mchan68

How many of you guys get only the warranty work, while the small "garages" get the retail work. I had one truck that was "fluffed off" to us from a "garage". As soon as I quoted eight injectors RETAIL, due to being filled with gasoline, the "garage" came and took the truck. Just now, I heard that they are STILL in the process of replacing the eight injectors!!! I heard that they are doing it by REMOVING the engine (on an '06 E-350)ROFLMAO

Don't know if this helps, but I had an '05 F-series that kept coming in repeatedly for complaints of intermittents stalls while driving. No DTCs other than the usual 2614 & 2617. Upon the third visit for the same concern, I was finally able to duplicate the symptom while wiggling the main injector harness by the FICM. I didn't even bother looking for the source of the failure. I simply replaced the injector harness which fixed it. For about $90.00 RETAIL for the harness, I'm not going to spend all day looking for shorts and opens when I can replace a harness within an hour, if I KNOW it's going to fix the problem. Even the main 12B637 engine harness now retails for about $300.00 believe it or not.

On a side note.... can anyone tell me why, when I flash a stick shift truck, why does the IDS reflash the TCM?

 

I think it's almost the same reason why the IDS prompts you to remove the FICM relay when reflashing gasoline powered cars, or why the pop-up window appears on '06 and up vehicles, asking if it is equipped with IVD even if no such option exists on the vehicle you're attempting to boot it up to.

Well, I got my first oil cooler failure on an '04 E-450 cubevan that puked oil into the cooling sytem. Got it all apart. That rad is pretty stopped up. What is the procedure you guys use to flush out the system with again? I vaguely recall Cascade dishwasher tablets being mentioned at some point. With 70,000 kms., it's out of basic warranty, but still with DIT warranty. What labor ops. do you guys claim for this repair? 6642A at 7.0 hrs. and DO NOT use with 9456A or 9424A seems a little low to me. Can I use any 6005 labor ops. since it's not in for any driveability symptoms? The information I got was that the rad hose blew off. Something gives me this awful feeling I'm going to see this truck back for an engine failure in the not-too-distant future. Thanks in advance.

Got my very first '08 in for a complaint of of smoke coming out the tailpipe, in-cab vent registers, and underhood area. Unit has about 4,000 kms. Ran KOEO and KOER tests. NO DTCs. Coolant level good, fuel quality good, engine oil level good. Closer inspection revealed black soot from the low pressure turbo outlet on the right/rear of engine compartment. Traced exhaust leak to this location. Anyone run into this yet?

I have done A LOT of EGR coolers on E-Series vehicles, and I have yet to see to need to lift the body on one. Even the last one I did where I replaced both EGR and oil coolers didn't go too bad. I find it easiest to remove the radiator/condensor/CAC AS ONE UNIT. Doing that alone, increases access that much more. If replacing only the EGR cooler, it can be removed WITHOUT removing the intake.

Why don't just make the 3.9L Cummins engine an option in the F-150? You know, the ones that are used in the F-250/F-350 trucks in the South Americas (they call them the F-100 or F-4000)?

i am trying to find a 4.5 to install in my ranger when the 4.0 takes a shit. although, it has lasted 125k ROUGH miles, we shall see.

 

 

 

either that, or drop a 6.0 in my fox body /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

How about a 6.0L in a Crown Vic? You think it will fit?

OH YES, I can relate VERY well. I have TWO so far, that match the said description. One that buys trucks, and then soaks Ford warranty for as much as he can possible, and then sells it. Another one, who brings his '03 F-350 in for warranty 6.0L work, but has his own "mechanic" that does brakes and other stuff. How does that one grab you? NOBODY in the dealer I'm at, wants to touch 6.0Ls or trucks with a 20 foot pole. Kinda sucks when I don't get the retail work though.

Just curious. On an average gasoline powered car, typically the charge is 1.0 to diag. and 0.3 to 0.5 to replace the battery. And the alternator varies depending on vehicle application. What about on 6.0L to do batteries? What do you guys charge? Especially E-Series vans that are NOT cubevans where they are exposed. How about the alternators?

