Bruce Amacker

New aftermarket on FleaBay, in Joisey, current bid $42: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Powerstroke...=item2a1a23fc47

I think the price on used wastegate actuators just went up........

PS I think I have a mint one in my junk if you still come up empty.

6F089 base.

Email from student: My question is have you ever seen a 2002 F-450 have a problem of killing the engine when the windshield washer is used. By wiring diagrams I don’t see any connection. The harness looks good in the steering column. I even changed the multifunction switch just in case but that didn’t work. It will not usually kill it the first time you hit the button but about after 4-6 times it will die like you shut it off. It will restart. Battery voltage is fine. I'm kind of stumped on this one and don't know what to respond. The closest one I had like this was a 7.3 that would surge and stall when the turn signal was turned on, the problem ended up being the insulation became conductive on the green CMP sensor wire and cross bled voltage from the TS circuit into the CMP circuit. (I proved this with a scope, it was very weird). My gut instinct is a bad harness or bad ground somewhere. Any comments? Thanks!

I've sold more than a few books to Oz and wondered why, I just had a chat on the phone with a guy buying a book that answered some questions for me. The 7.3 is considered a status symbol over there, with 99-03 7.3 trucks still selling in the $70,000+ range! Ford of Australia does sell new trucks (converted to RHD) for about $130K new. Some parts prices for you- 7.3 water pump $1100 and CMP $500, the guy I spoke with said he orders most parts directly from the US to save money. The exchange is nearly even with the USD being $1.07 right now.

IIRC, 2004s didn't get OE hourmeters. I helped out a customer today, 2008 IH, repeat DPF clogging and fuel in the oil. New fuel lift pump. How many miles? 18,000. How many hours? 5200. Holy shit! 3MPH average, maybe the lowest I've seen yet. Did the injector tests and it failed. 6 new injectors coming.....

I, too, feel this is a poor choice. Good Luck, you're gonna need it!

"Tee" a 30lb pressure gauge into the cooling system with a long hose going into the cab. Take it out and romp on it, and see if the gauge jumps up indicating a head gasket. I'd also do some preliminary EGR cooler diag to rule that out. Good Luck!

I wouldn't be concerned if the spring is not straight.... Good Luck!

I'm pretty sure they've been out for almost 2 years now....

Mostly FMC 550 components, IIRC. Nice.

And the funny thing is, it's neither! ISIS: 1. Use a hex head wrench to remove the plug located in the top left front of the crankcase. 2. Inspect the plug, O-ring, spring, and the check ball for wear. Also check the ball seat in the valve port of the crankcase. Replace any worn items. 3. Install the ball and spring into the valve port. Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring and place it onto the plug. 4. Screw the plug into the crankcase. Tighten the plug to the standard torque value. Short Circuit Components 1. O-Ring 2. Plug 3. Spring 4. Check Ball

IIRC it's called a "short circuit valve". Here's what I remember: It sits in the top front of the block, removal of the TC is necessary for access. It is only used once in it's life to allow the LPOP to fill the reservoir to encourage starting a dry engine. Once the passages are full, it rarely or never opens back up again. I have never seen it cause a performance or oil system problem. It is finger loose in the picture above. (Sidebar- the elusive de-aeration valve in the front cover I do not have a picture of!) Good Luck!

Ditto, seen it several times. Uneedapump.

No, not referring to the priming check ball/spring arrangement (BTW it's in the block visible from the top with a 3/8" square drive on the plug) for filling the HP reservoir on a new dry engine. I'm referring to a valve in the rear side of the timing cover on '94-95 engines that would physically blow out of the cover and allow all pressurized oil to vent directly into the pan causing zero LPOP to the engine. I'm in FL and don't have my stuff with me right now but I think it's called a de-aeration valve or something.

It depends on the brakeclean. I always buy the non-flammable version for these reasons....

What model year? Early 7.3s had a relief valve that would blow out of the TC causing no LPOP. Please ALWAYS tell us what year you're working on. There are a ton of differences in these engines.

Try this:

Why do you say that? SM is the only software currently available (legally).

Holy smokes, Batman! I have a whole tote full of dead FICMs. I never knew they would bring that kind of cash.

I "think" they will all interchange. I've put several used ones on without paying attention to anything, programmed them, and let 'em go. Car-part.com only lists one FICM. Good Luck!

Start with FP and quality on a hard start/NS, ALWAYS. It has a gear driven FP/PS pump at the lower right of the engine with a sediment bowl that is frequently overlooked. There's a Schrader on the FF housing to check pressure. Make sure cranking RPM is 150 or more. Even Genisys (yech) should do a buzz test to see if the injector spools are sticking. No scan tool (even SM) gives MPWR but you can backprobe the injector to see the voltage, treat it like it's a 6.0. They do have FICM (they call them IDM) problems but not quite as common as a 6.0 (maybe 'cause you can't read MPWR). GPs are relay fed and the relays fail but won't set codes, so use an amp clamp to verify GP amperage (IIRC 175ish initially). LOSE THE F'ING ether if you'd like the engine to last! Backprobe the ICP return wire or watch ICPV in scan to see what's going on with the HP system, a Fluke can give you duty cycle (%) of the IPR if you're concerned there. If I were working on it I'd verify every item in scan with a backprobe 'cause I've been burned so many times by aftermarket scan tools. The 40a fuse in the battery box which feeds the ECM is a prime problem, remove it and inspect for melting/deterioration, also follow this feed all the way up front. Good Luck!

Every time I drive by this it makes me mad/sad. The giant Ford complex is slowly being dismantled leaving 230 acres of nothing..... http://www.cleveland.com/business/index.ssf/2011/11/ford_plant_closures_in_brook_p.html They want you to buy American, yet they ship production to Mehico.

Congratulations. I'm sure you learned a lot on this escapade, but at a large price (of time).