fergy12

Sorry for reviving an old thread but does someone have the cylinder mass values of a good running engine? I’ve got a 6.7 right now threw fuel limit codes for 3 cylinders (5,7,8). did all the pinpoint test to no real conclusion, relative compression good, manual power balance has cylinders 4 and 6 slightly higher than the rest but those cylinders not tossing codes. No driveability issues. Did the TSB for clearing fuel values and crank position sensor. Vehicle returned to have injectors done, rechecked codes, now have codes for cylinder #2, #6 and #8. Cleared the fuel values again and 3 cylinders are up around that .03-.07grams range, the rest are in the -.03- -.06. No real evidence of metallic flakes in lower fuel housing. vehicle does have bully dog tuner, IQA all correct, dyed diesel (farm fuel) that the customer states they use additives in at all times, latest programming I removed tuner, updated pcm, reloaded tune last visit. im thinking the cylinder mass pids should be +-.05grams or less, more in the range of +-.03 as stated above but just curious as to what you guys are seeing. I tried to find another 6.7 to compare and unfortunately don’t have one at the moment. Thanks.

Had the exact same thing on a 2008 F350. Intermittent 4x4 flashing light, intermittent clunking and banging from transfer case, and one other thing, happened only when raining or wet. Wires rubbed in that exact location, about 5 or 6 of them.

okay that's something i'll look into. on the frequent regen, With the high crankcase pressure readings i was getting (12-14"H20, suspecting turbo, with CAC tube discononnected crankcase pressure drops) Now opinions or better yet personal experiences, high crankcase pressure causing excessive regen? (skewed maf readings, oil mist entering intake system due to excessive blowby) I will be doing a manual compression on this truck either way. Lately the old compression tester and crankcase pressure tester have been getting a workout, and usually ends badly on the 6.4. I apologize I kind of took this post off of the original question, but I use pretty much all the same pids mentioned above, never knew what the DPF time pids were for. Your power balance diagram looks somewhat similar to one I just have all tore apart in my bay. Ran fine, vehicle had a miss cold, customer never noticed but threw code for cylinder #6 misfire. Now short term fuel trims hot all within +-10. cold cylinder #6 11-15. Hot with fuel rail pressure cranked up to 15,000psi, I got a small drop like you see from cylinder 2, and 4, and a slightly larger drop from cylinder #6. Cylinder #5 was overcontributing similar to what cylinder #3 is doing in your diagram. So I had #5 Overcontributing and #6 Undercontributing similar to your diagram, just different cylinders. Relative compression passed, Manual compression #6 320-330 psi, 2,4,8- 340psi, 1,3,5,7-360PSi. All in all pistons touched valves, bent rods slightly, scored cylinder wall slightly. DPF delete so can't tell ya if it had frequent regen.

Wow am I ever glad we are on this topic, I have 2 2008 6.4L that have me scratching my head and loosing money the last few weeks. First is a 2008 ambulance, came in wrench light on, check engine light on. Codes P2463, P246C, and a DPF pressure sensor circuit range performance (cant remember which one) Attempted manual regen 3 times, would not regen, attempted roadtest regen, went into regen but kicked out of regen coming up with codes P2463 and P246C. Replaced the DPF due to being clogged, reset DPF tables cleaned out Map sensor, inspected EBP tube and sensor no restrictions, and replaced the MAF due to not reading 0G/s at KOEO. Roadtested this vehicle it worked fine, DPF pressure at idle .06-.15, load status indicating clean the whole roadtest. Get back to dealer shut vehicle off, turn key on to do a KOEO test all pass. Turn key off then start vehicle to do a KOER test begin test and notice instrument panel says drive to clean exhaust. Cancel KOER test, go into datalogger, DPF load state clean,distance since last regen requested 27Km... what gives? IC says drive to clean but PCM according to IDS did not initiate request. KOEO codes now P2463. Cleared code, codes returned with freeze frame data 1 second after startup, 700RPM. So back into datalogger watching DPF pressures and voltages at idle .51V, Pressure .15psi with no erratic readings, 0psi KOEO. Crankcase pressure at 10"H20, but doubting that's an issue 1 second after startup. Its just baffling because everything that should set that code has been replaced. Second one has been awhile since I looked at, it was frequent regen, every 100-150km highway driving. No codes, enhanced injector balances all looked okay, New MAF, MAP, EBP no change. Would complete regen just fine. Only thing I have really found with that one is Crankcase pressure is high at 12-14"H20. Hotline thinks its not a 3/4 full DPF so been driving this thing for weeks trying to figure it out. Thanks for posting the above readings, it gives me a little something to reference to as normal readings. Have had a few DPF issues prior, injector issues, oil issues but these two are kicking my a**. Any ideas or experiences with related symptoms and fixes are much appreciated!

