jared_bortel

Just a fast answer. After HP fuel pump and harness replacement the truck ran fine. My best guess was the pump had "blowby" of sorts intermittantly under high load. I have no idea if this is even feasible but it sounds good to me. If anyone has a decent explanation for what may have actually happened please share.

I've seen some screw a zerk fitting into the back of a toolbox before. Shop had an air powered grease system, guy went to lunch and came back to find a 55gal jello mold in the shape of a toolbox.

Thank you for the input. I've been told to put complete eng harness, pump cover gasket and hp fuel pump in it. With verified good base fuel psi I believe that I should be able to rule out a combustion gas blow by issue. I think I'm seeing this pressure drop due to an internal pump failure. Having personally never been into one I dont know the internal design of this pump or frankly even how it works. With an FRP PID that consistently goes apeshit at WOT dropping low and rebuilding psi is this a possibility at this point, anything else I should check?

So i get a truck with an intermittant lack of power, it will happen then goes away when you cycle the key, and eventually will happen again. Obviously truck is going into derate,has consistently thrown P120F exc FRP variation. Due to the limited repeatability of this concern and customer taking truck as he pleases regardless of my opinion of whether it's fixed or not, truck has seen multiple other dealers thanks to the wrecker companies. After a multitude of repairs by myself and other techs elsewhere I am presented with a final attempt lemon law case. Previous repairs, almost all from hotline or FSE's or even a guy from international, iclude but are not limited to; air and fuel filters, frp sensor, pcm, both uvc harnesses, and reprogram. Have personally verified all the basics again today with no avail. At time of concern base fuel psi is 5 psi +/- 0.1psi. Typically at WOT with an FRPDES pid of 24650 and an FRP pid that is between 24500 and 19000. Now I have been instructed to replace the hp fuel pump, the cover gasket, and for shits and giggles a whole main eng harness. I absolutly invite any and all insight and diag advise you all may have becuase S.W.A.G.ging parts at this truck is not only not my intrest but sounds like a great big pain in the ass.

I've had them do the same thing with switching sync and FICM sync PIDs when crank tone wheels walked. You can check it somewhat using a screwdriver to attempt to wiggle it through the hole in the block for the crank sensor. Or just pull the oil pan and really get a good shot at it.

Just wondering but what is the problem with the "crappy" 2 piece one? When you replace it you install the bracket and end of story. Have any of you seen a bracketed onee break?

You can technically do it. I was doing heads on a truck that needed them a while back and the reman i replaced it with was bad. I believe they overmilled it and the #7 exh valve hit the piston and bent causing no compression and obviously a misfire. I had to tear the bitch apart for the socond time in three days but I was in a hurry and it was late. Removed the intake bolts and put a prybar under it somewhere and was able to accomplish it. Mind you this was for Fords adjuster/inspector who was supposed to arrive first thing in the morning. It all still had to come apart after I got approval. Although I know its not necessarily accurate for a measurement I piched the head from the top where the rocker carrier mounts to the block mating surface side and compared it to the new head, I beilieve i had approx .3" difference when measured with a caliper. Ford Quality Reman.

Of course I would never even think of violating emissions laws. Truck is a trailer queen to and from dragstrip. Yup for sure cant push limits from the epa.

I won't lie I've done a couple of them for friends with impressive results. Rebuilt a motor with studs and an egr delete and added water wetter to the cdooling system, flogged the shit out of it and still had max ect of 186. Pretty impressive.

You have fuel pressure so dont be too concerned. The only upgrade turbos Ive seen are for race cars but they are available Aurora makes a good one. With a p0401 and p0404 pop out your egr valve and check it if its not all full of shit clean it up and put it back in but leave it unplugged it'll pop the same codes but they are all mil light off. That should eliminate alot of coking issues and bs down the road. In fairness its a 6.0l they kill injectors no matter what at some point some how its kill injectors new or not. Tell them to be easy on the old bird and take it from there just lay out the facts for the guy and see what he wants do. All you can do is inform him with the info you have available to you and let him make the call.

