fergy12

Sorry for reviving an old thread but does someone have the cylinder mass values of a good running engine? I’ve got a 6.7 right now threw fuel limit codes for 3 cylinders (5,7,8). did all the pinpoint test to no real conclusion, relative compression good, manual power balance has cylinders 4 and 6 slightly higher than the rest but those cylinders not tossing codes. No driveability issues. Did the TSB for clearing fuel values and crank position sensor. Vehicle returned to have injectors done, rechecked codes, now have codes for cylinder #2, #6 and #8. Cleared the fuel values again and 3 cylinders are up around that .03-.07grams range, the rest are in the -.03- -.06. No real evidence of metallic flakes in lower fuel housing. vehicle does have bully dog tuner, IQA all correct, dyed diesel (farm fuel) that the customer states they use additives in at all times, latest programming I removed tuner, updated pcm, reloaded tune last visit. im thinking the cylinder mass pids should be +-.05grams or less, more in the range of +-.03 as stated above but just curious as to what you guys are seeing. I tried to find another 6.7 to compare and unfortunately don’t have one at the moment. Thanks.

Had the exact same thing on a 2008 F350. Intermittent 4x4 flashing light, intermittent clunking and banging from transfer case, and one other thing, happened only when raining or wet. Wires rubbed in that exact location, about 5 or 6 of them.

okay that's something i'll look into. on the frequent regen, With the high crankcase pressure readings i was getting (12-14"H20, suspecting turbo, with CAC tube discononnected crankcase pressure drops) Now opinions or better yet personal experiences, high crankcase pressure causing excessive regen? (skewed maf readings, oil mist entering intake system due to excessive blowby) I will be doing a manual compression on this truck either way. Lately the old compression tester and crankcase pressure tester have been getting a workout, and usually ends badly on the 6.4. I apologize I kind of took this post off of the original question, but I use pretty much all the same pids mentioned above, never knew what the DPF time pids were for. Your power balance diagram looks somewhat similar to one I just have all tore apart in my bay. Ran fine, vehicle had a miss cold, customer never noticed but threw code for cylinder #6 misfire. Now short term fuel trims hot all within +-10. cold cylinder #6 11-15. Hot with fuel rail pressure cranked up to 15,000psi, I got a small drop like you see from cylinder 2, and 4, and a slightly larger drop from cylinder #6. Cylinder #5 was overcontributing similar to what cylinder #3 is doing in your diagram. So I had #5 Overcontributing and #6 Undercontributing similar to your diagram, just different cylinders. Relative compression passed, Manual compression #6 320-330 psi, 2,4,8- 340psi, 1,3,5,7-360PSi. All in all pistons touched valves, bent rods slightly, scored cylinder wall slightly. DPF delete so can't tell ya if it had frequent regen.

Wow am I ever glad we are on this topic, I have 2 2008 6.4L that have me scratching my head and loosing money the last few weeks. First is a 2008 ambulance, came in wrench light on, check engine light on. Codes P2463, P246C, and a DPF pressure sensor circuit range performance (cant remember which one) Attempted manual regen 3 times, would not regen, attempted roadtest regen, went into regen but kicked out of regen coming up with codes P2463 and P246C. Replaced the DPF due to being clogged, reset DPF tables cleaned out Map sensor, inspected EBP tube and sensor no restrictions, and replaced the MAF due to not reading 0G/s at KOEO. Roadtested this vehicle it worked fine, DPF pressure at idle .06-.15, load status indicating clean the whole roadtest. Get back to dealer shut vehicle off, turn key on to do a KOEO test all pass. Turn key off then start vehicle to do a KOER test begin test and notice instrument panel says drive to clean exhaust. Cancel KOER test, go into datalogger, DPF load state clean,distance since last regen requested 27Km... what gives? IC says drive to clean but PCM according to IDS did not initiate request. KOEO codes now P2463. Cleared code, codes returned with freeze frame data 1 second after startup, 700RPM. So back into datalogger watching DPF pressures and voltages at idle .51V, Pressure .15psi with no erratic readings, 0psi KOEO. Crankcase pressure at 10"H20, but doubting that's an issue 1 second after startup. Its just baffling because everything that should set that code has been replaced. Second one has been awhile since I looked at, it was frequent regen, every 100-150km highway driving. No codes, enhanced injector balances all looked okay, New MAF, MAP, EBP no change. Would complete regen just fine. Only thing I have really found with that one is Crankcase pressure is high at 12-14"H20. Hotline thinks its not a 3/4 full DPF so been driving this thing for weeks trying to figure it out. Thanks for posting the above readings, it gives me a little something to reference to as normal readings. Have had a few DPF issues prior, injector issues, oil issues but these two are kicking my a**. Any ideas or experiences with related symptoms and fixes are much appreciated!

