Bruce Amacker

We were a busy shop doing mostly Fords and IHs. When parts arrived, I always wrote on the bill what the vehicle was so the secretary could piece the ROs together into invoices. One time I was writing "red F-350" on a parts invoice when I turned around to see FIVE red F-350s in the shop......

Your case studies with pictures are equal to the best ones I have seen from national level instructors.

I'm no Sprinter expert, but I've only seen diesels in them, but they're quiet enough to pass as gassers. I think the current motor is a V6 of about 3 liters. They drive very nicely, and if the new Ford drives that well it will sell like a bitch. I think that is what the gurus at FMC were eying when they designed that van. What do you mean, "What happened to the Sprinter?" The sell the shit out of them around here. I "think" they were all MB no matter whether thay were badged MB, FL, or Dodge. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm assuming that's 14" of crankcase pressure? Do you trust those magnehelic guages?

I don't think either of them are really ugly, I prefer to think of them as modern, futuristic, and European. Maybe I'm just in a good mood today or something.....

That is absolutely inexcusable from your employer and I'm surprised you have stayed there....

If you get oil and are on your way to a PCM, install a breakout box and check your powers/grounds against the colored diag sheet. I have a known good used 7.3 PCM but I think it's Gen 2. www.car-part.com has plenty of them, make sure you get it for a '96. Good Luck!

Edit: Is the cooler still off? If it isn't puking oil from the front-cover-to-cooler flange, it's time to find out why. I'd pull the glow plugs so the engine will spin freer and overfill the crankcase in case the pickup tube is cracked (somewhat common) causing no LPOP. (another edit- use only a 1/4" ratchet, NO AIR TOOLS to pull the GP. If one starts to get "tighter" as it comes out, put it back in and leave it alone. 7.3s like to balloon the GP tips and break them off on removal, which is bad news. They work just fine on 7 GP.) Spin it and see what happens, maybe the pump lost its prime from sitting, or the tube cracked/aeration valve fell out or something. If the GP are out, pan is overfull and still nothing comes out of the TC port (to cooler) try gently blowing some air into this same port. If the d-a valve is missing, air will blow directly into the crankcase via the missing valve hole. You could also apply some gentle vacuum here and see if this port is open, like stuffing a piece of heater hose into the port in the TC and sucking/blowing on it with your mouth. If the DA valve is missing there will be no restriction and you'll be able to breathe through the heater hose. From the Gen 2 coffee table book, note pic is of the backside and pic is rotated 90 degrees: ESN is just behind the oil filter, very easy to read, if you want to know if your engine falls between the SN limits for the DA valve. Not my picture, valve missing:

Any shorted 3 wire sensor will cause VREF to go away. I've seen it several times, like with the ICP. It doesn't need to see base oil but it DOES need to see .8v min ICP to enable the injectors. If you unplug the ICP it will turn on the injectors regardless of OP/ICP pressure. Backprobe the ICP and watch voltage, it should be .18-.24 KOEO and build 1.5v cranking. Is the HP reservoir full? If you take the oil filter off will it puke oil there? If you fill the reservoir through the plug on top it should build ICP for a minute regardless of LPOP. (ugh) There's a "de-aeration" valve in the back of the timing cover on early trucks that has a bad habit of falling out, causing zero LPOP and a no start because of no HPOP. TC removal is out with the engine and off with the pan first. Also, early trucks had another nasty habit of losing the oil filter relief valve, causing the engine to get unfiltered oil 100% of the time. It should be visible under the filter, staked in place to the filter header, about the size of a dime. If it's missing you may be wasting your time as the whole engine will be full of debris and the oil cooler can get clogged because it now acts as the filter. If it's a virgin '94 it does not talk through the 16 pin under the right side of the dash, it will only talk through the EEC4 connector by the left hood hinge. Most of them were flashed/new PCM to update this and you need to tell the scan tool it's a '96. I still see virgins occasionally. Good Luck!

Aren't they serviced as a pair?

Chris:Like I said before, IMHO this problem appears to be regional, perhaps driven by what additives are used locally. I have seen major problems along the whole west coast, Chicago and Virginia for starters (but certainly not limited to these areas). I have customers who state they have spent a hundred grand changing tanks out, destroying their annual budget. Here's some shots I took at Virginia DOT last year when we were teaching there, they were in the middle of changing out tons of tanks: First indicator: Dead horses at the dumpster: Brad Clayton also has a bunch of great shots. Sidebar- about 2002 IH had a problem with tanks that had rust in them trashing injectors, and they quickly owned up to the fact, replacing tanks and injectors by the score. I'm guessing they backcharged their tank supplier but I'm not positive about it.

