jared_bortel

My greatest concern with our president elect relates directly to gun control. His voting history on the subject is utterly appaling. If he had his way, someone could break into my house and proceed to kill my family but if I were to kill him back, I'm at fault. This is absurd. To be completely honest I am buying as many tactical style weapons as I can afford before Jan. 21 rolls around. Go ahead and outlaw them, but good luck coming to my door to get them.

Just a quick update. FSE got approval for a direct drop in replacement. Awesome because honestly, I'm really not very confident in putting this thing back together, due to limited experience. After relay this joy to my service manager I came in this morning with the notion of sticking in a new motor and cranking this thing out of here. Not the case, service manager decides that our 126 is too high and I'm putting pistons and rods and a crank in it. As well as replacing the valve on 2 cylinders. This is sweet

Yeah reman quality is a joke, but this bitch is new like I said 500mi. It's upsetting if nothing else, running claims up our asses with no valid reason but we can't run this truck up theirs. WTF?

Just to update I got to finish tearing it apart this morning. 2 spun bearing on cyl 5 and 7 and if you take the rod ends off and switch them them fit perfect. But in fairness, they were both labeled number 5. Turns out they even need to idiot proof the job you're paid to do all day. Thanks IH and FoMoCo never wonder why your diesel techs hate their jobs. But remember to fix their mistakes right the first time, ok guys?

I have a 6.4l in with 500 miles on the clock and it's knocking away. It was delivered through a different dealer by one of our salesmen for rebate issues, it was delivered with the damn knocking noise. Ok here comes the fse and ford and international say check for foriegn debris on top of the piston. To add to that they say if it's in there it will most likely be 3/4 of an inch. What the hell kind of quality control is this? How do you miss a 3/4" piece of metal floating around in a motor? After tearing out the injectors to boroscope it with no avail, I'm told to tear down the motor until I find something. Off come the heads, and sure as shit there's a perfect witness mark on the piston that looks like four valves. Out comes the motor to check the bottom end. There's a 1/16" gap on one of the rod ends. After complete inspection there are 2 rods that were either fractured wrong or switched with different caps. They are number properly and installed with proper orientation but dont come close to fitting. How is it that we can be expected to fix things that arn't built right in the first place? Apparently they laid of the whole quality control division at IH. Now I have to argue with the fse to give me a complete drop in motor. To be completely honest, my 6.4l experience has been limited to hp pumps and cover gaskets and they're trying to get me to put a crank in this thing. I hate being diesel certified. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif

So I had metioned to everyone that I had moved back home to Buffalo, NY. I'm now working on automobiles, professionally, for the first time in the "Rust Belt". Please bear with me as I explain my newfound love for road salt. On the plus side it totally destroys vehicles and sends a lot of work my way, on the other hand, I now have my own personally oxy-acetylene outfit. I have a new found respect for all of you in the snowbelt region now that flat rate has shown me the joy of northern wrenching. Turns out when you're working fast you tend to bust your knuckles, and believe it not that shit hurts with cold hands. But the reason for my post is a warning to those who haven't seen it. I just finished having my ass kicked for about a day and a half by a truck with no SYNC or FICM_SYNC. My rpm pattern looked like a digital hall effect square wave going from 0 to 30 rpm, while the motor happily spun away at about 180. Even more confusing there was 380 ohms across the ckp sensor at the pcm and 379 across the sensor alone. checked Hz at the ckp and the pcm and had 179-180. Ok wtf? A/c voltage however, thank you hotline, was only at .06acv. Of course there is no published spec for this but what the hell. Replaced ckp and still had the same reading. Pull the sensor back out and checked trigger wheel with a boroscope, every thing fine. Checked wheel with a screwdriver no flopping around. Im out of ideas. I sleep on it and decide that I'll start over again and clean everything and retest. Well sure as shit I emery cloth the very mild surface rust on the block lube the sensor and put it in and .6vac. Throw it all together and down the she goes. Im amazed becuase I didn't take of much in 30 seconds with emery cloth, but apparently I took enough. Just a heads up in case it ever helps someone. Are there any other specific issues I should keep an eye out for as far as a snow belt corrosion concern?

Keith, I have to ask, how are disassembling a Super Duty cab that requires brake bleeding? Can't you just lay the HCU and master cylinder over on the motor?