Thank you to everyone who posted!!! Truck is now fixed. NOW, the story comes out. After checking OASIS, I noticed part number 4C3Z-9B246-A charged out TWICE on two different Repair Order lines from another dealer that did a "repair" about 5,000 kms. ago (while it was still within DIT warranty). But neither the bracket nor a new STC fitting was on the truck when I opened it up. Thank you Bruce for the picture in the last posting. I spoke to Coldline, and they advised me to disconnect the FICM, and crank the engine over to build ICP pressure with the covers removed. Did as instructed, and sure enough once ICP approached the magic 500, BOOF!!!! All I got was a huge cloud of crap in my face (the turbo and y-pipe was not installed). But the truck is fixed!!! Speaking of DIT warranty, has anyone heard of "DieselCare"? Supposedly, owners of 6.0L and 6.4L can now purchase an extended warranty that will cover up to 300,000 kms. (don't know what it is in miles) with two packages available. One carries a $100 deductible per visit. The other carries $0 deductible per visit depending on the package purchased.

Well, swapped rail and standpipe that I "borrowed" from a buddy of mine at another dealer. Guess what? SAME DEAL. And yes, I checked the dummy rail plug lower o-ring. The last one I had was a torn o-ring. So, what's left injector(s)? The part that is killing me, is that there is NOTHING visually wrong with all four on the bank. To compound matters, this truck is for sale right now. Someone I spoke to mentioned the possibility of one, or more injectors stuck on "exhaust". Anyone heard of this, or ran into this before?

Well guys, I removed the HPOP cover and retested. Sure enough, the STC fitting had a good sizable leak. Replace STC as well as update reinforcement bracket (4C3Z-9B246-A). No more leak from STC fitting. HOWEVER, I still have a leak coming from bank #1 hugh pressure oil rail!!! Four of us in the shop couldn't pinpoint the exact location of the leak. It definitely sounds loudest on the underside of the rail. Stopped off at a buddy of mine, at another dealer to "borrow" another standpipe and high pressure oil of another '05 to try tomorrow. I repeat, ALL circlips on the tops of all four injectors appear intact. Is there ANY possibility of bad injector(s) still? Is it possible for the body of the injector(s) to be leaking? It seems unlikely the high pressure oil rail itself is bad. Again, I checked ALL gallery plugs INCLUDING the end plugs that someone posted. Running out of ideas!!!

I'm not making the funds my problem. It's just that this truck is owned by the husband of our appointment co-ordinator. He is also "drinking buddies" with our SM. I personally don't give a rat's ass about how much it will cost him to fix it, as long as it's fixed, and I get paid PROPERLY. Anybody else, I wouldn't care, I would just charge through the roof. Do you know of any labour time guides that can be accessed online that lists times for retail repairs to 6.0L? Our Mitchell book is ancient and only goes up to 2002 model years. I want something to throw in this guy's face if he bitches about the cost.

I have the rail out. I removed all the gallery plugs except of the end plugs. I will probably be doing that on Tuesday first thing in the morning. The standpipe, dummy standpipe block-off, and the other gallery plug o-rings all look good, as do all four injectors on that bank. Something gives me this awful feeling it's going to be something expensive, like the pump itself, or the branch tube.

The last one I had, was coming from this exact same location. It was a broken o-ring. ICP cranking pressure on that one was about 200 to 300 PSI. I got the right side high pressure oil rail out today, removed all the oil gallery plugs. All look okay. I inspected all four injectors on that bank. All appear to be intact. What gives? Should I start removing the HPOP cover to see if in fact the STC fitting is blown off? At 60 to 70 PSI ICP pressure, it SHOULD be a very obvious leak. Being out of warranty, I playing with limited funds here.