Yea, right.

I agree that tank problems are a pattern failure just about nationwide, but some areas of the country have more troubles than others. I attribute this to the tank not being able to handle some commonly used additives in diesel fuel. "Secret TSB" means SSM to me but I don't remember one right now.

Hey Guys: Found it- it’s the STC fitting! Here’s what I did today- I called my buddy and told him to drive the truck, run it in the lot at 2000rpm for two hours, then shut it off and let it hot soak for an hour, then I’d show up and use his IDS again. I graphed out the same PIDS as yesterday and it wouldn’t start with no ICP buildup. We pulled one VC and the dummy plug (Allen hex) to find it looked like new (!?). Doing an air check sealed the deal- there’s a big air leak in the back and the IPR works fine. He’s pulling the turbo now but I’m pretty confident it’s going to be the STC. Here’s some screen captures from today, note sometimes it started and sometimes not, and the funky Sync dropout that had me going down the wrong path (perhaps). Even when it did start, the IPR was waaaayyyy up there to light it off, not like yesterday when it was cold. The .62 mile CLRDIST was funky, too, he had driven it more than that today. I’ve seen this be wrong before, also- any comments? Thanks for the help, I appreciate it! Thanks to Fordracer for the VDR offer. That was my next step......

I'm still curious why there are 10 different engines listed for 6.0s. What could be different? Even if you include export versions without EGR, there should only be a few.....

I never saw the ICP/IPR go to the defaults you mention. Build date is 12/04 so I don't know which plugs it has. Thanks!

Hey Guys: I’m helping a friend/student in FL right now with a tough one and would like your joint opinions. 2005 F350 4x4 130k 6.0 The complaint is an intermittent no-start, usually after a hot soak of about an hour. The problem has been going on for several years but gradually getting more frequent. At first it was every 8 months or so, now to the point it is weekly or better. At first it was towed in several times when the complaint happened where it would start right up after arriving at the shop. If left on fast idle at the shop it never builds enough heat to recreate the problem. Over the last several years the following have been replaced- ICP, IPR, and CMP for various reasons. The CMP pad was super clean, no rust jacking. Replacement of these parts did not affect the problem. The tech had the owner disconnect the ICP once during a no-start situation which did not change the problem. The tech also went out on a service call twice to have the truck start right up when he got there. The latest time (late last week) the truck would not start, sat overnight, and the batteries were stone dead the next morning, even though when the tech arrived he could find no accessories left on. It was towed in, batteries charged, (no slow drain measured), sat 3-4 days when I arrived. I checked the GPM connectrs to make sure no melting or other visual problems were evident and pulled a bunch of codes (dead battery) like CMP, CKP, 4x4, key switch, several U1900 from different modules, but no ICP codes. I wrote off the CMP/CKP from extended cranking and don’t really trust the others are relevant. On the IDS I graphed ICP, IPR, RPM, FICM MPWR, FICM Sync, Sync, and tried to start the truck. It started within 3 seconds of cranking but Sync flipped back and forth several times between Yes and No on the bar graph I selected, only on the first start, and only for the first 2 seconds of cranking. IPR was within limits but I didn’t warm it up fully to see if it came down to 23ish. Looking at the IPR/ICP relationship graphs, the first one showed just a bit of high IPR for the 3 seconds it took to light but subsequent start graphs showed IPR much lower, which I wrote off as bleeding the HP system on it’s first start in several days. PCM/FICM programs are both current and MPWR was fine, 47.5. Fuel pressure was checked last time and 50something. Maintenance has been spot on with this guys’s whole fleet with OE filters, and he has several 6.0 trucks. It runs and drives virtually perfect when it runs. Right now I’m thinking about pulling the VC and checking the dummy plug o-rings, but the intermittent nature of this makes me wonder if this is the case. I brought along a known good PCM from up north and might try that for S&G. I neglected to bring a GPM which I think could be the source of the troubles, U1900s, and dead batteries. I’m unsure of my diagnostic direction and looking for suggestions. I don’t recall seeing a HP leak be so intermittent like this, I’m concerned about the U1900s and possibility of a harness or comm problem, or a funky shorted GPM. I don’t remember seeing Sync flip back and forth like that on other trucks, and the engine was cranking at a good speed. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

When he said "cupcakes" that's exactly what I thought it was, a cupcake.

