Bruce Amacker

PS: We've covered this before. Remember that pay is not the #1 thing a tech is looking for, it's more like #3 or #4 on the list....

Good thing to remind him of, but I think it will run without the CKP signal. It should throw DTCs like mad without it, also......

Why do businesses offer positions at that pay? The answer is simple- because there's guys willing to work at that rate.

I ask this regularly in class of my fleet accounts, the students regularly reply they have many 6.0s that have never had any major service, some which have never even had minor service. But, then there are the ones with service records that go into pages and millions of dollars spent. Honestly, I'd say 3/4 of them have not had major service. One I play with regularly is right up the street from me, a '05 wrecker with 242k on it. The tranny finally died last week. 2 fuel pumps and a couple FICMs (he chose used ones 'cause they were quick and cheap) are the only failures. At 150 we did coolers and cleaned the turbo for maintenance on my suggestion. It's had a hard life, been a great truck and he needs to replace it. FWIW, he has a fleet of wreckers, mostly IHs but bought a Dodge Cummins in '08 that has more repairs than his 6.0. He's thinking of replacing the 6.0 with a 6.7 right now.

Hey Guys: This topic comes up regularly in class and I don't remember if we've come to a conclusion. I also don't know what the answer is. Can you interchange early and late 6.0 injectors? Have you ever seen it? What are the differences in construction? I have a student who has done it on a run stand but not a road truck. He said an 05 ran fine on the stand with '03 injectors. I'm thinking there could be a difference in volume of deliver as well as timing, as there could be a hydraulic difference causing a timing delay like the #8 on a 7.3. Any input is appreciated..... Thanks!

I would have liked to get much better pics but was behind a barrier keeping the public back. I do believe the lift supports were bolted to the cab/bed, though, from what I could see.

Oops, my bad. Yes, it would.

I was at the Detroit Auto Show this week and the FMC rep "said" there would be several versions of full size Euro Transit vans heading our way soon. He also stated that the small V8 diesel program (4.7 Land Rover based?) for F150/250 was being revived, just before telling me that early 6.7 diesels had aluminum oil pans. I'm not sure what to believe with this guy. His name was Neon, very tall dude with a German accent. He said zero changes in the 6.7 for this year, that's how the oil pan topic came up. I was really disappointed with the Ford truck display- only one 6.7 sitting there, with no extra diesel exhibits around it. FMC has at least two 6.7 cutaways that I know of, why didn't they have one there? Isn't the 6.7 one of their profit leaders? Overall, I was very disappointed with the whole show. It's been a few years (6-8?) since I went to the Detroit show last, but it was MUCH larger with much larger exhibits back then. They did have a 6.2 Raptor on a lift with the body removed which was cool, but didn't do much for me. This is the whole truck display- what a disappointment. I told the guy that, too.

Rust buildup increases the sensor air gap which lowers its voltage output. We're only talking about 2.5VAC idling on a good engine and .5VAC while cranking, so it's important that the air gap not be increased or hard starting (and other freaky, hard to diag problems) will result.

This is a great idea and should be done at every major repair.

My contact info is right on my website linked below, bamacker@aol.com, 440-846-3885. Materials can be ordered by phone or on the website and paid by CC or PayPal. Good Luck, and let us know what you find!

Assuming it's still operational, I'd put a bunch of UV dye in the coolant and secondary FF (they're different colors) and run it a bit to mix it in. I'd then pull the injectors out and use air to blow dry the injector bores. Next I'd cycle the key a few times and use a UV light to hopefully see some leakage or seepage from the sleeves along with pressurizing the cooling system to 20ish. Hopefully something will show up by here but if not I might pull the fuel check valves from the front of the heads and install an adapter to allow air to be applied there. IIRC, the thread is 12x1.5, the same as a FP check fitting. Keep us posted. 50% of the time this is cups, and 50% of the time it's a cracked head. I'm assuming this is CP and not extended warranty. After you find your problem don't forget to drop and clean the tank. Maybe I'm having a brain fart, but I can't see a head gasket causing this on a 6.0. Good Luck.

I can't believe this is not a required tool. Anyone working on 6.7s needs to have one of these on the shelf, and they're not expensive, I'm thinking $300-400. Yowzer!

