Matt Saunoras

I pull that y shaped intake duct out and pull the degas bottle/air cleaner over that way without draining any coolant

I've been bench bleeding them and after installing having someone push down the pedal while I crack both lines simultaneously. Doesn't take much longer but it works and I'm happy. I wouldn't care if we weren't pushing aside my customers and my reputation because we can't hire a general tech. I guess that is not my decision though

I've been doing all the F-150 master cylinder recalls. Yesterday I did a fuel pump in a 4.8 Savana. Oh and today I did put a new wastegate solenoid in a 1.6L escape and programmed some keys in a 2000 ranger. AND a bunch of other crap I can't remember. While 5 trucks wait to be worked on like they're not so important. I am going to explode soon and I'm not sure who is going to lose their job over it. My manager isn't doing much managing and I can't figure out if anyone notices.

Leon passed a few good tips to me for the 2.7L. Pay close attention to the way the chains are removed and installed. Do the 360 rotation just like the book says and it will work just fine. Also pay attention to the front cover oil gallery seal, mine was torn from the factory and needed replaced. It was tough to find in the parts catalog. You definitely don't want to tear this on the install I had trouble resizing the injector Teflon seals for some reason. installing the tool backwards on the injector first and sizing the seals from the inside worked fine. The seals are a 4 pack but you only need three.

I have rear pads and rotors to do on the phone companies 03 International 4200. The ABS tone rings are all rusted up causing false activation issues and an ABS light. I think this is common on the rears. The front tone rings look nearly new. They also complained that it stalled out once and set an electrical system light. I pulled several codes for ECU power supply. I looked over all the powers and grounds and they appear okay . They did already jumper the one melted connector in the battery box.

So I've had a horribly rusted V10 (2v) dump truck in my one bay now for weeks the other guy here started on but couldn't finish. It's typical that I would have to extract any broken studs so we could move on reasonably quickly. I don't mind either as long as it gets done right. What we found on the left head was unbelievable. About 8 out of 10 holes were drilled and helicoiled. NONE of them were straight. #9 top hole was about 1/2" in diameter and way off center. #8 top hole was drilled all the way into the exhaust port. You could actually see where it was leaking out of the stud hole. Putting a head on this thing would be a major chore, I couldn't imagine what kind of headaches we'd encounter, for now I was told to make my best effort at fixing (band aiding) the head. For this job I picked up a m8x1.25 big-sert kit and ten 16.7mm inserts. I was able to get an insert and a bunch of JB weld in the #8 hole. For the #9 hole I ran a 1/2" bolt with epoxy on it, let it cure, cut it off flush with the head, and redrilled/tapped for the M8 stud. The rest I was able to get new threads tapped for the big-serts. They're all relatively straight and centered thanks to the beydler drill guide. I can only hope this outlasts the truck. The M8x1.25 big sert uses a M10x1.5 STI tap and the same 13/32 drill, I found that convenient. I did have to cut and regrind a 13/32 bit to fit in there however. The stubby bit included in the kit was still too long. And yes that is red threadlock, no more redo's on exhaust manifolds with this thing. I hope that if there is a next time, that guy is just as surprised as I was.

Last time I had one that failed the glow plug mist test the fuel system was full of metal. I replaced one injector before I realized what was going on and the system would still not build pressure

Make sure the trans mount is still in one piece. I found a few of these that no one else could figure out what was going on

Got another one here I had to dig this thread out for. Someone did headgaskets and jammed the main harness down in between the front cover and left head. The ignition power to the ficm torched the whole wire from the short all the way to the body connector. Never blew the fuse or hurt any other wiring.

I checked in the book and it says the pump contains a non-serviceable "lifetime" filter. I had one here I was going to take apart but ultimately I said fuck it and threw it out. Also the one I did was fixed by a rail, 8 injectors and a tuneup. There wasnt much water in the tank

I wasn't honestly in contention anyways. I was 12th in the group and I've missed too many questions to catch up. Our FRTFT it in the toilet too

Some say some of it was working and others say nothing was working. All I know is I missed my PTS questions for October

I've got some really butchered up heads on this 2 valve v-10 getting a redo on a previous exhaust manifold job. Numerous helicoils that aren't holding anymore and one hole on the right side that is about 1/2" in diameter and equally as deep. Someone really fucked this thing up. The best part of it? Most of the helicoiled holes are shallow drilled and still contain some of the original fastener.