Helping a guy out on one that was towed in for a no-start. I advised him to replace all eight injector o-rings and an IPR valve. The truck now starts fine, but blows a lot of smoke even when warm. I went over to this place after work, and ran some self-tests. Injector Buzz Test: PASS. KOER On-Demand: PASS. KOER Cylinder Contribution Test: P02** codes for cyl. #1 and cyl. #2. I advised the guy to drive the truck home to see if the smoke clears. What do think? O-rings improperly installed? Or mechanical base engine issues. IPR duty cycle was 15 to 16% before repair (it was started with "love juice"). IPR duty cycle now at 13% at hot soak, after repair. Shouldn't it be between 9 to 11? Any possibility of a bad injector(s), even though it passes the buzz test? I don't have a 7.3L injector tester at my dealer.

Well guys, I got one in on a Friday afternoon, highest ICP pressure will go is 60 to 70ish PSI. Air tested, the wonderful sound of hissing from the oil fill. Pulled the air inlet, and saw some oil fumes, and a heard a minor hiss (not as loud as right bank). From your experience, what would be the most likely source? High pressure oil rail? STC fitting? Injector top? Branch Tube (please, please, PLEASE don't let it be). The guy that owns this truck is the husband of our appointment co-ordinator, who also happens to hate my guts for reasons I can't decipher. Apparently he just had an IPR replaced at another dealer. At 163,000 kms. and out of warranty, that doesn't matters.

If I read right, yoou say it's a '95 F-Super Duty? Those ones are relatively easy to pull the engine out of. You don't even need to remove the turbo, like you would on '99 to '02 trucks with the cab on. Being a manual transmission though, I would remove the transmission first though. Some have even advised doing it with the engine IN. I've never had the pleasure of doing it this method though. I usually remove the engine, clean the block off THOROUGHLY, and install the new pan with silicone DRY (no oil), and leave to cure properly overnight.

I just had one about a month ago on an '04 King Ranch that hydrolocked the engine and did something funky to cylinders #3 & #5. Upon teardown, the EGR cooler was soaked as well as the turbo, as others already posted. Ended up replacing a long block as well as cooler for that one.

I have one that is giving me some issues with surging on acceleration. Got P0299, P0470 and P0472. Monitor PIDs and the only ones out of spec is the EBP intermittently indicating 6 to 12 PSI. KOEO reading is 14.7 (normal). Tried to run IDS EGR test, first attempt failed, flagging the EBP. Second attempt passes.

That's exactly the way I do it. I was just wondering if there was a better way, but apparently not.

Have you tried monitoring ICP PIDs using the block-off tools? What's your ICP readings while cranking, after hot soak? If you manage to get it started after blocking off the high pressure oil supply to the one head, THAT'S where the problem is, which a set of injector o-rings to that bank will fix. How is your low pressure oil supply? Did you pull the oil pressure sender to verify oil level in the high pressure oil supply? Sorry for more questions than answers, but I think I've covered pretty much where your problem is by the sounds of it. Hope this helps.

ANOTHER case of RTFM

Since we're on the topic for neat 6.0L tricks, here are MY gripes.

 

-'03 F-Series turbo hold-down bolt on the BACK side of turbo

 

-removing the turbo from E-series. Is there a "special" technique to getting them out WITHOUT lots of fighting? How about the oil filter supply/return lines? They always seem to be in the way. I've found the easiest way to remove it, is to remove the drain tube FIRST, and then the turbo. But I'm open to other suggestions.

 

-return line from secondary water separator. How do you crack loose the 13/16" fitting nut WITHOUT the 7/8" turning in the process? I can't my 7/8" wrench in there properly. I don't like having to remove the four Torx screws and the fuel pressure regulator pieces out (too many small pieces that can be dropped into unwanted places easily!!!). Even more a pain in the ass on E-series.

 

-turbo up-pipes on F-series. NUFF said!!!

 

-access to the front engine mount bolts on E-series when removing for access to valve cover(s) removal.

 

-bottom row TX-30 bolts on high pressure oil rail on E-series.