Thinking out loud here: Are you using an IDS for diag? Does the RPM signal graph stay level while the bucking is occurring? Do any other graphs show the buck, like EBP, ICP, IPR, VGT, or anything? FP is 48PSI at WOT under load, right? If the turbo is dusted, quite possibly the engine is too, even though it shows 0% relative it still could be low on compression. It might not be your problem but a mechanical check sounds like a good idea. CMP rust jacking is quite common, and although it generally isn't this complaint you might want to pull it and clean the block flange. Can you be more specific about the complaint? "Bucking" and "bad miss" are two completely different things to me. Does it feel like a cylinder has dropped out, dead miss, skip or whatever your favorite term is? Or, does it buck hard like all 8 are shutting off for a split second? Let us know....

Hi Steve! IIRC, the gear is "supposed" to have two teeth striped with ink to ID the relationship. If the teeth aren't marked, you can't see the other marks without pulling the cover. I remember getting warranty pay because it was common that the reman co. did not properly stripe the gear teeth. We used a Mac diesel adapter to set the timing which is a little clamp on piezo crystal that clamps onto the HP line and triggers a gas timing light. IIRC there is no advance on the balancer so we used circumference/360 to make our own. Man I hope this is all correct, this goes back a long time ago, but I did a shitload of those engines. If the timing is too high they rattle bad, too retarded and they are sluggish and quiet. Good Luck! From ISIS: (There are some typos in this- the illustrations are completely wrong for the text!) Removing Injection Pump (all applications) INJECTION PUMP AND CAMSHAFT GEARS Injection pump and camshaft gears have a "Y" stamped on the face of the gears for alignment. In addition to the "Y", the gear teeth adjacent to the "Y" on the camshaft gear are permanently dyed. NOTE: The "Y" marks are not easily visible with the front cover on the engine. For ease of assembly, draw a reference line up from the "Y" mark on the gear, prior to removing the gear. NOTE: The following is necessary only if the injection pump drive gear is replaced. REMOVING INJECTION PUMP GEAR 1. Remove the injection pump adapter housing bolts and adapter housing ( Figure 9.37 ). IMPORTANT: DO NOT REMOVE INJECTION PUMP DRIVE GEAR YET. 2. Bar the engine over to TDC compression stroke for No. 1 cylinder. NOTE: Remove glow plugs to facilitate turning engine over by hand. 3. To verify that No.1 piston is at TDC position, remove the right valve cover and observe the No. 1 cylinder valve lever. The injection pump drive gear dowel must be at four o'clock position. The scribe line on the vibration damper should be at TDC. NOTE: With engines at TDC compression for No. 1 cylinder, gears should have the stamped "Y"'s aligned. Refer to Figure 9.38 . 4. Slide the injection pump gear back (do not remove) to expose the top of the camshaft gear when looking down into the top of the front cover. Draw a reference line up from the "Y" mark on the injection pump gear prior to removing the gear. DO NOT REMOVE THE INJECTION PUMP GEAR WITHOUT FOLLOWING THIS PROCEDURE. REASSEMBLY Injection Pump Gear Installation (With Front Cover Installed) IMPORTANT: PRIOR TO REASSEMBLY BE SURE ALL MATING SURFACES ARE CLEAN AND FREE OF EITHER GASKET MATERIAL OR R.T.V. SEALANT. 1. Install injection pump drive gear as follows: NOTE: If a new gear is being installed, mark the new gear in reference to the "Y" mark stamped on the front of the gear. (Refer to Figure 9.39 .) a. Install the injection pump drive gear to the camshaft gear with the reference line at six o'clock. b. Be sure the "Y" mark reference line on the injection pump drive gear mates in between the two dyed gear teeth of the camshaft gear. Refer to Figure 9.38 . IMPORTANT: VERIFY THAT NO.1 PISTON IS AT TDC PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE INJECTION PUMP DRIVE GEAR. 2. Apply a 1/8 in. dia. bead of R.T.V. sealant into the narrow groove at the bottom and sides of the gear tower; and a 3/16 in. diameter bead across the front of the gear tower. Refer to Figure 9.40 . IMPORTANT: ASSEMBLE COMPONENTS WITHIN 15 MINUTES OF R.T.V. APPLICATION. IF SEALANT "SETS UP" IT LOSES ITS SEALING EFFECTIVENESS. 