mchan68

Are we talking the later style two bolt starter, or the larger earlier style three bolt starter? The reason I ask is because if it's the later style two bolt starter, believe it or not it IS possible to mistakenly install it in the incorrect orientation that will result in the starter drive just spinning and not engaging the flexplate. Don't ask me how I know!!!

Well, I have yet another one that I've been requested to order a short block in for. Short block arrived, but the gaskets needed are no stock anywhere and no ETA.

Issue a service message and/or TSB but have no parts available for such a repair.

Vehicle has now sat for a month and counting....

Personally. I haven't heard too much good feedback on either the factory standard shocks nor the Rancho shocks on trucks equipped with the FX4 packages. I've also heard some good feedback with Fox brand shocks, but I've also heard they are astronomically priced too.

I can't really answer that one with any real objectivity Keith. All I know is, I have just over 62000 miles on my 2016 F-250 diesel. I'll be planning on replacing my factory shocks with the blue and yellow Bilsteins on all fours very shortly. I'll probably be replacing them at the same time as I replace my original Michelin AT2s with M/S2s on my factory 20s. Once all that is done, I expect I'll have a substantial improvement in ride quality. Until then, I won't know.

3 hours ago, Keith Browning said:

 

The truck: 2015 350 4X4 6.2L, 10,000 GVW package, Plow Package and trailer tow package. I wonder why it rides like a dump truck.

You just answered your own question right there. These trucks aren't supposed to ride like Cadillacs to begin with. Add in the suspension package required for its intended purpose and ride quality is only further diminished.

How about whether or not, it's equipped with a snow plow package suspension? The sensation you describe is exactly the way I felt, when I road tested a 5.4L 3-valve equipped F-250. Every bump whether slight or large was bone jarring to put it mildly.

10 hours ago, cbriggs said:

Just a thought Mike, when it won't start does it fire and stall, or not fire at all? If the LPFP fails to run at key on they will usually fire a bit, or run for a few seconds and then die.

It fails to start at all. No stalling, sputtering or running rough, just fail to restart. But once you active command fuel pump ON (get the fuel pump running), it starts and restarts right way with further issue until.....

Hi guys. I have an interesting, yet frustrating one here. A 2017 F-550 tow truck. Unit has about 125,000 kms (78,000 miles) with high hours. Complaint is a no-start with P2291 set. I have managed to determine the cause to be the low pressure pump not delivering fuel. My first dig at this, I managed to pinpoint the cause to a faulty FPDM (by swapping a known good one from another 2018 F-550). The truck went back into service without further issue for about two to weeks. The second time, same thing happened. This time I disconnected to connector on top of the fuel pump (C3127) to check for B+ at pin #4 with the fuel pump commanded ON. This checked good. Reconnected the fuel pump connector and the truck fired up! After several successful restart attempts I sent it on its way. Well, one week later it's back with the same symptom. Check for B+ again at C3127, this time I get only 9 volts. Command the fuel pump ON and it gets back up to B+ voltage and guess what? It starts again! This time, I tried wiggle checking the harness at the fuel pump connector and around, unable to get this truck to react or quit. Drove it around and life is good again. I just got a call again, from the customer informing me it won't start yet again! Just looking through the wiring diagram, I see that fuel pump control involves only the PCM, the BCM, the non-serviceable relay in the BJB, the FPDM (already replaced) and finally the fuel pump (in-tank). Is there anything else I should be checking? I should also mention in each of all instances, the truck was shut off and would not restart. It never just died on them. I'm at a loss at this point.

Nope. But I do happen to remember the module had a very burned smell to it, when I removed it.

Replacing NOx11 module fixed it.

The first clue to this was by unplugging both NOx11 and NOx12 modules. After I did that, I immediately noticed the glow plug indicator light now illuminated at KOEO (when it didn't previously). After noticing that, I plugged back in NOx12, and still got the indicator at KOEO. Plugging back in NOx11 put it back to what it was doing before. So I "borrowed" the NOx11 module from my own truck to install temporarily, and by doing so was able to clear U0074 as well as bring GPCM, NOx11 and NOx12 back alive on the network. I was also finally able to get the glow plug monitoring system KOER self-test to complete and pass.

Thanks for the help. Live and learn.

24 minutes ago, tonybullitt said:

Modified?

Nope.

Okay, this is a very interesting one. Unit is a 2014 F-550 tow truck 232K kms and high hours. Vehicle has had a drop in long block replaced about 6K kms ago. This DTC U0074 is a hard fault. Someone else just replaced the GPCM in an attempt to repair. I check it out. Go through the pinpoint test 'AF'. Seems to check out okay. The one thing I notice, all the circuit checks are contained within the 12A581 harness which includes the BJB as well connectors to both the driver side and passenger side interior connections. Finally got the harness replaced. The DTC is still present.🤬

I have ran a network test both, before and after harness replacement. And both times, the GPCM, NOx11 and NOx12 fail. The glow plugs indicator does not illuminate at KOEO or initial startup. But when I run the self-test, all the warning indicators including the glow plugs illuminate, so it is definitely confirmed that there's an with this system. I've even borrowed the GPCM out of my own truck to try, in order to rule out a faulty new GPCM.

Running out of ideas. What are the chances of the PCM being the culprit for this mess? Do any of you guys have any suggestions?

ECT2 at 140F and EOT at 82.4F?

Is this a Ford/Motorcraft replacement EGR valve, or a crappy Made in China white box or Dorman part? I've had a couple passing through lately needing EGR valves that customers have taken them because the part is either no longer available, or no ETA on the part.

All the ones I've been getting, have gotten long blocked to avoid this exact scenario. Have you read the SSM by Ford claiming that the cylinder heads they've had returned, had nothing wrong with them?

MAF sensor and/or circuit good?

Try a known good VGT?

Let's see a show of hands now. What has been the final repair for these 1.5 Fusions and Escapes coming in for coolant loss?

Really??? Where did you hear this?

Has anyone ever had this tube leaking coolant before, after doing this recall? Funny thing is, I only looosened this tube without actually removing it from the housing in order to gain access to removal of the larger tube in front of it.

4 hours ago, Keith Browning said:

Guess which side? (only explanation I can think as to how this happens)

 

Passenger side???

Someone else went a little brutal on reinstalling the standpipe during a previous injector replacement, or other on that bank in which rail removal was necessary? I know it is pretty tight with that evaporator housing there.

How ironic. I'm just in the middle of replacing that very harness on a 2018 F-250 6.7L with all of 2000 miles on the clock. 

2 hours ago, tonybullitt said:

Got an 04 e series ambulance with 4x4 conversion for head gaskets and bed plate gaskets

I've only done two so far, and the main bother for me is how messy the job gets with coolant exiting at a very high rate. There doesn't seem to be any clean, mess free way of draining coolant. The secondary bother is working blind, especially when trying to start the inner exhaust to cooler bolt taking care not to strip it.