fordtech03

I agree about the low pressure reading may not be correct until it starts. I'm leaning towards injector O-rings myself, that would explain a lot of the symptoms. Ford hotline suggested checking for it leaking past the injector spouts, though me and none of the other diesel techs here had really run into that. It's always been a case of bad injector doesn't pump oil out spout or it flows continuously while running.

I've got a 1996 7.3, previous tech had taken the motor out to reseal the oil pan and replaced the oil cooler O-rings. Customer comes to pick up vehicle and it doesn't start. Got it to start, low pressure oil was very slow to build, about 30 seconds or more of cranking before it registered on gauge, HP oil slow to build as well. IPR was about 51%. Once started vehicle has about 15-20psi LP oil @hot idle, and it smokes badly, definitely oil. clears up a little after driving but still smokes at all times. Shut it off, if you try to immediately re-crank it will start. Let it sit for 10 minutes and it goes back to a long crank, slow to build LP/HP oil. Checked the reservoir and it was full, though I suspect it may be leaking down slowly, overnight. I think I may have more than one problem going on, thoughts?

2013 F450 with the tank delaminating, low fuel rail pressure. Here we go again...

I've been having the same trouble with them breaking also. Today I tried using the Snap-On Cordless 1/4" drive impact gun model CT-65, with a deep 8 mm on it. The gun doesn't have enough torque to snap the bolt off, bolt by holding it on and just letting it "impact" it I was able to break both of them loose with no trouble. It probably took a good 30 or 45 seconds, but it was better than the other result.

Thanks, I'll take a look around for it again today, all of us in the diesel shop are new hires here so most likely the tool walked off in someones toolbox. Thanks for the part numbers, I'll get it ordered if it doesn't turn up today. We've tried a couple ways to get it off, with no luck. We were hoping that maybe the lifter would bleed down a bit if we left it up on the lobe overnight. Wishful thinking...

What's the trick for getting the rockers off if we don't have the Ford tool for compressing the valve springs down? The lifter is on the base circle of the cam for the one we are trying to remove, and doesn't seem to want to pop out. Any tips?

The pistons looked fine....went to turn the motor over by hand and realized only #1 and # 2 were moving. Dropped the pan and it was full of metal from the bearings, a few various chunks of piston and crankshaft...It had twisted and snapped the crankshaft in front of the main cap, oil pump was busted of course. Got a "short" block for it with heads seperately because that how Ford warranty wants it now, they are really pushing these "ROBUST" shortblocks now.

Just an update..we replaced the oil pump, the rocker bridges and the push rod as per Ford's recomendation. It had a bit of a "knock" to it but ran fine....released to customer, of course we told them it would be back eventually. It is sitting in my bay again :-) Motor is locked up, got he RH head off, all 4 valves contacted the piston, pulling the other head on Monday in hopes of a longblock instead of one of these "robust" short blocks....so far even after seeing the valve contact marks on the piston there is no obvious damage to the head.

I came across this thread while researching one that I have in my bay now... #2 pushrod is bent(exhaust valve), rocker is loose, tip is worn but I have no base oil pressure.The Hotline said to replace the valve train components and check for a rotated lifter...but we are thinking just a failed lifter will not cause a 0psi reading on base oil. The vehicle is under warranty so my service manager isn't really wanting to hang any parts on it just yet for fear of the claim getting kicked if it needs some major repairs after replacing these parts. The truck will run, I have 0 psi reading on my gauge coming off the EOT tap, the filter housing eventually fills with oil, but not when just cranking the motor over. Took the pressure regulator out and it seemed to be ok. I'm thinking that maybe the valve train failure sent some junk in to the pump and cracked the gears or something causing the base oil concern...anyone else ran into something like this?

Air hammer only way to go on those....that puller is a pile of over-engineered junk.

I take that back, we had an F-series show up yesterday...........

I don't kmnow if this helps or not, we had a 2011 F450 gas motor come with the same code, I tried the parameter rest as well and was unable to restart the vehicle. I went and erased all known keys then reprogrammed the keys and was able to restart the vehicle....perhaps it is a bug in the IDS/PATS side?

Thats funny that you mention that, now that I think about it we have always seen E-series here...

We were saying it almost looks like a cover up to address all the problems that have cropped up so far, it just sounds fancier as a "added power" recall instead of a various driveability concerns recall....hahaha. It's Fords way to keep it all hush hush and out of the spotlight

Sounds like our shop dkachma

WOW!

So the Tech working next to me does one of these repairs yesterday, replaces the half, truck runs fine for about 20 minutes, and then develops a miss, has 4 cylinders dropped evenly, I don't recall the exact ones,2 on each bank. He swears everything was connected etc...Put a new unit in ( entire FICM )and everything is good? I saw the Main control board when he had it all apart, no obvious signs of damage.Fortunately it was a waranty repair so the cost of the second FICM will be a little easier to absorb. I can see already if I get one of these as a CP job, it's getting the whole unit.

Both of those trucks are used for towing, and I live in a hilly area so the owners are definitely a bit upset when they go to forced limited power pulling a loaded tralier up a mountain. I watched the MGP plot, it was holding over 29 psi before it turned the wrench light on. Thing is, is I had to really lay into it to get it to do it, it's the best we can come up with to "somewhat" duplicate the conditions they are driven vice towing a loaded horse trailer while we are testing....lol.....this is basically the same way we would check for bad head gaskets, we have one mountain in particular that makes them puke everytime if they are bad.

Nice

I've seen two trucks in the past week that set the P0234. The MAP and EBP sensors were within spec and working as the should. Basically you have to go and run these hard till you get the EOT up around 205 and it will overboost under a hard load, typically uphill holding to the floor. ON both vehicles the VGT actuator tip was severely worn down off to the side of the tip, and the arm inside the turbo had a nice wear pattern in it. After disassembling the turbos the CHRA and unison ring had to me it seems about the normal amount of carbon and rust(mild) that we typicaly see on these, the vanes moved freely with no apparent sticking. Truck #1 got a new turbo and actuator and road tested just fine. Truck #2 had both on order for tomorrow. Is anybody else seeing these comeing in after the latest calibration? I was getting over 29psi under load at 80mph.

Yeah, really....I had to look too...lol

We've been sending the intakes out and getting them hot tanked over night to clean all the gunk out of them when we do a cooler replacement. it is more down time granted, but less of a problem with a comeback. Had a situation happen with a customer that was very similar to yours, piece of carbon would break loose and intermittently foul the EGR valve.

Yes, look real close at the 2 wires on the pump harness too if it isn't the updated one with the tubing around them. They rub against the HP pump and will cause a short. Hotline is a waste of time anymore it seems...I got the guy fresh out of 6.4 school or something, he was like the cheerleader for "The Robust 6.4" he called it...lol....freaking killin me........

I've seen some of the junk aftermarket filters do that. Was that still in place with another filter?

I've seen the 6.0 oil pans do the same thing. It was on a Reman motor too? Coincidence?