dieseldoc

Ok guys got a quick question here about a few of the parts that come in gasket kit. This is my first time replacing and egr cooler, and so far going well. In the bag with the gaskets and seals is three bolts with spacers, one torx head screw, and and M8 bolt. My question is where do they go, I am assuming they are updated parts or for fasteners that need to be replaced. The only issue is I cant find mention of it in the WSM or the other info I have available. I would guess it says in one of the many TSBs out, I unfortunately do not have access to them. My philosophy is if it comes in the kit than replace/install it. Your experience and wisdom much appeciated, thanks.

I had egr valve trouble in my 06' the first 15,000 miles and I was using the Ford fuel additive. I read about the stanadyne additive at my local fuel shop while waiting for my parts, I than heard Bruce and a few of the other guys raving about stanadyne here on the site. I went out and bought a few of the "one shot" bottles and tried it. I found my mileage improved a little, and it started a bit quicker. I now buy the gallon jugs and pour them into the "one shot" bottles. I now have close to 50,000 miles on the truck and not one egr valve problem since I switched to stanadyne. I would pay three times as much for the stanadyne, absolutely the best product I have ever used.

When trim files (IQA) was explained to me is that there is a standard, and the ECM knows what the standard is. Every injector is tested at the factory and compared to the standard and assigned a trim file based on its position from the standard. The trim file tell the ecm where each injector is from the standard and the ecm can than adjust itself accordingly. Jim you are exactly right that it is for emission purposes and not idle stability or smooth running.

I am assuming the IQA(injector quantity adjustment) is the same as our trim files(in CAT world). In our older engines the trim code was a four digit code stamped on the injector, our newer engines actually have a file we need to download off sis web and than download into the ecm. In both cases I have either forgotten to program the code or did not have the correct file saved to download, and there was no noticeable difference in how it ran. When did IQA start with ford,6.4?

you can build a cut-out box pretty easy and cheaply. The hardest part is locating the square 40 pin connector for the engine harness. I have had my box built for about a year now I just havent been able to locate the connector yet. I bought a plastic pencil box and eight toggle switches(rated for 120v)and a couple spools of red and black wire. I drilled the holes in the top of the box for the switches and hole in the side for the wiring to exit. Solder a few connectors on and heat shrink. Attach the wires to the switches and labeled them for each cylinder. Ran the wiring out and covered it in loom. Now as soon as I can locate that dastardly connector I will be in business. As far as the knock goes is it a fuel knock or a deep pounding type of knock? Has it had an injector replaced lately where a cackle injector got installed in the wrong cylinder by accident? I have seen where low fuel pressure can cause a fuel knock.

Actually Bruce after much digging my parts guy found me the pin with bout 4 inches of wire attached. I will have to look and see if i can find the part number.

they are a real communist bastard to get out. I have only removed the down pipe when I had the trans out to install a solid flywheel/clutch kit. Once I had the pipe out I installed a round down pipe. I dont know that there is enough room to get it out with the trans in without cutting it. If you are able to get it out in one piece with the trans in let us know how. I tried for about two hours one time to get the pipe out without removing the trans, at that point I was so pissed off that I just pulled the trans, they come out fairly quickly. GOOD LUCK!!!

I think 209 is still kind of high. The tech driving the truck, and the dealer are satisfied that it is ok. Some day when I have some time I think I might do some troubleshooting of my own and see if we cant get the temp down where it belongs and make sure the sensors are reading correctly. Thanks for all the ideas guys, I appreciate it.

Tech that drives it had pulled the cooling stack apart, blew it out and than pressure washed it recently. Service manager opted to send it next door because we are really busy at the shop. They replaced the thermostat and said now it will only get to 209. Will give it a try and see how it does. Thanks for all the thoughts on the issue guys. If it doesnt fix it will try to measure coolant flow.

Hey guys I am working on a 05 F550 with a 6.0 and torqueshift. This truck has succumb to pretty much every common 6.0 problem that has ever existed several times. Had a new engine installed 60,000 miles ago and a set of head gaskets probably less than 10,000 miles ago. Now that we have some background here is the concern. The engine fan runs very often, even when it should not need to run. For ex. outside air temp is -15F with a 10mph head wind, with wind chills about -30F(no winterfront). The fan will turn on full speed and run for up to a minute, and do this every 5 minutes or so. I hooked up the scan tool and monitored while the other tech with me was driving. The engine oil and coolant temp differential is about 7 degrees. The thing I found interesting is that the engine oil temp is running around 220 degrees and the coolant temp is about 215-222 degrees. This seems very warm to me, I would think it should run around 200. I am wondering if we have a front cover that is cavitated and causing the water pump to be inefficient. Has anybody ever measured water pump pressure on a 6.0 before, is this a worthwhile test? Or is a guy better off to just remove the water pump. We have blown out the cooling package with air and than pressure washed. The coolant is a 50/50 mix that tests at -35 and the SCA is ok. According to the information I have been able to find regarding the fan(in the workshop manual, PCED, and bruces book) everything is correct. I have driven another truck like it the only difference is that it is an 06'under the same conditions and the fan never ran once that day. The operator also told me that he hardly ever heard the fan for the first 30-40,000 miles and it has been running more often and longer as time goes on. Sorry for the long post guys but wanted to give all the information that I have. Thanks