I'm almost certain that is a PS tester, not a cooling system tester. I've posted pics here before of the Hickok Ford cooling system flow tester, I'll look for it. It's from the 80's and obsolete now. Edit:

Kind of long as my video editor won't do MP4s, just watch the first few seconds and you'll get the idea. Ignore the radio playing in the background.... http://youtu.be/rIA0sN1DleI 6.4 Piezo stack. I'm surprised you don't see the individual wafers. 6.7 pump: 6.7 injector. Once again, the piezos don't show. Business end of a 6.7: Sorry about the TT stamps. I don't like my stuff being used without permission.

DO NOT use ether without disconnecting the GP relay first, and then be very careful- get the motor spinning first, and then introduce a whiff into the turbo directly. bamacker@aol.com 440-846-3885

Ditto, and it's not unusual to have 7.3 injectors sludged up causing a hard start. Try running the buzz test several times cold and see if it starts easier (after you get the cranking RPM back up). Cranking should be 175 hot, minimum 150 cold. They'll start hard at 130 and you can't hear it.....

If he only got 3 years out of it, it's because of external circumstances (as you hinted) rather than a problem with the clutch. The Luk setup (probably relabeled South Bend) has a higher torque rating, larger diameter (by a full inch IIRC), and more wear surface than the OEM unit. They wear better and have a considerably lower pedal pressure than the OE unit. Luk has an engineering facility right down the street from my old shop and we used to do a LOT of engineering installs for them on SMF updates as well as other demo clutches. Their products are top quality and the company is a class act. Even in a regular install on a non-DMF, their Gold clutch lines are hard to beat. They are also OEM factory install on a large percentage of vehicles from the factory. IIRC, nearly all Euro cars come with Luk clutches as well as a lot of US cars. Just rambling....

Put a single mass Luk assy in it and get rid of the DMF (if it still has one). The whole assy with FW costs less than the OEM DMF that's probably bad. If the tip of the input shaft is worn from the pilot brg being bad the aftermarket has one that moves the surface back a bit to make use of a fresh surface. Ask/prep the cust for new hydraulics. If the hydraulics fail they will blame you or the clutch. (Use OEM hydraulics) Have a buddy stroke the clutch pedal while watching the firewall just behind the clutch MC. IIRC the firewall breaks allowing the MC mount to flex in operation. This is one of the few times I recommend an aftermarket part over an OEM part. Good Luck!

Keith: I'm sure cost of mfr is what it's all about and they could care less if it's easy or hard to tamper with. They "say" it can be cleaned once, but what's their procedure? Blow it out backwards blowing everything through the DOC? Must be. The cleaners cone in two general types- blowers and ovens. Blowers are done cold with either pulsating air through a nozzle or with an accumulator that stores air and "bangs" the air through. The oven method bakes the DPF over a long period of time (slow ramp up and down in temp) and then the blower is used. FSX makes the most popular DPF cleaner endorsed by several HD engine mfr's. Here's a couple of videos worth watching:

Most (if not all) LD DPF's are enclosed units welded into assemblies and not intended for any external service. All MD/HD DPF's are canister style and very easily to remove and service. Did you see my pic of a cutaway 6.7 DPF assy? It has 5 cats in it, all welded into one assembly. Good luck cleaning that $ucker. There's a guy on Ebay cutting open and cleaning 6.4 DPFs.

I think FSX says an oil soaked DPF can be baked and cleaned. I'll find the document and post it.

Ditto on what Keith said, I'd also suggest putting a (new/reman/used) PCM in it so you can talk through the OBD2 connector as you frequently cannot flash these to '96 specs like FMC says you can. (I'm assuming you're talking through the EEC4 underhood connector and not the OBD2 under the dash) It's odd it has not been updated as almost all of them have been by now. Monitor ICPV while driving and don't forget the HP system depends on LP oil, you might want to check that at the port on top of the reservoir while you're driving. I'm frequently seeing HP oil problems on older 7.3s from the LP system dropping out. The oil gauge on the dash is a liar, you know. A Fluke can be used to monitor IPR command, it should be 9-11% at a hot idle and ballpark 30-50% while driving. If it pegs at 85% it's starving for HP oil (or LP oil). Good Luck!

IIRC, upgrading the RAM from its base level (24ish to 48 or 128m or something?) did wonders for how the machine worked. I bet you could buy RAM for less than a candy bar....