Had one similar with burnt up direct clutch scoring on balance piston and nicked up seals. Fluid was burnt. Only trouble i'm having now is getting the Forward and Direct clutches to air test properly. If I used tonnes of Vaseline I can get a thud out of them for a few applications, other than that I just hear crossleaks.

This is an oldie but thought id comment on my experience with one today, customer complaint of lagging on acceleration from a stop intermittently, and will have dead pedal intermittently, intermittent rough idle. Checked codes code P0299, All PIDS, ICP, EBP all appearing normal, Noticed when did occur EBP was 17-18PSI VGTDC-85% before accelerating and when it didn't lag on accel was getting 15-16psi VGTDC-75-80%. So after swapping a VGT with no change. EGR test pass, Turbo test pass. Fumbled around some more looking at pids thinking possible turbo sticking, but turbo was done a year ago... pulled out EBP looked okay but replaced anyway went to start it up and it wouldn't start. Checked ICP voltage .55V KOEO, wiggled the sensor around with no change, after about 2 minutes it dropped back to .24. So Replaced ICP sensor as well, roadtested and runs good now! Not entirely sure whether it was the EBP causing the higher EBP readings, or a bad ICP skewing VreF readings causing those erratic readings.

Got it tore apart today and sure enough, the water pump impeller is just spinning freely on the shaft, whether it contacted the front cover then broke loose or broke loose then contacted the front cover is unknown.

Hello everyone! Just wondering if anyone out there has had a new 6.4 water pump fail? Reason i'm asking is had a 2010 6.4L come in with a lack of heat thermostats and EGR cooler done 5,000km ago. Pulled thermostats, found one had come dislodged and was crooked in housing, front cover pitted so replaced thermostats, front cover, water pump. First roadtest I had coolant vent out of degas bottle, which had never happened previously, so replaced the degas bottle cap and retested that's when it overheated, with no cabin heat. Vacuumed system no help, Pulled heater hoses off at plastic tube RH of engine, no flow... pulled hose off top of EGR cooler that goes to degas bottle and reved up engine, with no flow coming out of that either... Just haven't came across a 6.4L with spun water pump impellers like the 6.0L before but don't know what else it could be.

It will make the other 7 liters on its own. haha.

Hahahha. One was playing softball sliding into 3rd base broke an ankle. One was a dirtbike broken collar bone, and one was christmas break falling down stairs, broken ankle. All within 3 months. I think the only one that involved crazy bush party tackticks was the falling down stairs.

ive got a lovely 2008 F550 CPR truck with Vmac compressor with turbo drain leaking, half of the bypass thermostat metal disc broke off grooved up the front cover, broken exhaust studs, leaking turbo uppipes. Waiting to get in the shop an international 60 some passenger bus with coolant leaks, F550 making oil low compression(have done valve cover off leak test with nothing found so fingers crossed its the HPP seal leak), fiesta with no reverse, freestar recall. Sucks being down 3 techs with broken limbs.

Thanks for the link Keith. I apologize for doubling up on it.

Manager handed me a sheet today of a diesel oil additive specifically made for a 6.0 diesel to cure some stiction issues. Take a look at www.hotshotssecret.com and tell me what you think. Or if you have used the product how did it work? I think it could possibly work for some of the cold start problems due to stiction but would like to have a few test runs with it before i start recommending it. Would be cheaper than injectors and worth a try on a vehicle that needed injectors IF it worked.

Got my first 6.7 with gold coolant in it today!! Nitrite levels 1600PPM. 117,000KM and customer just recently had a coolant flush done at a quicky lube joint(claimed they used compatible coolant) no side effects of it yet that i know of just noticed on the oil change and when checking the additive.

For those of you that have heard one a loud noise like this how loud is to be considered normal? The customer has noted it seems to happen more when its cold and can hear it in the cab with the radio on at times. I drove with the customer today radio off and could hear the faint noise in the cab, customer states it gets much worse so will be back in the morning. Says the oil is about 1 inch overfull as well states it doesn't smell like fuel. I did do a oil change end of july customer has probably around 4000-5000KM on the oil now.

Next question... being that badly fuel contaminated would you just do a pigtail?? From what i see contamination goes further than a 2 wire pigtail. I can understand minor contamination.. but in the above picture thats more than a pigtail can repair effectively in my honest opinion.