I really hope that it is better with the new proline connector. The old connectors were a pain in the ass with dodge. I never was able to get it to work correctly. Thank god I only have two dodges to deal with. I just got my new proline connector in the mail on friday. I tried to program the proline unlock code, and it told me I need to update my subscription(which I knew and forgot to tell them when I called). So have to call tomorrow and get the update code. I have been very satisfied with my AE tool. The only thing I didnt like is that I am kind of limited when it comes to 6.0s, which sounds like they are working on.

could check with your cat dealer. Our shop has a dpf cleaner, however not all dpf will work with our cleaner. We had a guy with a dodge out of warranty and his dpf was plugged and he needed a new one. He did not want to pay the 1,000 dollars for the new one so wanted to know if we could clean it. However the end caps are welded on, and there was no way it could be cleaned in our machine. The machines are extremely expensive for cleaning dpf's but I too am surprised that there is not more places with the equipment.

I was just on the 2011 superduty website and they show a truck that is set up a lot like our trucks. From what I could see anyway. I got some word about service bodies on the new chassis. I guess it was a problem with the IMT dominator bodies that we use. Because they hug the frame pretty tight giving us lots of compartment space. When we first checked into it there was not an option or kit to relocate the SCR tank and piping. They now offer a relocation kit and IMT has made a few modifications to there bodies as well so it is now possible.

I too have parused his site to see what kind of bad info he is peddling now. For 100 dollars he will allow you to access his video where he will show you how to replace your own head gaskets. For that 100 dollars you get ONLY 30 days access to it. That is pretty expensive to have a guy show you how to hack your pick-up. Myabe I should put an ad out and for 50 bucks I will tell you how to fix your leaking egr cooler, the answer two bottles of barrs stop leak. ROFL!!!!!!!

In all the years as a truck mechanic I have never seen a coolant filter come apart. I am not saying it couldnt happen. If you ask me Ford should be installing coolant filters from the factor. My 06 had casting sand stuck in the thermostat twice. In fact when you looked in the degas bottle you could see it in the bottom. I flushed the system twice and installed a coolant filter. I havent had anymore thermostat troubles since than. Just food for thought.

About 2 years ago I overhauled a 7.3 in a 94 f250 for my buddy. I was putting it back in, and things were going awesome, the tranny splined right up and nothing got in the way. It was the easiest install I had ever done yet. UNTIL....I went to put the trans mounting bolts in and couldnt figure out why the dowel pins wer so long, how come the trans isnt going in all the way?.......Son of a bitch there leaned against the bench is the adapter plate for the starter, you know that 1 inch thick chunk of a aluminum. Needless to say out it came. GRRRRR!!!! And of course it did not go in as easy as it had the first time.

A 6TS has only a cam sensor located in the side of the front cover. Timing calibration on a one sensor engine like this can only be performed with the timing probe installed and ET or ECAP. Are the battery connections clean and tight, fuses ok and in place, Batteries have a good charge(sounds obvious, but has bit me in the ass before). There is sometimes a ground stud on the left side of the cylinder head, some trucks use this stud and some do not. if your engine has this be sure it is clean and tight.Is there any fault codes active? Is the cam gear timed and backlash set correctly(a tooth off one way or the other can cause grief).This engine should use a 126-8481 shim with the timing sensor. However if the the slip head of the sensor is black and has a flat face DO NOT use the shim. The procedure is to remove the sensor and be sure that the cam gear is in a position that one of the valleys of the "tone ring" is not at the opening for the sensor. Look in the hole with the sensor removed and slowly turn the engine over, you will see what I mean. May not be a bad idea to make a few revolutions to make sure things look ok, nothing wobbling or dings in the gear. Using a small screwdriver pull the slipper head of the sensor all the way out. Thread the sensor in and torque to 30 ft/lbs(snug it up). Remove the sensor being sure not to bump the slipper head upon removal. Install the shim and than install the the sensor and torque it. Connect the electrical connector. If the slipper head is too far away it will not read a signal. Using you multimeter you can check for voltage, ground, and signal at the sensor Pin A of the sensor connector should be 12.5V+/_1V(this is not batt voltage, it is generated and controlled by the ecm), Pin B is the common(ground), and Pin C is signal. With the key on measure from pin A to pin B: result should be 12.5 volts+/- 1 V. OK? next measure from pin B to pin C(using the DC scale capable of more than 20V). With the key on/not cranking the voltage should be less than 2V or more than 10V, while cranking the voltage should be between 2V and 9V. If adjusting the sensor, and these checks come out ok. You will now need to get into the ecm connector. If we get to this point things can be confusing with out a pin-out diagram and wiring schematic. I tried to copy and paste them to this but it does not appear to be working. You can send me a pm, I will print them and fax it to you if you like. Good luck