Had one similar with burnt up direct clutch scoring on balance piston and nicked up seals. Fluid was burnt. Only trouble i'm having now is getting the Forward and Direct clutches to air test properly. If I used tonnes of Vaseline I can get a thud out of them for a few applications, other than that I just hear crossleaks.

This is an oldie but thought id comment on my experience with one today, customer complaint of lagging on acceleration from a stop intermittently, and will have dead pedal intermittently, intermittent rough idle. Checked codes code P0299, All PIDS, ICP, EBP all appearing normal, Noticed when did occur EBP was 17-18PSI VGTDC-85% before accelerating and when it didn't lag on accel was getting 15-16psi VGTDC-75-80%. So after swapping a VGT with no change. EGR test pass, Turbo test pass. Fumbled around some more looking at pids thinking possible turbo sticking, but turbo was done a year ago... pulled out EBP looked okay but replaced anyway went to start it up and it wouldn't start. Checked ICP voltage .55V KOEO, wiggled the sensor around with no change, after about 2 minutes it dropped back to .24. So Replaced ICP sensor as well, roadtested and runs good now! Not entirely sure whether it was the EBP causing the higher EBP readings, or a bad ICP skewing VreF readings causing those erratic readings.

Got it tore apart today and sure enough, the water pump impeller is just spinning freely on the shaft, whether it contacted the front cover then broke loose or broke loose then contacted the front cover is unknown.

Hello everyone! Just wondering if anyone out there has had a new 6.4 water pump fail? Reason i'm asking is had a 2010 6.4L come in with a lack of heat thermostats and EGR cooler done 5,000km ago. Pulled thermostats, found one had come dislodged and was crooked in housing, front cover pitted so replaced thermostats, front cover, water pump. First roadtest I had coolant vent out of degas bottle, which had never happened previously, so replaced the degas bottle cap and retested that's when it overheated, with no cabin heat. Vacuumed system no help, Pulled heater hoses off at plastic tube RH of engine, no flow... pulled hose off top of EGR cooler that goes to degas bottle and reved up engine, with no flow coming out of that either... Just haven't came across a 6.4L with spun water pump impellers like the 6.0L before but don't know what else it could be.

It will make the other 7 liters on its own. haha.

Hahahha. One was playing softball sliding into 3rd base broke an ankle. One was a dirtbike broken collar bone, and one was christmas break falling down stairs, broken ankle. All within 3 months. I think the only one that involved crazy bush party tackticks was the falling down stairs.

ive got a lovely 2008 F550 CPR truck with Vmac compressor with turbo drain leaking, half of the bypass thermostat metal disc broke off grooved up the front cover, broken exhaust studs, leaking turbo uppipes. Waiting to get in the shop an international 60 some passenger bus with coolant leaks, F550 making oil low compression(have done valve cover off leak test with nothing found so fingers crossed its the HPP seal leak), fiesta with no reverse, freestar recall. Sucks being down 3 techs with broken limbs.

Thanks for the link Keith. I apologize for doubling up on it.

Manager handed me a sheet today of a diesel oil additive specifically made for a 6.0 diesel to cure some stiction issues. Take a look at www.hotshotssecret.com and tell me what you think. Or if you have used the product how did it work? I think it could possibly work for some of the cold start problems due to stiction but would like to have a few test runs with it before i start recommending it. Would be cheaper than injectors and worth a try on a vehicle that needed injectors IF it worked.

Got my first 6.7 with gold coolant in it today!! Nitrite levels 1600PPM. 117,000KM and customer just recently had a coolant flush done at a quicky lube joint(claimed they used compatible coolant) no side effects of it yet that i know of just noticed on the oil change and when checking the additive.

For those of you that have heard one a loud noise like this how loud is to be considered normal? The customer has noted it seems to happen more when its cold and can hear it in the cab with the radio on at times. I drove with the customer today radio off and could hear the faint noise in the cab, customer states it gets much worse so will be back in the morning. Says the oil is about 1 inch overfull as well states it doesn't smell like fuel. I did do a oil change end of july customer has probably around 4000-5000KM on the oil now.