Alex Bruene

That's what we do. But, when other dealer techs are taking this attitude... From INFORD "*** as far as the DPF VS. Delete conversation. I agree the enviroment is important and should always be a concern but when customers come in with cash and ask for deletes and chips I'm not about to turn down the work. It's kind of a love hate relationship in that sense "

For those of you who hate replacing right side exhaust manifolds on 3V engines, I've found a better (a.k.a. faster) way to replace them. As it turns out, if you don't heat the nuts, and manage to take the nuts and studs out of the head together, you can remove the manifold without removing the engine mount. Done this on the last 2 that I've done, at it's worked great. All you need to do is move the A/C compressor out of the way, remove the starter and inner fender and unbolt the y-pipe from the right manifold only. The manifold will fit out between the mount and the head (only if the studs came out with the nuts-which they seem to do every time.... Put the new (tapered) nuts on the new studs, slip the manifold and gaskets in place and put on the studs/nuts. The tapered nuts will hold until the stud is bottomed, then they'll tighten up. And, if you've already figured this out, I just wasted 3 minutes.

I'm thinking back a few years to an incident at The Monkey House (back to when 6.4s were brand new). One of their users gutted his DPF-it was fine at first, but then went into a constant regeneration.

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure I've seen them in excess of 7000 psi when dead headed. It's been a long time since I've had to do it.

Yes... And no... It should fall on both. The companies that build and sell the product have for far too long been hiding behind the "offroad use only" clause. They know the products are being used on road, and they are doing little (if anything) to ensure the product is being used "offroad". The onus should fall on the supplier AND end user. JHMO.

It might have a result similar to "whiskey-dick".

My penis has no wallet. It would just cause trouble.

Who's paying?

Take the pins out of the hard-shell, route the wiring, then reassemble the connector.

I wonder if one day we'll be reading about Bill Hewitt being fined for advertising and installing this shit...

I seem to think it's normal too.

<------------------- Straight from his book!

I have a 15K Rotary. Trouble free since it was installed, other than a few adjustments from time to time., the only complaint is that it's a bit bulky for cab removals on regular cabs... Steer clear of the 12K Rotary... Isn't quite up to the task.

Yes. You're right, Bruce. When ever people start telling me that 6.0s are such shit, I always reply by saying your 6.0 is only as good as the people working on it. I can't think of too many people that service their 6.0s at my dealership that will say they are shit. It's garages like the one in my rant that makes people think 6.0s are shit.

...is what I've heard is the motto of one of our local "competitors". Last week, we had a customer remove his 6.0 bus from said to remain unnamed independent repair facility after an ongoing recent history of issues they haven't been able to fix... An old customer that used to be a customer of ours who got suckered in to going elsewhere to save a few dollars... Now, the bus lands on my doorstep. No big deal. Happens all the time, right? So, the ongoing issues are with starting problems. Turns out they've replaced 3 "faulty" IPRs in the previous week, an injector, HPOP, LPOP, oil cooler and the list goes on. Now, I got it because of the ongoing IPR "failures" and a slight misfire. The first thing I notice is that there is an awful ticking noise coming from the top of the engine... I know what the noise is. Heard it more times I the past year that I care to remember, so I take a look around... I see there is also a new front cover installed... So, I still know what is going on, but just to be sure, I asked said to remain unnamed independent repair facility to bring me the old parts. Upon inspection, there is a distinct imprint of a needle bearing on the oil pump gears. Now, I stop any diagnosis, and I break the bad news to the customer... My recommendation (due to the mileage-and the fact that this has been going on for so long that there is likely no lobe left on the cam) is to install a long block... Customer come to see what is going on, and loses his mind! "I just spent $5000 at said to remain unnamed independent repair facility, and now you're telling me I need an engine? This engine is such a piece of shit! All I do is spend thousands upon thousands of dollars on this piece of shit!"... I said, "Sorry, I wish there was something I could do, but to tell you the truth, when I see something has gone through the low pressure oil pump, I don't go too much further until I can verify what it is/was... and in this case, it was very clear to me"... That's just one of many stories that come out of this particular garage... We see all sorts of beauties. One poor guy spent nearly $1000 on diagnosis, then they sent him to the dealership to replace a fuel injector because they are not equipped to replace Econoline fuel injectors. Another guy came in with new headgaskets, for us to tell him he needs an EGR cooler... And so on, and so on, and so on... but what I don't understand, is that after all is said and done, THESE PEOPLE END UP GOING BACK TO THAT SAME FUCKING GARAGE! WHY?

Aggravating! Talk about a biased rant! And, I call BS on that whole story.

Hey. Wassup? I just tried to comment on that video, but I don't it'll get through.

You know what they say... If the Mayans were so good at predicting the future, there'd still be Mayans.

It sure is a fancy looking thing. I just keep a few new 10mm sockets on hand, that I use for nothing other than 6.4 turbo bolts (until they get a bit worn, then they go in the normal rotation)... Along with a 3" wobble extension. The bolts will come out, or break, but they never strip.

Last full day on Earth! Make the best of it.

On the topic of studs, and I don't mean to hijack this thread... I was in a seminar a few weeks ago that was put on by a couple of Blue Diamond/Navistar guys... It was a maintenance and repair course for 6.0 and 6.4 engines specifically. One of the participants brought up a question about using head studs-and one of the Navistar guys said not to use them, because the blocks are not strong enough to handle the extra torque loads. Agree, or disagree?

I always access the top nuts, heat them with a small torch and gun the bolts off. I don't even try to take the bolts out any other way.

I think this is a good opportunity to let your warranty administrator and service manager take over, and just step back and watch from the side lines.

I didn't say that...