Dont get me wrong Im guilty of speeding pretty regularly but lets be reasonable. 10mph or so over isn't a deathwish but with a 70 mph limit 40 over is. I lost my best friend to that exact shit on his down here for my 21 birthday. Worst part was he crossed the median and killed a man and put a conversion van full of highschoolers on their senior trip into the hospital. Tell you what if he walked up to me right now i dont know if id hug him or swing at his jaw. Like you all said common sense...

Yes that is the truck I was working on and in my defense let me tell you how things actually went down. I walked this guy through everything anybody ever did to this truck not just me. I told him everything we at our dealership had done to it every test we had performed and so on. I rode in his truck when i gave it to him and showed him the boost it was making on the ids. 23psi, you cant ask for much more than that out of an 03 early build with a stick. Truck runs completely fine this guy is complaing that his f350 on 22.5 inch rims wont hit 95 mph fast enough I told him I cant help him with that concern and told him to slow down or pull over an let me out. This truck runs as well or better than most trucks I've ever drove. I went as far as i could to please his guy giving my personal phone number, becuase i know he goes onto forums, and told him if a tech question presented itself that i would answer anything i could for him. And one last thing this guy was fishing for money from us end of story as soon as he came in demanding that the GM give him an extended warranty for free he lost his credibility. After myself the SD the shop foreman the advisor and the GM drove the truck they told him to come get his truck and not feel obligated to bring it back. Personally I could care less i did everything I could to please him if that wasn't enough well I dont make enough to cover his 200k warranty.

I'm selling my 04 F-150, I need a little more ass than a 5.4L 3-valve pig can give me. Now being a diesel tech I want to drive a hulking 4wd smoke billowing monster but due to Ford's fantastic resale value I cant afford a 6.0L. I personally like 6.0L they have gobs of power and with bulletproofing even more potential. So due to my limited budget and me being 21 and silly shit being important to me I am looking at 99-02 2500 dodges with a cummins. I'd be thrilled to be able to dump 2k - 3k into a relatively stock truck and when the mood strikes me make a reasonably safe 1000ft/lbs. If theres anyone with some insight I would like to know of any typical problems with these motors and reasonably priced mods to jack up numbers and keep it safe.

Well Ive finally fixed this pile. We ran out of options and finally swagged a pcm at it and low and behold we had accurate load pids and full boost. Thanks for all of your suggestions I appreciate the help.

Absolutely amazing. Nuff said

I can personally atest that the bg egr cleaner is junk. Ive used it on a truck that we tried to clean the intake out with it. All that service did was turn hard carbon build up in soft mushy sludge like crap. I did however notice that the oil flush that comes with it is phenomanal. The way that that flush works it cleans the egr valve ports on the intake side, and is supposed to clean the intake from cold side cac elbow with these little adaptors and injection nozzle that looks like the same one they have for defogs. You do the whole process with the motor running and to my knowledge air flow through that motor is never from intake into egr cooler. The rep that came here blew alot of smoke up our asses and after needing to tear it apart and replace manifold due to coking I had pretty well lost faith in the theory on this one.

Im pretty much at the point where I have to replace pcm. Problem is its on backorder for another 2 weeks and im roughly 2-3 weeks into this and the customers getting pissed. Pressure and temp pids are all where they should after overnight cold soak I'm roughly 75-80 degrees in south florida and at atmosphere on pressure pids koeo, truck also has well over a quarter tank of fuel. I'm just wondering if anyone has a miracle for me short of waiting for a pcm thats on intergalactic backorder.