3. Install the adapter housing over the injection pump drive gear and tighten the four mounting bolts. Refer to Figure 9.41 . NOTE: With the injection pump adapter housing mounted to the engine, the injection drive gear drive cannot "jump" timing. (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 9.39 (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 9.40 (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 9.41 Previous Next INJECTION PUMP INSTALLATION 1. Prepare injection pump for mounting to engine by rotating injection pump drive shaft so slot in drive shaft is approximately at 4 o'clock (viewed from front of engine). 2. Mount the injection pump assembly on the adapter housing over the three mounting studs and align the dowel on the injection pump drive gear with the slot in the drive shaft. NOTE: Do not slide the injection pump all the way forward on the studs. Slide about halfway to allow clearance for nut installation on studs at the injection pump mounting flange. 3. Align the scribed line on the pump with the scribed line on the adapter housing (at the 10:00 position) after the mounting nuts are started on the adapter housing studs. Refer to Figure 9.42 . IMPORTANT: NEW ENGINE AND INJECTION PUMP TIMING IS SET IN TWO STEPS DURING THE PRODUCTION PROCESS. IMPORTANT: step one: initial or static timing is marked at the 12:00 position on the pump flange and adapter housing. these marks are only used as an approximate timing setting prior to step two, dynamically timing the engine. IMPORTANT: STEP TWO: FINAL TIMING IS DONE DYNAMICLY. IF TIMING ADJUSTMENT IS REQUIRED, A ROBOTIC DEVISE AUTOMATICALLY ADJUSTS THE INJECTION PUMP POSITION BY ROTATING IT SLIGHTLY (ADVANCE OR RETARD), AND STRIKING NEW MARKS AT THE 10:00 POSITION. THE 12:00 MARKS MAY BE OUT OF ALIGNMENT DUE TO THE PUMP DURING THE DYNAMIC TIMING ADJUSTMENT. ONLY THE 10:00 MARKS MUST BE IN ALIGNMENT. NOTE: If service requires injection pump replacement, use the 12:00 scribe marks as a reference, then dynamically time the pump using the Tach-N'-Timet Instrument (ZTSE4142) and scribe new alignment at the 10:00 position. Refer to CGES-460 "7.3 L Diesel Engine Diagnostic Manual". (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 9.42 4. Install the three injection pump gear mounting bolts and tighten to specified torque (see Specifications ). Refer to Figure 9.43 . 5. Tighten injection pump mounting nuts using injection pump wrench ZTSE4132 . Refer to Figure 9.35 . 6. Install the oil fill tube and apply R.T.V. at the mounting surface prior to installation. 7. Remove all protective caps and install the fuel return hose, filter to pump supply tube and fuel injection line to nozzles. Tighten to SPECIFIED TORQUES IMPORTANT: USE NEW RUBBER SEALING SLEEVES ON ALL FUEL LINE CONNECTORS, EXCEPT HIGH PRESSURE NOZZLE LINES WHICH HAVE SWEDGED FITTINGS. IMPORTANT: FOR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS ON CLEANING, INSPECTING AND SERVICING THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP, REFER TO CGES-475 "THE STANADYNE DB-2 FUEL INJECTION PUMP SERVICE MANUAL. (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 9.43 Previous Next FROM FORM NO. CGED-440-* 9 INJECTION TIMING-DYNAMIC CHECK* See Illustration - Reverse Side Check timing using the Tach N' Time™ Instrument (ZTSE-4142) with timing adapter (ZTSE-4142-73.) Attach the adapter to the line pressure sensor on the No. 4 injection nozzle and connect the dynamic timing meter. Timing check A: Disconnect the Housing Pressure Cold Advance Solenoid (HPCA) connector from the HPCA terminal. Maintain 2000 RPM with the engine at operating temperature and record dynamic timing in Box A. Timing check B: Apply battery voltage to HPCA solenoid terminal, maintain 2000 RPM and record dynamic timing in Box B. CHECK TIMING AT: A: 2000 RPM NO LOAD, w/Housing Pressure Cold Advance Solenoid (HPCA) disconnected. Dynamic Timing Spec. 3.5° ± 2° BTDC. B: 2000 RPM NO LOAD, w/Housing Pressure Cold Advance Solenoid activated, (using a jumper wire). If no timing change, confirm HPCA is functioning before removing the injection pump. NOTE: Advance Timing Check ( should be 2° (min.) above first timing Check (A). C. (B -A) = Degrees Advance IMPORTANT: THE TIMING SPECIFICATION IS ACCURATE ONLY WHEN MEASURING DYNAMIC TIMING WITH THE TACH N' TIME ™ INSTRUMENT (ZTSE-4142). OTHER INSTRUMENTS WILL NOT GIVE THE SAME RESULTS. INSTRUMENT GUIDELINE DATA† 1 st Check 2 nd Check A. @ 2000 RPM A. Deg. A. Deg. NO LOAD w/HPCA Disconnected [3.5°±2] B. @ 2000 RPM B. Deg. B. Deg. NO LOAD ZTSE-4142 w/HPCA Activated C. (B-A)=Degs. Adv C. Deg. C. Deg. REFERENCE: REFER SECTION 5 OF DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL CGES-460-* FOR