Jonathan302

We have a lot of problem here with snow packing in the air filter in winter. Maybe rain can make the filter to be wet enough to cause this concern Take a look on the air filter meter.

Thanks Fordtech03 I always put a new gasket when i need to remove the pump cover to do a repair. I don't want to do the job twice. I have seen wire rubbing against the pump on 2 truck before but i have always get a blown fuse and no start with this concern, but i will take a look closely on this one

Got one today with the P0088 and low power. Erase the code and the truck run fine for a couple of miles and then start again to lost power and the P0088 came back. Perform pinpoint test with no problem found, no air in fuel. One thing i had notice is the FPCV pids goes suddently from 46% to 20 % when the concern occur. I was thiking about the FPCV valve stick by intermittence. I request to hotline and to told me to check for air in fuel. I read here some of you had change the HP fuel pump with succes ...

Finally taking a ride with the 6.7 this afternoon. Wow The power is there and very smootly. Like Keith said before, the tire get loose so easy Nice job on that

They finally realased it in french, i go there in july.

I have seen bad HOP pump out of the box 1 time. What i have seen too, is a guy that clean the HP reservoir with a shop rag. Guess what... the shop rag shreds get caught by the rough casting in the reservoir. When he start it run fine, but it came back on the towing. The shop rag shreds had sealed the fuckin filter ... I have seen a long crank problem cause by an aftermarket oil filter, but never a no start.

I've seen that too. Remove the water pump and take a look to the front cover.

Yeah i notice that too ... we will need a 5 tons tranny jack to remove it

Check for rust under the CMP sensor, this can cause the P2614 and the no start.

Putting a tune in a 6.0L is the best way to destroy it ... Stay away from those things.

This is where it all begins ... They want to blowup this engine before he even see the dealership showroom floor. They should consider some reliability before being the ''king of the hill''

You are lucky to be able to loosen these bolt. 8 Truck/10 came in with these bolt so rusty you can'tell what size of socket you need to remove them. The only way they came out is by using the gaz wrench to cut these sucker I prefer to lift the intake than battle with these bolts. I also like the extra room to do a clean job when the intake is out.

400-425 here

Wow!!!! This is one of the stupudiest thing i ever seen

+1 check out for rust under these 2 sensors. I've seen that on a couple of 6.0l.(Thanks for the very salty road here in winter) The rust pust out the CMP or the CKP and lost the trigger signal espacially in cold weather. Take a closer look to the CKP since you lose RPM signal(CMP is likely to affect FICM sync pid) Try to carefully heat the CMP with a heat gun(to make it expand)Sometimes it works and save me to push or pull the fucking truck inside the garage

Protech,E-toolbox,Diesel literature

I have seen that one time. The electric pump on the frame was died and the truck still running. Low power but run fine. I replaced the electric pump and everything was fine.

If the truck ran on the ''summer fuel '' and it's cold enough outside, yes it can happen. Hook a fuel gauge and take a road test on a cold day to see what happen with the FP ...

Why not just hook a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve at the fuel cooler to see your fuel pressure on a cold start ?

In Canada we got the '' winter fuel blend '' ,so we rarely see fuel freezing. But sometimes it's happen,even with that blend. I think it's more about water and humidity contamination rather than fuel quality for us.

I notice that too Mike. They seem to wear very fast on some truck. I have seen one that even start to wear the retainer of the fulcrum.

Finally, i got it Thanks fot the tips Keith But it doesn't work on this fucker ... As soon i put pressure on drill the P.O.S goes back in the block. I have been able to pull it out by a lenght of a clothes hanger and push in trought the plastic part of the sensor. Let it cool 10 minutes and it goes out weld to my clothes hanger

Hi guys! Happy new year to everyone!!! I have a stuck cam sensor in the block. The engine is very very rusty and the sensor is stuck in the hole. I have pulled out the plastic part(between the 2 o-ring) but the metal part(magnetic tip) is stuck in the hole. I have try to pull it out but with no succes ... I wonder if i push it rather than pull it, will it fall it way down to the oil pan or it will be stuck in the block between 2 moving parts Any idea,suggestion, tips or tricks here before i blow that sucker with TNT I know i can pull the engine and make my way to remove it but if there is an easier way ... Thanks in advance

Cab lift is the way for me to But it's not always possible with the nice accesory some customer put on their truck