8WA Sman

I got a new pocket light http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NV6FDLG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3/192-9260514-3032104?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1145MGQ3K9M76CK2HS54&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_i=B00GOP89S0 in today to replace my Streamlight Microstream. Let's just say it is quite a bit brighter then the stream light and only about a 1/4" longer.

Too much grease in the grease gun

Last week I had a '04 V-10 with a very intermittent stalls/no start. It had a P0231(Fuel pump secondary circuit low/this test fails if the PCM commands the fuel pump ON and B+ voltage is not detected on the FPM circuit)So basically this is diagnosed by watching the PCM FP monitor PID. Well of course this truck would not act up on me and I went through the PPT and "NPF". Fuel pump pattern and relay apply current looked fine on my DSO. So time to do little research I found a post from Jim Warman http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/4041-07-expedition-p0231/?hl=p0231 that opened my eyes and will be added to my diagnostic approach tool box. So using this new found info I cleared the codes and KOER I pulled the wire to the IFS I get a P0232,I trip the IFS and same thing P0232. So I think it is safe to say the problem on this vehicle is some where else. I pull the PCM relay and get no codes, well probably a P1000 but the P1000 was still in there from me clearing the codes. I pull the fuel pump fuse and I get a P0231, I found no problem with the FP fuse or terminals. At this point I am pretty confident that pulling the back cover off the CJB is not going to be a waste on my time And now I have found the problem, the circuit board mounted fuel pump relay has a burnt leg

Was the crankcase overfull again? I am looking for the compression specs and have not came up with anything concrete but I am thinking "1.6L" and 190-195 PSI just seems like a lot. Timing off? or better yet timing advanced???? I would think if there was an issue with the VCT it would set a code. Sorry in advance if I am leading you down a rabbit hole

This is what I found http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?64436-FIPL-sensor I have no idea how accurate it is???? As for using the Star Tester, I have very little experience using it, the one memory I have of it is my shop foreman @ the dealership exploding the rear air bags on a town car because he forgot to STOP the air ride test or what ever it was called

Here is the revised one just in case anyone cares. PTS_Technical_Requirements_10_2014.pdf And the one from Motorcraft MC_Technical_Requirements.pdf

Looks like the thumb is up just in case the owner needs a ride....more kid friendly then the middle finger

I take it TSB 12-06-08 and 09-16-08 have been done or do not apply...my guess is "No" since you have a DPF sensor performance code. Did you check the cab pull connector C110 @ the LF fender terminal pin fit or terminal. What is the FF on the P2453, going down the road, hot or cold....?

Was the banana included

I tried tap magic on the first one I did, I found that for me it did not work that well. Here is how the use of a cutting compound was explained to me....depending on the material being drilled the lube can cause the surface to not get warm enough to get a good bite/cut. Now when it comes to tapping or chasing a hole my thinking is heat is not your friend.(just my opinion & I know how "Opinions" can be ) If the bigger bit had a had a flatter angle then the 1/8" bits that could explain the way they worked. I know the small bits I had re-sharpened worked better then new because the guy I had sharpen them changed the angle. I am not sure what he changed the angle to, I pay him to sharpen them since machining is not really my skill set. Here is an interesting article I came across http://www.gun-tests.com/special_reports/accessories/american-gunsmith-tools-techniques-drill-bit-machining1430-1.html#.VMptFp3nbIU

Matt I have had to drill those hardened SS 6.4 bolts. Mine was on a broken exhaust manifold bolt, I was going through several bits new and re-sharpened, then the owner of the truck came out and drilled it in like 2 minutes with one bit. In my defense the owner has a big machine/fab shop.I learned a valuable lesson about feed pressure and drill speed. On SS the bit has to bite every turn or you are just surface hardening. I have since invested in norseman moly bits and boelube. I also have some carbide tipped bits

For those that don't have the teflon seal installer (211-D027 or D90P-3515-A). What I use is the bottom part of a plastic funnel.