It is a 7.3, and with so few miles on it since overhaul. I am going to just run it. I always use OEM parts when it comes to glow plug systems. The extra expense is worth not having to mess with it again in 6 months. With the chassis I am putting it in, there is LOTS of room to work on it. In the event there is an issue. Thanks for the input guys

The engine was overhauled 20,000 miles before I got the truck it was in. The engine ran really well, sounded good and did not smoke much at all except when you got on it. The only thing that scared me about this engine(before the compression test), was the glow plug module failed and the guy was starting it with a bit of ether all the time. I pulled the engine because the truck was a pile of junk and I needed the transmission. I should probably pop the heads off anyway just to make sure he didnt do any unseen damage to anything.

The engine has been sitting on the shop floor for 3-4 years(capped and sealed up). I have a home for it but it needs to be resealed. I put oil in and filter on it and cranked it with a remote start switch on the floor several times for 30 seconds. I than did a compression test and have well over 400 psi in each cylinder and they are all within 5-10 psi of each other. I have stripped it to everything but pulling the heads for reseal. Once I got the exhaust manifolds off there was a fair amount of oil in the exhaust ports. I am thinking that odds are once it runs a while they will seal up.....However they came in the gasket kit, and I would prefer to do it now while it is convenient on the stand. Instead of after it is in chassis. Am just wondering if it is worth the effort....If you guys have had no troubles with them I maybe should take the chance. The engine is going into my personal 62 f-250, so it is not the end of the world if it is still an issue once it runs awhile.

I know our older 3406A and early 3406B engines among lots of others used in heavy equipment have used Jacket Water After Coolers with great success. I am pretty sure we had fairly little trouble with them. When they were popular I wasnt even old enough to pick up a wrench, but the ones that have come in while I have been wrenching have had little trouble. They would occassionally fail or leak but all in all pretty good. Our JWAC were plumbed into the engine block to circulate coolant. In fact I am working on a 97 model year cummins 5.9 in a sprayer right now with a JWAC.

Anybody done valve stem seals with the heads still on the engine? I am assuming that if you put the piston at tdc and use the valve spring compressor in the tool kit, it shouldnt be to big of a deal. Never done seals with the heads still on before. Any tips or tricks are much appreciated, thanks guys.

Well Hello mike and welcome to the DTS!!! I didnt know anybody from next door was on here, I have looked several times. It is not the opinion of Butler. It is my opinion, I did not have a good experience several years ago when I wanted to purchase a new super-duty, and that has soured me a bit. I should have stated and clarified that it was my opinion. I apolagize and reading back now at the thread, I see where I should have chose words a little more carefully. I did not intend for this to offend anyone or be taken the wrong way. I dont have my own service truck so I dont get to bring trucks to you guys real often. Nobody likes inconvenience, and it tends to upset you and impact your day. Everybody handles their inconveniences, and stress differently. I apolagize for any comments made toward you guys in service or your dealership, Was having a rough day and venting. Hope there is no hard feelings, Just wish I have more time to check more often so I could have clarified for you what was meant.

It is kind of scary that you only turn the engine oil drain valve a 1/4 to drain the oil. I know when we drive in fields around here to get to machines, and there is plenty of debris that could come up and open it. Oil patch trucks I'm sure could also suffer from this same type of thing.

I am not a fan of spending unnecessary money. But it seems to me the customer has sort of answered your question as well. For peace of mind to both of you, you may want to consider the short block and a head. At this point he has warranty on the bottom end and head, as well as it cant bite you in the ass 3 months from now. However at the same token, if you cant catch a nail on it and it is not a large area..... you could probably get away with assembling and may never see the truck for a problem with this again. The key here is to find out what the root cause of the mark is. In the event that what is causing the marking is still there or an issue, that is going to make the marking worse. Pictures are worth a thousand words in situations like this. My prefference in this type of situation is to make a reccomendation of the repair that has the least chance of failure(short block replacement, and head). Than let the customer decide. Always be sure to note that the customer made this choice in your service report, and be sure to date it and put a time on it. I always want to do the best thing for my customer and give them best repair that I can without completely emptying there wallet. But you have to look out for your best interest as well. If the patch doesnt work out he will tell everyone he knows how the dealership couldnt fix his truck. if it works odds are he will tell no one that you saved him money and fixed his truck well.