Thanks for all the advice. In response to all the suggestions I've repeated the whole diag sheet with my shop foreman present, no solutions there. Verified app a few times over reads throughout range and voltage/position pids. I appreciate the advice as far as turbos are concerned. First off I replaced the entire turbo not a chra also like i stated previously turbo will make boost when commanded. Theroretically being able to control turbo and make 28psi should eliminate problems with turbo, vgt solenoid, intake, or exhuast problems. Next up truck runs well with a swapped out pcm from an 04 automatic (truck is an 03 manual). Load pid is low reading approx 65-70% at WOT in a second gear pull approx 2000 rpm only making 14-16psi. Load being an inferred value should point me towards input sensors but Ive verified icp, map, baro, and maf. Ive blown out pcm and reprogramed as blank using tear tag. Ive also uplugged ebp and test drove with no avail. This customer is starting to get upset and Ive been told pcm is on backorder until at least 3/17. If anyone can offer me additional info please do. Thank you all for your help.

I HAVE ROLLED A GOLF BALL DOWN THE DOWN PIPE NO OLD TURBO WHEEL DRIVEN WITHOUT CAT IN PLACE NO IMPROVEMENT 55+PSI AT WOT UNDER LOAD HAD SOMEWHAT STRANGE IPR AFTER REPLACEMENT JUST HAD STIRRED UP SOME STUFF AND PLUGGED IT REPLACED WITH NEW ICP AND CONNECTOR ALREADY REPLACED ROUGHLY 23% IPR 670PSI AT IDLE AND LIKE I SAID COMMAND VGT AND IT GOES RIGHT UP TO 28 PSI BOOST VERIFIED WITH GAUGE WHICH SHOULD RULE OUT INTAKE EXHAUST AND CAC PROBLEMS BUT IT GETS BETTER VEHICLE HAS EGRTP HOUSING WITH NO PLATE IN IT HARNESS MATCHES UP TO MOTOR AND SENSOR ON HOUSING BUT NO PURPOSE TO ANY OF IT AND PER HOTLINE EGRTP HOUSING SHOULD NOT EVEN BE INSTALLED AND WAS NEVER EQUIPED ON VEHICLE ITS BUILT 03/03 AND IS MANUAL TRANS BUT WILL RUN WELL ON AN 04 AUTO TRANS PCM?????

ALL THE NORMAL B/S HAS BEEN CHECKED FUEL PRESSURE ETC NO CODES PRESENT

2003 6.0 OVERHEAT AND LACK OF POWER P0404 P0401 FOUND TO HAVE COOLERS LEAKING TURBO TURBINE SIDE CORRODED AND EGR VALVE PLUGGED REPLACED THE ABOVE GO TO DRIVE IT HAS NO POWER STRANGE ICP READINGS REPLACED ICP AND CONNECTOR AND IPR EGR VALVE NOT RIGHT REPLACED SPW SWAPPED MAP AND MAF FROM ANOTHER TRUCK HAS LATEST PROGRAM AVAILABLE TRUCK IS MANUAL TRANS INTAKE NOT PLUGGED CHECKED WHEN DOING COOLERS MY PROBLEM IS RELATED TO LOW BOOST 16PSI MAX AND THATS WORKING IT VEHICLE WILL MAKE 25-28 WITH SOMEONE WORKING VGT NO INTAKE OR EXH LEAKS BUT IT FEELS LIKE IM MISSING AN INPUT LOAD IS 65-70% WITH 99.5% APP 2000 RPM IN SECOND GEAR

IM NEW TO THIS SITE AND IM A YOUNG BUCK IN THE SCHEME OF THINGS ABOUT THREE YEARS OUT OF UTI. IVE BEEN DIESEL TECH FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF AND IM LOSING MY SHIRT. I WAS WONDERING IF ANYBODY NEW SOME HINT AND TRICKS TO MAKE MY LIFE A LITTLE EASIER AND WITH LUCK MAKE ME SOME MORE MONEY. ANY AND ALL ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED THESE SLTS TIME ARE BRUTAL AND FOLLOWING A SHOP MANUAL DOESNT ALLOW YOU TO COME CLOSE TO THEM. THANKYOU IN ADVANCE.