mchan68

Mine was #3 and #6 on the Transit. And here's another funny joke. On that repair, the only other part that was charged out on the work order, other than the long block itself and two jugs of coolant, was a right side turbo oil supply/drain tube assembly which could not be reused due to kink damage caused by the rod when it ejected through the block. Yesterday, my parts manager told me Ford wanted the part back.

What are you guys using, for oil changes on Transits and F-Series for oil changes now, now that Mobil 5W40 Synthetic is discontinued from Ford? On F-Series, this might not be a big deal, since the WSM lists 0W40, 5W40, 10W30 and 15W40 as acceptable for use under varying conditions. But on Transits, the WSM calls for 5W40 only. I see that 0W40 is the only synthetic diesel oil available from Ford now. Does that mean we should be using this on Transits, and on F-Series trucks where customers specifically request synthetic?

On my own truck, I've been running 5W40 synthetic since new. Would making the switch to 0W40 hurt (or help)?

Evaporator to condenser line.

I just finished an engine replacement on a '17 Transit with all of 1120 kilometers on it, when it arrived on the hook with cylinder #3 rod shattered, leaving pieces of piston and the wrist pin in the sump. This too, was a 3.5 Eco engine. I couldn't believe I was asked to submit pictures before being approved for a long block. Also not in a big hurry to do another engine replacement on one of these Transits again.

Brake cleaner kills bugs pretty effectively too.

https://youtu.be/NPmzYpeUtNY

I'm wondering if there will be a similar fix for 6.7L trucks?

Mine has always "cackled" when I accelerate. And I've been running Mobil Delvac 5W40 synthetic, changed every 3000 miles (5000 kms.) since new. I use the PM-22 and PM-23 with every other fill up. If there's anything I should be doing differently I'm open to suggestions.

You mean PM-23 along with PM-22?

Okay WHEW!!! You had me thinking I made a poor choice buying my '16. I know the '15 and up engines use a different HPFP and injectors as far as I know.

What is the model year of that one?

Did I read this correctly guys? Those of you so inclined, please go look up SLTS times for a 2013 F-550 6.7L for a coolant flush, more specifically labor op code MBASIC17. I'm still wondering if I read that correctly.

I've got two here now with this dreaded code. One that went into idle only mode. The other, about to go into speed limit mode. The one in idle only mode has already had an SCR catalyst replaced awhile back, and has now returned less than a week later. The other cleared by itself about a month ago. Both are 2014 F-250 trucks. Both are out of coverage for the exhaust emissions. What has been the most successful repair for you guys? The pinpoint tests for this code is ridiculous.

This is worse than the service advisor that upsells and charges the customer for a power steering flush on a vehicle equipped with EPAS.

Maintenance #1 on 2016 Ford Focus

Odd, I just had my first truck that needed its second scr system, luckily still under warranty. Both times for p207f and black smoke on wot. 

What was the engine hour count versus mileage?

Those of you who happen to get one of these new generation 3.5L Ecoboost equipped F-150s in your bay for an oil change beware. Ford, in their infinite wisdom have changed up the oil pan design to the same plastic style with the quarter turn drain plugs (a la 2011 6.7L and current 2.7L/3.0L engines), pointing to the right side. Our apprentice had one come in for its first oil change. As you all know already, the exit rate of the hot engine oil is very extreme on these, requiring a lot of caution upon removal. Well, since the plug on these applications is pointed to the right side of the vehicle, our apprentice removed the plug underestimating the rate of oil exit, and splashed oil all over the customer's right front brake caliper and rim. So for future reference, it may be wise to have a piece of cardboard at the ready to deflect the oil toward the drainer, as you drain it, so as to avoid the huge mess that was made.

Well, I managed to to perform a manual regen with it, clear SCR tables and clear the P207F itself. I'm now having issues trying to get it to exit the forced idle mode. I sat there trying to keep it between 2000 to 2500 RPMs and get seem to get EGT 1_4 to increase any higher than 402*F before my right foot almost fell asleep and I gave up. Makes me want to priate an old accelerator pedal (if I can get my hands on one) and gut the spring out of it to construct a "tool" dedicated exclusively for this purpose.

It's an F-250. The owner plows with it...

Well folks, my 2014 F-250 is back again with the dreaded P207F yet again. This vehicle already had the SCR replaced at 38354 miles (3058 hours, 1037 idle hours) on November of 2015. Now it's back yet again, this time at 57306 miles (4868 hours, 1708 idle hours). Pinpoint test step RD24 can't really be done, because the engine is in idle only mode, and the fuel level is at less than an 1/8 of a tank. But NOx12 PID indicates 134 ppm with the engine at operating temperature at idle, after passing pinpoint test steps RD21 and RD23. Just curious if anyone has ever had a 2nd SCR system failure?

I just replaced my first DPF on one of these. For those of you interested, I have compiled a parts list to save you guys the headache of having to look up these parts yourself, should you ever have the pleasure of having to replace one. By the way, the subframe doesn't need to be removed as the workshop manual directs you to. Only the front engine support brace and right side engine mount needs to be removed, to give you the clearance needed to finesse the whole assembly out. Here's the list:

CK4Z-5H270-A           DPF/Oxidation Catalyst Assembly (SBS)

CK4Z-9450-A             Gasket (DPF to SCR Catalyst)

CK4Z-9450-B             Gasket (Turbo to DPF)

CK4Z-9P761-A           DPFP 1_2 Nipple

CK4Z-9P761-B           DPFP 1_1 Nipple

AC3Z-5J213-C           EGT 1_1

CK4Z-12B591-B        EGT 1_2

CK4Z-9B593-B          Fuel Vaporizer Glow Plug

CK4Z-9D378-C         NOx Sensor

-W520514-S440        Turbo to DPF Nuts (3 required)

-W710382-S900        DPF to SCR Catalyst Bolts (2 required)

Those interested, feel free to make this post a sticky.

 

I can't get the torque converter out of the pump in the conventional manner.

Care to explain?

 

I'm curious too.

It's too convenient to walk to parts and get oil for 10% over cost.

 

Fluids are always cheaper than engine parts is my theory. I was running 10W30 when I had my '07 6.0L used the same way as my current ride. But with this new ride, it's the normal regens (which occur about once every tank of fuel consumed for me) that 'scare' me into running the 5W40 synthetic. What now 'scares' me is Ford's new spec of CK-4 oil not being acceptable. I hope production of the current Delvac 5W40 CJ-4 oil will remain on the market for years to come. Failing that, I'm not sure what oil to switch to.

I've been doing oil changes on my '16 every 3000 miles. The hour intervals accumulated between changes with my use seem to average about 120 hours. I've been running Mobil Delvac Synthetic 5W40 since new. And I use it as a 'car'. Am I going Overkill on Maintenance?

Only makes me wonder why they bother putting dual mass flywheels into vehicles in the first place. I've replaced way more than my share of them, when they were used in the old body style 7.3 trucks. We just replaced one yesterday on a V6 Mustang for a vibration at idle.