was not too happy Other job was my first 3.8L head gasket recall. Got the car all back together went for a test drive and about 3 miles out oil light starts to flicker then comes on solid. Get car towed back to the dealership.. pull the oil pan and I find a million pieces of cotton....I guess the shop rags that I put in the valley of the engine never got removed and the balance shaft did a fine job of shredding them into more pieces the I cared to count as was cleaning them out. Engine ended up being just fine after the pieces were cleaned out. Lets just say on both of these jobs I probably would have ended up @ the bar had I been old enough

I have found this interchange to be really helpful http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/12390319/chicagorawhide-34928.html#application

If this is a 4x4 and you talking about a front wheel bearing, I just got a Motorcraft HUB-11 in yesterday that the inner needle bearing was seized to the cage, probably because it was not greased from the factory. I was reminded of an old guy I used to work with, who told me to always check over parts before installing them. Heck he would plasti gauge reman engines before he installed them

Yesterday my '94 F-150 finally got the driver's window motor pucks replaced, the window almost wouldn't even stay up anymore. I almost forgot how to do those, my daughter had fun helping all the same.

My bad, I guess I took that to be the same as neutralizing the engine and exhaust. I would think a balance shaft issue would be 2x engine RPM's?What does the MP_LRN pid read or what would happen if the KAM was cleared and then recheck power balance and RC? I will say I do not like trying to make an engine that is running like crap relearn crank variation, so clearing the KAM may not be a good idea.

When our Windstar had a vibration after a reman trans install, it was RPM dependent. It would do it in forward or reverse, running it on the hoist made no difference. Putting in another reman trans solved the problem, which I am certain was in the torque converter. My guess on yours is an issue with a motor mount, check the rear engine one. Did you happen to try jacking around on the engine and see if the vibration changes?