Damn. I spent Saturday doing a warranty cab and chassis turbo so we could have it done for the end of the month. Doesn't matter now I can't look up labor ops for it

Got a cab and chassis 6.7 with an overboost code, another bus with a coast clutch drum and a 2 valve v10 with some rotted exhaust manifolds. Edit - the turbo vanes are froze solid on this 6.7 turbo. I put a turbo in it today and all is well. You can't magnet test the VGT piston in the vehicle like a 6.0 but once the turbo was out on the bench I was unable to move the piston at all with my 4lb magnet. The vanes were frozen closed. Commanding VGT while idling showed no change in MAP or EBP. When I pulled it around the building VGT duty cycle % would drop into the teens almost instantly which shows current vane position wasn't producing desired EBP. Freeze frame showed boost at 41 PSI when the P0234 set. I believe EBP was in the 70 psi range (not absolute). This was the first 6.7 turbo I've seen with the vanes stuck. The truck is a 14 with 45k miles on it.

I've got a couple newer super duty blower motor controllers lined up

Don't know what to do with this one. The service manager doesn't want to do it if we can't get paid and regardless of which way I do it I'm going to be way over on time. This company hasn't brought me any work in a while but they once were my best fleet customer. They didnt buy the truck here but only because of the way it's upfitted

Years ago I hooked up an IDS to a Saleen mustang to pull ACM DTCs. The IDS prompted me that the vehicle had a unique PCM identifier and to enter the VIN/tear tag. Not knowing any better I did so and it instantly started reprogramming the PCM. I yanked the cord but it was too late. That PCM had to get shipped back to Saleen. They did take care of me free of charge but not without a ton of bitching over the phone. I learned the hard way if you have a PCM unique identifier you need to manually start a session. I just had one with a roush that needed keys programmed.

Hey guys I've got a customer with a fully loaded 15 F-550 that would like to schedule an appointment for an upper oil pan reseal under warranty. The problem I have is there's no way I can lift this truck high enough to get the trans out the bottom. Would it in any way be acceptable or would you ever try to M-T this repair for a partial cab lift and engine removal out the front?

Yeah all I did was run the ring in until it contacted the pinion. Ran the other adjuster in until it took all the side to side movement away. Then backed off the first one while tightening the second until my backlash came into spec. I turned each adjuster in a little more until the cotter pin would fit and left it at that. It may have been a hair tight but with new bearings I suspect it'll be okay. All noise is gone too

I went in today so I could play with that S-110 uninterrupted. The book isn't clear on how much side bearing preload so I just winged it. Set my backlash to .012" and ran a pattern. I think it came out okay. I did put new side bearings in it. The cotter pins I was missing are on backorder and only a few dealers in the country had them. We actually had to drive over 50 miles one way to pick a pack up. Once they got back and I saw them I realized they're absolutely nothing special. They measured the same as some bulk ones we had. Oh well, live and learn!

This F450 with the Dana S-110 is missing the cotter pins that hold in place the side bearing preload adjusters. The adjusters obviously worked themselves way out

Got a 6.0 f-series here with oil in the coolant. Customer scheduled the appointment a week out and I have a feeling he drove it the whole week before he brought it in. It's the worst I've ever seen. Also got a nearly new 16 F-450 tow truck here. It has a rear speed sensor code and a horrible driveline vibration on accel. Very noticeable coast howl too. With the speed sensor out I can pry the whole carrier side to side about 1/8".

I did one recently that had oil all the way to the 4wd vacuum solenoid and it stopped there. The solenoid was packed shut with dirt. Didnt think anything past that though unfortunately. (I am constantly denied up selling warranty) Sadly this truck will probably return with repeat failure of the pump. I told my service manager about what you posted and he's not sure if we'll retroactively bring the customer back or not. Most likely he'll forget in a day. I feel horrible I wasn't able to address the root cause but I guess I'll live

Well fuck! How the hell are we supposed to know that in order to perform an effective repair? Leon did you hear about this somewhere or did you figure it out on your own. I'm sure ford would be very interested to know this