Like this one http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5429-whats-in-your-bay-part-v/page-14?do=findComment&comment=54496

Looks like they installed a piston and valve Delete

That's one way to make it difficult for your competition

I have seen Ford place a core charge on a plastic window regulator. Here is my take on a core charge on a non re-buildable part...Cash Flow. A couple of ways this generates cash flow is in the form of basically a 0% loan....the core charge is paid for by the dealer or WD, it may be months before the OE has the pay back the core charge. (2) If the core is not returned or not returned correctly... it is free money.

Let me guess you forgot your torque wrench was still set for the Super Duty ball joints

Any codes? Just out of curiosity have you tried to reinstall the As built data before replacing the SJB or are you doing a PMI when you install the new SJB? Are extra ambulance lights hooked up to the auxiliary circuits?

I don't know of a posted interval. In my experience the 2 valve 5.4L will leak oil from a head gasket, burn oil because of valve guide wear, or break a valve spring before the timing chain has a problem.

I didn't know a GM fuel pump would ever last this long,'97 gasser with 188k. I am replacing the original fuel pump & sender assembly, I am also replacing the front tank strap, fuel pump almost outlasted the strap

I forget about the fact that I also found a grease gun coupler that does not leak http://locknlube.com/ I have been using it for 6 months and it works great. I also comes with a extra seal/rebuild kit.

I have been thinking about some of the useful tools and technique I have picked up in the time I have been working on vehicles.(I am still young so don't expect to be too amazed ) I am hoping to learn some NEW info for the techs on here, not that I haven't already learned a ton of stuff . Most of the ones I am going to post about have to do with getting the job done without having someone's help, since most of the time I work by myself. Let's say I have a suspension/steering component loose, I have found that a long bar clamp pinched on the tire with the bar piece turned toward the inside of the vehicle can work great for this. Something I wish I would have got a long time ago is this https://www.tkcomfg.com/pedal-pumper.html to bleed brakes. I know there is other ways to bleed brakes but I am a visual type. I also use it to diag caliper or brake hose problem or other things pertaining to the hydraulic side of a brake system. I have an air regulator on mine so I can control the force. I have also used it to tap the accelerator pedal on some engine noises but you have to be careful when doing this. Speaking of brakes for those who may not already know this...If a rear caliper has to be replaced, after I remove the rear caliper I then push and hold the brake pedal down past the first inch of travel and this will shut off the fluid flow to rear so when the hose/line is removed there will be no brake fluid mess. Beats buying those hose block off kits from the tool man. I really like these tire hangers http://www.shinnfuamerica.com/ProductDetails/Omega/100LBWheelArm/92100/1772 so I don't have to pick tires off the floor. I didn't mount mine solid so I can move them around, they actually fit nicely in my rotary hoist arm angle plate. My latest tool tip just happened just this week. I was looking for a rear pinion flange holding tool and I discovered that Mitsubishi has a end yoke tool that should be the same as the Rotunda tool 205-126(T78P-4851-A) that I picked up from the Mitsubishi dealer tool web site https://mitsubishi.service-solutions.com/Detail/355/MB990767-01-END-YOKE-HOLDER

I should probably buy the set, I made my own one day when I was in a pinch.

Buddy_M If I was to use a 16lb hammer I would have put weights in my shoes to keep me on the ground. :hammer: My light also has a LED bulbs. batmantech I did get the rotor off. Now I am in the process of replacing the rear pinion seal and flange. Well Ford had the bright idea to update the nut and crush sleeve. Well the outer pinion bearing was stuck to the pinion shaft and the amount of force needed to remove it was more then I would have liked, so now I am also replacing the outer bearing and race. This truck is being a pain.

'06 F-150 doing several things on it but the rear rotors of all things were really being a pain. The right side I was able to get off by taping two holes into the rotor and using flat puller. The left side pulled my threads out so I called another tech that works on tractors and used their puller. Lets just say one of the reasons why I don't work on heavy stuff is because I would get tired just carrying the tools. I originally had the trans jack there so when the rotor came loose I would NOT end up with puller on my toe. I ended up lowering the vehicle and putting a strap around the puller. I had to use my long snap-on breaker bar to get it to pop loose, I thought I was going to break something. I will check the axle shaft flange for runout tomorrow. If anyone else has had one come off this hard I would take some hints. Reminds me of the 97-99 F series front rotors that I have had to cut off in the past.