TIMING METER OPERATING PROCEDURES, LINE TO LINE (MARKS ALIGNED) INITIAL TIMING CHECK AND HPCA FUNCTIONAL CHECK. * Engine must be at normal operating temperature. † Refer to "Performance Data Guidelines, in this section. * - Manual specified with latest revision DYNAMIC INJECTION TIMING Dynamic timing is checked using the Tach-n-Time instrument (ZTSE-4142) with a clamp pick-up (ZTSE-4142-73) attached to an engine mounted line pressure sensor. The dynamic timing specification at 2000 RPM, no load, is 3.5° ± 2° BTDC as measured with ZTSE-4142. IMPORTANT: THE 7.3 LITER FUEL INJECTION PUMPS FOR INTERNATIONAL® 1000, 3000, 4000, S-SERIES AND METRO II APPLICATIONS, AND FORD MOTOR COMPANY E & F SERIES APPLICATIONS ARE TIMED IDENTICALLY AT THE FACTORY. HOWEVER, DYNAMIC TIMING SPECIFICATIONS FOR SERVICE ARE DIFFERENT DUE TO DIFFERENT TIMING METERS USED BY INTERNATIONAL AND FORD. EACH METER HAS DIFFERENT ELECTRONIC CIRCUITRY AND FILTERING WHICH ACCOUNTS FOR THE DIFFERENT SERVICE DYNAMIC TIMING SPECIFICATIONS. THE DYNAMIC TIMING SPECIFICATION LISTED ABOVE IS VALID ONLY WHEN USING THE TACH-N-TIME (ZTSE-4142). OTHER TIMING METERS WILL NOT PROVIDE THE SAME RESULTS. Timing advance, measured at 2000 RPM, no load, with the HPCA Solenoid activated MUST be 2_ min.( above the first timing check.) PROCEDURE 1. Slide the plastic protective cap off the line pressure sensor (Figure 5.24 ). 2. Clamp the "alligator style" pick-up (ZTSE-4142-73) to the line pressure sensor on the #4 cylinder injection nozzle. 3. Connect the ground clamp from the pick-up clamp harness to an appropriate ground as shown in Figure 5.25 . IMPORTANT: LINE PRESSURE SENSOR AND PICK-UP CLAMP MUST BE DRY. WET CONDITIONS CAN CAUSE ERRATIC READINGS. IF ERRATIC READINGS ARE OBSERVED, REMOVE THE PICK-UP CLAMP AND DRY THE CLAMP AND LINE PRESSURE SENSOR WITH A CLEAN, DRY CLOTH. SPRAY THE PICK-UP CLAMP AND LINE PRESSURE SENSOR ON ALL SURFACES, WITH A WATER DISPLACING SUBSTANCE, SUCH AS WD-40® AND RECLAMP THE PICK-UP TO THE LINE PRESSURE SENSOR. (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 5.25 Dynamic Injection Pump Timing 4. Set "SENSOR SIGNAL" rocker switch to the "CLAMP ON" position. Refer to Figure 5.26 . 5. Insert the magnetic probe into the magnetic pick-up access hole (top hole) located on the crankcase front cover. See Figure 5.25 . 6. Plug the magnetic probe terminal into the crankshaft sensor jack on the ZTSE-4142 body labeled "MAGNETIC PICK-UP". Refer to Figure 5.26 . 7. Set rocker switch to "MAGNETIC PICK-UP" position. Refer to Figure 5.26 . 8. Connect the ZTSE-4142 battery leads to the vehicle battery (red to "+", black to "-"). Display should light up and read (Set...20.0). CAUTION: THE ZTSE-4142 MUST BE GROUNDED TO THE ENGINE BLOCK. REFER TO FIGURE 5.26 . (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 5.26 ZTSE-4142 Control Panel 9. The timing meter automatically reads a 20° timing offset. No offset adjustment is required for the 7.3 Liter Diesel Engine. 10. Make sure all cables and wires are clear of fan, belts or any other moving parts. Keep wires away from exhaust manifolds. 11. Start engine. The sensor light on the ZTSE-4142 should be blinking regularly, indicating proper function of the connectors. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. IMPORTANT: HPCA SOLENOID MALFUNCTIONING AFFECTS TIMING. VERIFY PROPER HPCA OpERATION AS FOLLOWS: WITH ENGINE COLD (Coolant temperature below 85 ° F). a. With timing meter properly installed, disconnect yellow wire (Figure 5.27 ) to DEACTIVATE the HPCA Solenoid. (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 5.27 Deactivate HPCA Solenoid b. If RPM on timing meter decreases or a timing change is observed, the HPCA Solenoid is functioning. c. If NO decrease in RPM or timing is observed, the HPCA or the temperature sensor in the top/rear inboard side of the left cylinder head is faulty. Confirm temperature sensor function and replace HPCA or sensor as required. 12. WITH ENGINE WARM (Coolant temperature above 140 ° F). a. With the timing meter properly installed and the HPCA Solenoid Connected, use a jumper wire to activate the HPCA Solenoid. Refer to Figure 5.28 . b. If RPM on the meter increases or a timing change is observed, the HPCA Solenoid is functioning. c. If NO increase in RPM or timing is observed, the HPCA or the temperature sensor is not functioning. Confirm temperature sensor operation and replace HPCA or sensor as required. (Right click on graphic to bring up an option list) Figure 5.28 Activate HPCA Solenoid