Hotline has said they have had some reports but a pigtail is all that was needed. The first one that came in actually had blown the connector out of the switch and was shooting the fuel out of the switch. These 2 showed up within a week of one another. Doesn't sound like anyone else is running into them, so must not be to common of problem yet, hope it doesn't become one either. Can't remember if the switch number changed up or not. One truck had 36,000 km on it the other 70,000.

Anybody else seeing these switchs fail and leak, causing fuel to wick into the engine harness causing all the wiring to become a lovely mess of gooey insulation all stuck together? Have had 2 the last bit, where its leaked badly enough that a engine harness is the only way to repair properly. Just about done one, and i really don't enjoy doing the harness one bit. Hope the second one goes much smoother .

Do most of the transmission work at our shop, Usually don't break even by the time you order parts push it off your hoist cause parts are 7-10 business days away. But like mentioned above, id rather take all the time i need and know its done correctly and will provide the customer with years of trouble free driving experiences. Of course, i'm not doing transmission rebuilds daily, do them as they come in so make time on 6.0L diesel work when the transmissions aren't around.

Ive been doing these tests for free so far, i see the point of us having to charge something to re-coup our parts cost. I just think if we charge wouldn't the customer be obligated to just shut the light off and keep driving? Is it going to come down to whenever a 6.7L comes in for a coolant issue we are going to have to go back into history to ensure the customer has checked nitrite level at all the intervals necessary? If it is i better start making work orders on each one we do perform.

It has black maxx programmer with the DPF delete installed. I talked with the installer today and they said that it does not get rid of the RPM limiter. It is using the Mild setting and i'm still trying to find out exactly what the MILD setting does. Looks like it may increase the HP by 80 and give firmer trans shifts. Ford warranty has denied it seeing there are no signs of piston melting therefore it most likely isn't related to an injector issue. I pulled some valves out and they move freely in the guides. The installer is finding it hard to believe its the programmer thinking it has to be a mechanical engine problem causing the damage, and has contacted ford and is wanting us to resubmit the get a review of the situation again. And again i find myself sitting there staring at the engine wondering what the root cause was. The vehicle had ran fine for 60,000KM, then had the DPF kit and programmer installed. Then the customer had smoke problems and returned, they had forgot to program the tuner for the DPF delete. so did that, then he was having smoke issues again, that turned out to be a failed EGR valve, then he was having no start issues and had 2 injectors done at another dealership.

the valves are broke off. 2 exhaust valves and one intake, all 3 broke off in the intake/exhaust chambers with the keepers and springs still in place. the lifters move freely on the #6 and #8 cylinders. there is evidence of sticking valves on the opposite head in the form of slightly mushroomed valve tips. The rocker tips are also pushed in to deep most noticeable on the intake valves of most of the cylinders. pused almost flat with the body. and like i said previously indication of 5 other cylinder with piston to valve contact. Now it has a programmer and a DPF delete with no DOC but i have a hard time believing that piston to valve contact can be attributed to a programmer and exhaust mods.

Oil level was good using the short stick method, and doesn't smell terribly of fuel, got looking this morning and found piston to valve contact on 5 other cylinders no including the severly damaged one.

lol thanks for posting those pictures for me!!. Any guess on what happened first?? lol. can't seea injector problem causing this... as for the programmer, not sure. Nothing went through the compressor of the turbo. Had 2 injectors replaced at another dealer when the customer went to leave it wouldn't start, they got it started then the customer brought to us, it started fine, i suspected air in high pressure system from injectors, but relative compression was slightly low on one cylinder, manual compression tested ok, that was about 5000 km ago, and it ran fine when it left, and now its hooped...

Hello all. Ive got a 08 6.4 L in that the customer stated it began making noise, so he shut it off then it would not restart. Now i got it and it was only reaching 55psi of FRP. It also had a code for a #6 glow plug failure. Now i checked for filings in the HFCM, the secondary housing, and in the injector lines with them all having some shiny metal contamination, minimal water in HFCM. This vehicle also has a programmer. Now the problem is cylinder #6 has 3 broken valves, some of the debris has entered back into the intake and damaged pistons #2,#4,#8,#1,and #7. Pushrods all look ok, the rocker arms have the regular wear on the sockets, and i have also removed the High pressure pump and inspected for pitting inside and have found some, which according to hotline indicates water has gotten in there which is non-warrantable. Now the problem i'm having is finding out what exactly caused the valves to break? I could see water taking out the HP pump causing the contamination, and possible injector failure(vehicle has had 2 injectors replaced previously) but as far as breaking the valves i haven't been able to locate why it happened to determine if it is warrantable or not. Just looking for your thoughts, i did post some pictures in Photopost but was unsure how to post them here.