sam

Thank you for posting this, i did a little more searching and found it aswell, i was going about this the lazy way at first for a quick find... Thank you agian....

we have a customer who added a flat bed on there f350 and now the blinkers are fast being there is now led lights, Does anyone have a list of resistors i can buy to make them flash normal speed? Or a "job aid" i can goto and look it up. I have not done one of these yet but know it can be done. thank you in advance for the help

the group of lines from one bank to the other and the injector lines... but the only ones i think we are going to reuse is the group that goes from bank to bank... unless they show up, supposed to be d99...

One of the trucks that we have had 4 cracked exhaust valves on the oppsite side than the one with the broken valve. we are waiting on exhaust valves now... The engineer said the fuel lines can be reused, they reused them up to 7 times in testing with no issue. Just some more fyi... He also said when they find an answer they will relay to us... i think that he was headed to kansas next from what he was saying

I have seen egr coolers blown so bad that it caused the same concern. Looked like a train smoking thru the degas bottle with the cap off. Not saying that the head gaskets are blown, but the one i had i replaed the egr cooler and oil cooler and it was good to go. No extreme coolant pressure afterwards. Just my 2 cents.

we had an engineer here yesterday, he is taking the effected valves, push rods and rocker arm assy. for the cylinder that has the damage with him and sending to be inspected more closly. we also found another valve that is cracked on the same bank but differ cylinder. The engineer is coming back today also. he was saying that they have 9 trucks total so far with this issue. Thinking that its getting to hot in regen. If so, we are going to be doing a reprogram in the future. Also said that by next week they will/should have it figured out.

oh yeah both of our trucks have around 64000 miles and 1203 hours, 280 hrs of idle. our fse was not really concerned with these numbers...

6/21/10 is build date on one, both trucks are nomally loaded pulling a trailer. but dont have a tool box bed on them. we have a 6.7 engineer coming from ford this week, will keep yall updated when i find something out.

both of our is confirmed broke exhaust valves. no word from hotline on what may caused it...we are doing short blocks, 1 cylinder head, effected injector and glow plug...

we have 2 truck in our shop now, one is tore down and have one exhaust valve that is broken like the one pictured. the other one is getting tore down, but has 0psi compression on #8, have not found any issues with the injectors, they are held down tight... we are waiting on parts now on one and waiting to see on the other...

it was the tstats.. hyperextended blocking flow,

yeah i was checking off my lap top, the fan clutch is not engauged at all, and i dont have a laser temp probe... but i have noticed that the fan clucth will cycle on and off as normal.

i have a truck doing the same thing, and fmcdealer is down, what have you found on this? was the tstats the problem with it? i found on mine that the engine temp gauge will go to hot and the ect will stay at 204 while the eot will goto 260+. when the eot will got below 259ish the gauge starts to drop. thanks for your help...

i dont do any air brake work, but this morning i have one come in with a air brake concern and i am the only one who is "certified" to work on it. I found that there is a leak at a pressure switch on the brake pedal assy. not sure what its called, (yc3t-18737-aa) is the part number on the switch. have one coming. The air is leaking thru the switch and coming out the elec. connector side. easy find since it was leaking so bad. hope this might help someone in the future. Is there anything i should look for other than bleeding the air press before removing the switch?

Hey guys, i have a 96 7.3 that the customer is staying it lack power. Went and drove it, seems fine, but kinda surges. Found a fuel leak at the lift pump and removed the fuel filter to see what it looked like. There is a black film on the walls of the housing. I looked thru the post to see if i could find where it has been talked about, but i am not having any luck. I do remember reading about it. I am leaning toward the injector orings but want to do more diag first. And i dont have a lot of experience with the 7.3, they seem to kick my butt from time to time... i guess i over think everything on them... but all help would be great... Thanks

Also if the IAT 2 sensor has carbon on it, it will add more fuel and cause a white smoke problem aswell.....Thinking that the temp is cooler than it really is..... I always remove it and clean it, most of them are completly pluged up....

Update here is what hotline said.... Sam, there are reports of possible quality issues with replacement EGR valves. Install another valve and if the DTC resets, contact the Hotline by phone and speak to an engineer about this concern.

I am doing the same thing now with egr valves, i think that there might be a bad batch aswell, waiting to see what hotline tells me to do, i also noticed that if i put the old egr valve in and retest it ( old egr valve cold to touch ) that it will pass. New egr valve ( hot ) fails, Took the new egr valve and ran cold water over it and retested it now it will pass the koeo part of egr test... this is driving me and the customer crazy. The customer is complaining about a cel only, no driveabilty concerns. Glad i am not the only one with the issue with the new valve.......

Sorry i didnt reply, i did find out what the prob was, the 2 wire connector on the alt, the 2 wires where chafed from where they where laying on each other and causing power to be fed back in to the i.c.

Ok another shop diag the ic being the fault, so now it is in my bay with a new instrument cluster and the problem still exist... I am not sure where to go, did not see any wires rubbing, and sometimes when you shut off the key the engine will stay running till you hit the accel. then the engine will rev a bit and die. unplugged the accel and the problem still exist. seems like there is a problem with the either the fuse box/gem or the ignition swithch... can you guys help me in the direction i need to go to diag this... thank you.... oh yeah, its a 2002 western hauler if that helps....

ok its been awhile, but the truck came back finally, i replaced the fuel pump and reprogramed the pcm and ic. it has been about 2 wks now and no word of it. i think i fixed it.... we will see.

I tried to get the housing and ford says that it is obsilete, so i ended up ording the pump so when it gets here i will put it on and then explore the old pump and housing before i turn it in to parts.

thanks guys for all the help i will let you know what i end up doing to fix it when the customer brings it back.

i have already replaced the manifold, the sensor is not in the manifold on the 6.4 like on the 6.0, i beleive it is at the front of the pump, but parts does no have a listing for the sensor,

when i get it back in here i will check for updates and see if there is water that will drian out of the seperator, Keep all suggestions comming.