IMHO, you need to wait and check it in the morning. If it still cranks when it's stone cold then you may have dodged a bullet. I'd slam the fan clutch in it change the oil and filter flush the coolant for good luck and beat that bitch silly. Worst case scenario try to stay close to home while you're doing it and at least the tow bill is minor. In past experience though, when I've had standpipes melt on trucks, I've never been able to get them to spin over, it's kind of like someone packing a bearing with plastigauge I reckon.

I think we've found the problem. Last night we had decided to remove the valve cover for fun. After popping the springs off the valves and using zip ties to hold them up, found no tension what-so-ever on the intake valve. It wasn't real tight on the exhaust valve but you could feel the seal holding it somewhat. Having 2 seals overnighted so we can ride this weekend. Thanks for the input.

I love the stuff but as much as it costs I'm hesitant. I started to talk with the friend of mine that introduced me to it, he is a truck tech for a company that mixes and distributes bio-blended fuel. He uses b100 as a parts cleaner or in a pinch as a penetrating oil or lubricant. We had started to discuss the feasability of using straight bio as a penetrating oil, just pouring into a typical spray bottle. Concensus between the two of us says it should work and seeing as you can get a gallon of bio for 3 dollars vs. 12 bucks a can of this stuff I'm tempted to try it so when I can evaluate it I'll let you all know.

Off the top of my head it's SAE 40 weight, but I know that it's right from Honda's parts counter at the powersports store. Just a thought but with a few hours already on the bike and it running fine is it possible that the rings "unseated"? I've seen cylinders washout before but I've got good compression, which should eliminate that as a cause.

I agree with what's been said, original problem was definitely a valve seal as backside of intake valve was loaded with oil. I have the manual for the bike and reassembled it as directed, however it's fairly simple so I didn't necessarily consult it for every step, but I read the procedure twice beforehand and once afterward. Compression and leakage tests were inconclusive as I only had a 5 psi jump with wet compression and less than 5% leakage. I'll pull the fill plug tonight and let you all know but I'd be very surprised to see that as I have no coresponding symptoms. I'm thinking that the new head may have the same problem. Not like there's ever been consistent failures with vehicles before.

This is more a question of basic engine theory I suppose. Single cylinder 500cc four stroke engine burning oil after a rebuild. Original failure had wrist pin wallor out hole in piston cuased major piston to jug contact. Pulled top end off and cylinder off, 0 play in connecting rod to wrist pin. Ordered an over bore kit with a domed piston, machine work done by reputable shop that I've had experience with before. Get everything back and reassemble it, thing runs like a scalded dog. Go out riding runs great through 5 hr of serious mudholes, obviously wasn't broken in properly but that's not a cause of my concern. Changed the oil during the next weekend and went riding again, running well until about 3 hr into it, then it turns into a rolling mosquito fogger. Burns a half a quart of oil in 45min. I go straight to valve guide seals, ending up replacing whole head assembly with one off a friends bike. Reassemble and test drove new plug once again covered in oil and it's still smoking. We're trying to repair this damn thing but don't know where to go. Basic symptoms include loss of oil, no external oil leaks, no loss of power, crankcase breather has a foam filter over it that is completely dry. Bike that replacement head was sourced from was stolen and recovered so history is somewhat unknown but there is no way it could have over 80 hr total on motor. Piston rings and cylinder wall are known good, reinspected before placing new head and crosshatch is still present and not a scratch on it anywhere. Possible failure scenarios I've thought of but have disproven: Poor seal of ring to wall, should cause oil venting both into and out of crankcase therefore should have oil on breather and furthermore a loss of compression there by creating a noticable loss of power on a single cylinder engine. Piston cocking on up and down travel in cylinder, piston ring spun and stacked up the gaps in the two compression rings, or cracked ring. Shouldn't all of these, however unlikely, create the same symptoms listed above as well as show markings of some sort on the cylinder wall? Leaving the final answer of new head's valve seals are crap as well cuasing the same concern as previous head. Does this make sense to anyone else? I want to double check that I'm not missing something stupid. I will be running a wet and dry compression test after work as well as a cylinder leakage test, maybe that will come up with something I can use. Compression testing is just for comparison of wet to dry because I have no spec for this motor now that it's been overbored and had a domed piston popped in it.

I just came accross this stuff from a heavy truck mechanic friend of mine. It's called BioBlend I don't know where he gets it from but I'll find out and let you know. I had to change an EGRTA sensor on a 6.4l, I spritzed real quick and had a cigarette to let it soak, the thing broke loose with three fingers and a stubby wrench. Worth it's weight in gold if you ask me.

