jimmy57

When I installed kits back in 91-93 there were pump adjustments the instructions had you make. I couldn't find anything I had saved but I found this and it is what the Hypermax kits of the time had you do. I think a little more than one hex key flat is what I remember giving good results without getting too much smoke before boost built up.

http://members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/Injection%20pump%20adjustment%20article.htm

How do us lowly XLT owners get that to display on our message center?

Post it note.

I guess the reason 3/4 ton diesel pickups rent for so much is now explained.

Make sure you have no fuel in oil. I had a cracked head kick my butt. The fuel smell was not obvious to me or a few others that smell tested it. An oil change fixed the problem for about thousand miles and also the oil level increased.

Just a scary thought for the day: 6.9/7.3/6.0/6.4 lifters are the same as Oldsmobile 5.7 diesel, GM 6.2/6.5 diesel, Olds gas v8 with rollers, Olds 4.3 diesel v6, and some others.   DNA testing can be ugly.

The new ones are .058" shorter. If the heads are resurfaced it gets iffy about tappet travel. Same for valve wear into seats.

$64 for a set is cheper than the aggravation if it goes back together and has low compression on a cylinder.

North Caroline plates. Not a snow thrower. New Central Air unit?

No wait, a mosquito zapper.

Is that a German Cyclone Vortec? 

I'm wadding up some window screen and stuffing into the air cleaner to MAF pipe on a 6.7. I am going to stop EGR cooler plugging and NOx sensor problems. Ford will pay me millions.

That will only happen if you buy at least the EF-4 cyclone. Those lesser storms don't help your turbo spool.

I used an inline check valve that takes a couple of PSI to push fuel through. It is an aluminum cylindrical valve with typical rubber hose barbs on each end. The check valve stops the in-bed tank from syphoning once electric pump is switched off.

Just to throw this one out: You can get an in-bed toolbox/fuel tank combo and use a surplus in-tank pump to move into truck's tank via a a fitting you solder onto filler neck. Wire the pump to one of the upfitter switches and watch fuel gauge to know when you're done fueling as you go down the road.

6.0 is least worse but the clips are too few on the clean side end and that end cap can distort and can fail to seal, at least in the sunbelt they do. They could have had a different shape for the de-gas tank and made the filter service easier.

Which of those is CAN hi and CAN lo ?

I have looked all over my house and I haven't found a termination resistor yet. I think they are built into the bulbs.

It is hard to ignore the core support torquing the radiator as something that needs to be investigated. 6.4 and 6.7 share that design and mount and kill radiators in similar fashion.

I wonder if they have a found way to make the end tanks out of rubber?

You must be sure that he gets an understanding of verifying the problem and then diagnosing the problem is the way vehicles are repaired.

1. What do you want the tech to do? Be a low level tech that does component changes and maintenance work or a tech that can understand complex systems and diagnose and repair those systems? What does mangement want in regards to those two options?

2. Will your employer support your efforts? Do they think your trainee will be your clone in 3 months or know that in a year you can have a productive employee that still needs supervision for many types or repairs and may not yet be able to make a living wage if he is on flat rate? 

Be sure that skills in using tools is something you include in what you train. Some practice in tightening fasteners of various sizes and then measuring the torque it takes to move that fastener is very valuable in getting someone to understand basic wrenching. Use different length wrenches and ratchets when doing this exercise. Purposely let him break bolts.  Remember: you may have to work behind this guy, this impacts YOU. If he breaks something then quickly train him to deal with broken fasteners. This will drive home responsibility for one's actions.

Be sure you involve your trainee in diagnosis.  Make a list of various types of diagnostics in various systems and check them off since you will likely not remember well enough to know what has been practiced. Be sure the trainee is doing these things with you and he is not sent to do something he already knows while you figure out this tough one.

Be sure you don't give trainee the tasks you dislike. He will also likely dislike them and can be soured by this. He will know he is doing your shit work.

BE PATIENT

KEEP ANGER IN CHECK

A few years ago when I went to Buffalo for training I took a spare turbo for my 6.0 with me. You wouldn't believe the parts that went for a ride every day I drove that thing

Oh yee of little faith.....

But I sure get it. I have a 1981 F100 in my family that I bought new. It has 425K miles on it now using the original fender mounted ignition module. When the truck had 20K on it the body shop at the dealer where I worked used a front clip to repair a F150 and discarded the old front clip and I robbed the ign module and bolted it next to the other one. It has been there and scared the OE one into working all that time.

My only question was if this is seen very much. I know my only issue is with the auto adjuster feature of pedal slipping. The cable is definitely not moving to apply the park brakes due to the spool not being caught by the wrapped spring. The park brake shoes and drum area of rotors are very little worn and brakes hold full weight of vehicle with loaded trailers on a moderate grade where trucks will park to unload cattle and hay if you diddle the pedal to get the adjuster to catch. My thought is the spool is getting polished with use and allows the slip. The spool is greased from new, or at least the ones I have looked at. To be honest I can't swear I've examined the ones w/o a problem. I guess there is no fix for this other than a new pedal assembly.

250, 350, and 450.

I have a 350 and a 450 that I own and I see no difference in the parking brake pedal assemblies.

The issue I am posting about is definitely a problem with no travel at cable when pedal is pushed a distance. I can look from lower edge of dash into the assembly and see the spool/drum with a spring wrapped around it. When working properly the spool moves with first movement of pedal and when the pedal over travels without much park brake apply the spool/drum doesn't move until the pedal goes 3 or more inches down. That spool is what I have tried lubricating and also cleaning with only temporary success.

I know on my two trucks with 120K and 155K that the park brake is used a lot. 

I have two of these trucks, specifically 2006 year model, and I work on others. I park on a little bit of a grade and I am faithful about setting parking brake since plastic bits on shifter cables give me a little scare. Many of the ones I see, and my own, have slipping auto adjust park brake pedal assemblies. If you just push it with foot as normal the pedal will go way down and stop but truck can creep. If you push a bit then pause, push a bit more then pause, and then go the rest of the way the pedal will go firm with maybe 2 1/2 inches of travel and truck holds. The fact that diddling the pedal gives you a good hold tells me that park brake shoes and drum are OK.

Has anyone else noticed the same thing?

I tried lubricating the drum (drum? cable spool?) that wrapped spring binds on and that was temporary. I later tried brake cleaner spray to see if making the drum grippy helped and again it was a temporary solution.

The pedal has a stop that is a bit off the floor so you can think it is OK since pedal stops at a reasonable height but it doesn't hold enough that the truck won't be a bit bound in Park so that it takes that extra effort and you get driveshaft clang when you move out of park. I apply park brake before I put gear lever in Park so when park brake is working those trucks come out of Park easily and then I release park brake.

Selective catalytic reduction must be a VW term. It means that the catalytic reduction is only done when only the front wheels turn.

VW= very wily.

The only thing I can think of is that whatever they did to get the low emissions would have decreased engine life. 

I figured it is driveability and expense to clean intakes from excess soot from high EGR dosing.

The engineering correctness part of me thinks these quick fittings are shit.

The wants money to spend part of me LOVES them!!!

It's a Mitsu. If you find it at the correct level it still likely needs an engine.