dieseldoc

This should probably be in the 6.0 forum but since we are talking about coolant flow meters. Has anybody tried to test water pump pressure on a 6.0? I have a service truck truck in the fleet(05 F-550 auto, 130,000 miles) The fan runs quite frequently sometimes only for a few seconds and sometimes for minutes at a time. I havent had time to look into it at all yet. I have read about many cavitated front covers here. I would think if there is a way to measure water pump pressure it would be a good way to find a cavitated cover, just a thought. I works well for us on cat engines. I have found two broken water pump shafts and a plugged oil cooler by checking water pump pressure. Would be nice if it woould work on these engines. Thoughts?

As long as we are talking about SEIC. I know I saw an article back in 05 or 06 that told you exactly what to do to wire the truck to idle up to 1200 with the flip of an upfitter switch. Now that I need it I cant find it. Anybody remember where to find it. I have read throught the articles at the fleet ford site and cant find what I am looking for. It was a really easy letter to follow, told you what wires to use and what resistor to use for the rpm you would you like. Thanks for the help guys. I will have to read through when I have more time I am sure I missed it.

I didnt know you could upgrade to the two speed. I will have to keep that in mind. They are a pain til you find a couple tricks for that cover. I looked for one too and havent found anything yet either.

That would be great if there was something that worked on those. I dont know how many of them I have had to wreck the cover to get them apart. I had a customer freak on me about a week ago when I broke that cover to get it apart. He wouldnt even give me time to explain that it comes in the rebuild kit. He ran to the service manager right away. I still like the older style horton hubs. Those were gravy to rebuild. Any idea where to get Termin-8r from other than horton?

How did your air leak turn out keith?

If you can hear the leak you should be able to find it. Get your squirt bottle out with water and a bit of dish soap in it. Start spraying the area you hear the leak coming from. If you cant hear the leak it will be almost impossible to find. I wouldnt worry too much about 30psi over night, that is a seriously slow leak. However if the customer is concerned I guess you have to go looking. The general common areas on trucks I have found are at the air dryer purge valves, and my nemesis push together air fittings. I hate those cheap plastic things. They may cost a bit more but a good old brass ferrule fitting is so much better. What engine is in the truck Keith, also what air dryer is on it? Trucks with Cummins engines have a turbo cut-off valve that can cause some wierd issues. Good luck

Thank you Josh that is exactly what I was looking for. THIS SITE IS FREAKIN AWESOME!!!!! I will call my parts man today get a price. My poor 96 has about had it and is in desperate need of one of these kits.

I know we have discussed these before on here but cant find it. I am looking for a part# as well as ball park price and what is in the kit? I talked to my parts guy today, he is great but having trouble with this one. He said they dont offer a kit you have to piece meal it together. Thanks guys

We have one at our dealership. It to is an air pulse style unit with a vacuum in it I believe. Sounds like a muffled shotgun every minute or so. We have had good luck with it so far. We have not had any really nasty DPF's yet though.

I am with you on the drill doctor. I have tried one and just dont think it works that well. The best drill bit sharpener I have found is Jim, he is one of our welders. That guy can cut a drill bit off to make it fit than sharpen the end of it and it has a better cutting edge than any new drill bit you could ever buy. I have tried to learn this craft and just cant get them as good as he does. Practice makes perfect though. Jim has been sharpening drill bits probably longer than I have been alive. I have a set of Irwin bits that I really like but you cant drill a pilot hole or you snap the little tip on the end off than it wont cut at all. I too have a set of snap-on thunder bits that I use more often than not.

According to the coffee table book the lobe was eliminated in the 99 and up. To bad about the heads being different. This can of worms is most likely best left unopened. I have a correct 7.3 core at my shop, My best bet may be to offer a good deal on that engine and buy the one he just picked up. A buddy of mine has 02 with alot of miles that will need this engine sooner rather than later. I am glad I asked this question I have learned alot about these elusive powder metal rods. You would think there would be mention of it in the coffee table book or information only tsb or something. Especially if the powder metal rods are a fractured rod.

I hear ya keith... He came to me with hard starting issue a while back. I checked it all out and found it is just plain wore out. It has 250,000 very hard miles if you know what I mean. The compression is vey low, the blow-by is very high, it consumes about a gallon of oil in 3,000 miles, the injectors are original and I am sure just plain shot. The topper on the cake is the air cleaner lid update was never done. I am sort of surprised it has made it as long as it has. This particualr customer is not a big maintenance guy. I asked him when the last time the oil and fuel filters had been changed response "i dunno" the sticker says 14,000 miles and a year ago. That sounds about right. I digress, I told him it was overhaul time. I explained the options and gave prices for each(this was three months ago). He calls me up and says guess what I have an engine for my pick-up can you put it in? Ugggh..........