I've got a customer pay ticket needs head gaskets, need the pn on the fuel supply lines if anyone has it.

Yeaah, unfortunatly that pretty much the story. I once had to do head gaskets in cab on a F-550 and broke that little nipple off the radiator trying to pull out the left cylinder head. Well if you take my rate times flag time on truck I worked that day and a half or so for just about nothing. BTW did you all know that my cost on a radiator is about 350. Better still I put in the new one and it had a leaking upper tank. Service part warranty a new one but oh, wait, who pays the time? There's no repair order for the original one installed. Well here's another freebie. I love it.

I agree pull the cab. I'm 22 and I herniated 2 discs and tore one trying to torque head bolts on a 6.0L in cab. Had to pull the head off a 2.3L ranger the other day, took one look at the intake and the coolant hose cluster#$%^ on the back of the head, team leader came over to me and asked which damn diesel guy pulled the cab on a ranger. Motor got swapped in about 45 min though.

Just one of those things I guess. In some way I admittedly dropped the ball by not just putting one on the original estimate as a "when we're done" type of thing. It's upsetting but i guess every dealer has their quirks. At least thats what I tell myself.

Simply put I have very little doubt about the cause of this failure being the injector hold down. I was just wondering what everybody's opinion on my findings with the injector hold down bolt length and whether this this evidence is substantial enough to support my conclusion.

Mike, just to let you know, if this were a retail repair like the one I have right now, a number of things happen. First the advisor looks at you dumbfounded and tries to tell you you're paying for it. Then, after some kind words between the two of you, he'll walk up to you and hand you a cell phone with a customer on the other end, becuase this is clearly your fault. Then you have to try to explain to a customer that although the truck runs well that your ipr value is about 29% instead of the 22% it should be. Customer says ok so what's the problem? You respond with something like "okay it runs right now, but it will come back on the hook, gaurenteed." That advisor then grabs his phone and take the price quote you gave him, trying to do him a favor and billing the part at employee cost with a warranty labor time, and tries to tell you he is going to deflag a few hours to pay for the ipr which you're putting in for free. Man, I am so friggin glad I took that damn diesel course. Certification pays, yeah you pay out the ass.

I agree that the injector cup would be cause for concern but I forgot to mention that the head was replaced with the head gasket repair so theoretically it's relatively fresh. I got lucky and manual compression test showed 380 psi across the whole bank. Rolled the dice and put it back together with a new inj and hold down and double checked the torque on all four on that bank. I raped that truck for 30 mi. and it went fine so I shipped it out. I was just wondering the plausability of my little theory. Thanks guys.

Had a truck in the shop for a straight forward head gasket repair. Pretty cut and dried big old pain in the ass. B/S extra wiring ofr the service box and all the shit on it made it foolish to even try and pull cab. Performed head repair and test drove about 40 mi. Returned vehicle to customer and he drove it for about 300mi over the past day and a half. Truck hydrolocks on I-95 at 65 mph. Injector #8 leaked down and hydrolocked cylinder. Hold down bolt came out tight and bottom o oring and copper washer are gone. I know beyond any reasonable doubt that i torqued injector fully to 24ft/lb spec. Upon removal I find alot of visible wear on head of bolt as if it had been excessivly handled. Run oasis again and remember that previous history at other dealers involed #8 injector replacement three time already. I have a few spare holddowns in my nut and bolt collection and I started checking them. Compared to the four spares I have the one I removed from this truck was .025" longer. I doubt for some reason that this is my issue and point of failure but i must raise an eyebrow none the less. BTW the other four that i had spare were about .007" max difference in the range of them.

I'm a young one at 22 years old but there's a guy in his 40's that I socialize with. He tends to catch me with wandering eyes at the bar or elsewhere and reminds me "Remember, no matter how good she looks or how sweet she is somebody, somewhere, is tired of her shit." Or for those of you who have had the pleasure of S. Fl in July "It's hotter than two mice mice #@$%ing in a wool sock."

Althought I do read diesel power I have greatly lost faith in their technical knowledge. They published an article a couple months ago about putting head studs in your 6.0l. It stated how you need to be careful when removing the head gasket not to seperate or damage it, SO IT COULD BE CLEANED AND REUSED. Seriously?

I've added a new twist on the old 90psi coolant jug. I took one and filled it about 3/4 with water and laid it down behind a friend. It blew like a water laden land mine, absolutely priceless, be warned though nothing that can't get wet within a 25 foot radius.