You won't likely have injector wiring arcing when wet as they only operate at 48v. It's going to be really tough to diag these without an IDS so my first suggestion is to find one so you can take advantage of the balance/misfire graph. The only backyard test I could suggest is to load them up with a lubricity enhancer like Stanadyne Performance Formula and see if it helps which would indicate an injector problem (sticking barrels and plungers that would cause intermittent misfire). Injectors are on the top of my hit list for the complaint you describe. AE should show you the MPWR, make sure it stays above 47ish volts. Are the buzz tests consistent both cold and hot? Has the oil been changed recently on both? AE is not the tool for this and I can't say that Mode 6 is accurate, but it "might" show you something. Here's a screen capture from a 6.0 showing countable misfires on cyl #4: Good Luck!

www.car-part.com is a junkyard search engine that shows them starting at $35.

Oh, yes, I am aware of all that, but in the OP you didn't specify whether it was a warranty fix or not, and whether it is or not does not affect my opinion. I just wanted to put my two cents in (and IH's). If FMC wants you to pay you to put a cracked head on, then put a cracked head on, it's as simple as that. I would not want to be the cust in this situation. What do you think the original problem was? Overfueling injector? I talk about this in my classes regularly- it would be nice to know if STFT was wacked out for a period of time before the piston fried. I'd almost bet on it......

I know someone who that just did that exact swap with no problems as I helped him on details and remember seeing the flywheel stuff all laying there from the extra engine. I don't remember if he swapped rear castings or what, but he did get it done. I'm going to Chicago tomorrow but I could contact him Monday. Call me tomorrow if it's critical. 440-846-3885 Junkyard interchange shows a bunch of 6.0 engines for 2003: 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID DG-041-AB (MT) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID DG-041-BA (MT) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID DG-042-AB thru AD (AT) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID DG-042-AE, AF & AG 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID WG-041-AB (MT, low emis) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID WG-041-DB (MT, low emis) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID WG-042-AB (AT, low emis) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID WG-042-EE (AT, low emis) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID WG-042-EG (AT, low emis) 6.0L (VIN P, 8th digit, diesel), ID WG-042-EJ (AT, low emis)

IH says to replace them if cracked on MaxxForce 7 (PSD 6.4). From ISIS: 6. Spray dye penetrant on lower deck (gasket surface) of cylinder head and let dry for 5 to 15 minutes. 7. Wipe dye off cylinder head surface. 8. Spray developer on lower deck (gasket surface) of cylinder head and let dry for 5 to 15 minutes. Cracks show up as purple lines against white developer. CAUTION: To prevent engine damage, install a new cylinder head if cylinder head is cracked. You make the call.