Had a customer ask me today if the newer 7.3 came with powdered metal rods. I honestly had to tell him I did not know for sure. However I was reading through the coffee table books and can not find mention of it anywhere. Anybody know for sure? Another theoretical question here. Customer has a 95 f350 with a 7.3 that is ready for overhaul. He got excited and bought an engine off of craigslist or something. The engine only has 20,000 miles on it and he wants to put this engine in the truck and came to me to put it in. Here is where it gets interesting folks, the engine is out of an 02 f-250. I know the injectors, low pressure fuel system, turbo, HEUI pump, cam is different. Will the base engine(block, crank, pistons, rods, heads) etc work? My thought is the block wont work unless we put an electric transfer pump on it. Or did he make a big oops. I really wish he had talked to me first before he shelled out 3500 bucks for this motor. Thanks for the opinions guys

What a Fantastic waste of perfectly good vehicles and parts. How does a guy with ideas like that get elected president anyway. Why destroy them? Have them sent to a dismantling yard and sell the parts to people that still that vintage of vehicle that needs parts, and try to make some of the money back they have thrown away in the last year.

I dont remember what it was, but it was from chemistry class. Some type of measurement I think. Chemistry wasnt my strong suit, I was more of a auto shop welding class kind of guy.

Thanks brad that is what I thought but couldnt remember for sure. I might be able to get one cheap on an auction type of deal and it would be great for a project I am working on. However if it was CAN would make things more difficult. I think I will throw a bid in and see what happens.

I am curious about the early 03 model year that had 7.3 engines. Did they have the CAN system or did the CAN system start mid year when the 6.0 came in the trucks?

We have seen that in our shop only one time as well. Our store came up with a test kit to bypass the turbo drain line during blow-by tests on the dyno. I dont remember for sure how it works since I havent used it in a while. We had another store in our company with an air compressor that caused a similar issue. If I recall correctly another dealer down south somewhere overhauled the engine for oil consumption. It came in to us with the same concern. 2 gallons of oil was found in the air tanks and the air drier was full of oil as well.

We went through situation similar to this last fall at my shop. The tool guys were peddling the handheld electric screwdrivers and lots of people bought one. I have one and it is great for dash work, etc. However they have a fair amount of power almost too much power for the things it is intended for. We had several techs using them to put the wiring retainers on the fuel injectors and snapping the screws off. Well the solenoid is a non-serviceable part and requires injector replacement to repair. Needless to say after the second one the boss was mad... after the third one we were told anyone caught using on the inj. retainer screws will be sent home for the day with NO pay. It would sure be nice if every body had common sense.

"Life gives us so many oppurtunities to...to be kind- to be faithful-to be truthful- to be complete assholes..." HAHAHAHAHA. . . . . That quote is great jim. I am going to remember that statement. I would imagine a bear can do some serious damage to more than just the seat.

I am with you on the bio-diesel jim. I think it is maybe a good alternative fuel just not yet. My experience so far is that it is very hard on fuel systems, constantly plugs fuel filters. And whatever you do dont get near the truck with your ice cream cone because your tank will turn to jelly at once. All of the fuel pumps at the stations here have signs stuck to them in about october to april stating "this station is not responsible for the performance of bio-diesel in cold weather"

I have seen that twice before. One word MICE!!!!!! I had a no start truck that came to me one time. The owner was gone for a year and the truck was in storage. I started poking around and found the valley full of the hood insulation and dog food and 5 dead baby mice. They decided to chew through the wiring for the IPR valve and ICP sensor. I HATE rodents. Our Ag dept. had a tractor that had all kinds of fault codes. Tech pulls the floor mat and panels out and sees a major harness all eaten up. He found the offender a 10lb woodchuck.

I have made a practice to never use the customers diagnosis. I always troubleshoot and diagnose myself, even if it was done by another guy in my shop. You never know what might have been overlooked, missed. Sometimes even just a different persons perspective can make sure that nothing is missed. I take it there is no "kit" or parts list available for this particualar job? I have a great parts guy at my local ford dealer, I am sure he has looked this stuff up before. But never the less, I am assuming you will need and EGR cooler, oil cooler, and all associated gaskets and seals. Anything a guy wouldnt think of you should get, replace, or do while you are there? This is my first time this deep into a 6.0 so all suggestions welcome. I plan to follow the WSM this time around. However hints and tips appreciated. I love this site, even though I lack the experience with this engine. I know there is tons of help just a few key strokes away. Thanks again guys

I have a customer that needs a set of coolers so he says. 05 f250 6.0 auto. Truck is using coolant he took it to the local dealer and they told him it needed an egr cooler and oil cooler. The truck is out of warranty and he does not want to pay the dealer for this repair. Wondering what you guys are charging for labor time on a customer pay. I have not had the pleasure of doing one of these yet so any tips are appreciated. Thanks a bunch guys.

Housing pretty expensive there? I didnt see many apartments there, but I guess I didnt drive around riverton a lot. Mostly lander. Is there other diesel shops in the area? I have heavy truck experience and wouldn't mind getting back to that either.