Matt Saunoras

The other guy here had a 6.4 with a high pressure turbo failure and never bothered to check the oil. Replaced the turbo and by the time he got about 4 miles from the shop the turbo was junk and the low oil pressure light was on. No liquid oil in the pan

I saw a 6.4 wrecker go 17k miles until the high pressure turbo bearings failed. The best part was I had shortblocked it 17k prior, it never got one oil change. That shortblock did not last, it wound up having internal issues causing flexplate failure.

We got about an inch here in western PA. The wind has blown most of it away. Nothing like they predicted

Well the new guy started today.....but he doesn't have a drivers license

I am in south western PA and for now it's just lightly snowing

I've got an E-450 bus here the customer insists it's got a vibration between 55-60 in 6th gear but it goes away if you neutral it out. Now I did verify it on the highway and on the rack but I can't imagine what it is. It feels like it's right at the extension housing on the rear of the transmission. Someone very recently replaced the frontmost driveshaft u-joint. I removed the driveshaft and ran the vehicle back up to speed and the vibration while more faint, is still there. The whole shaft looks okay, no weights missing, dents, out of phase or anything like that. I checked previous hotline contacts for the symptom and suprisingly 2 popped up. Both seemed like the same concern, neither report was too helpful, and both seemed to be resolved by replacing the entire unit. I don't want to go that far I'd like to fix what it actually is. Before I go ripping this tranny out has anyone heard of or experienced anything like this?

Well it went down today. I did not quit but the other guy is leaving next week unless he gets the rate he was offered at the other dealer. It's a long shot, I'll be surprised if they give it to him. Honestly I learned a lot today. You have no friends in a dealer. I've been helping a guy who makes 15-20k more a year not only with repairs but by sucking up all the hard work. I expressed my concerns with management so there's no doubt everyone knows how I feel. If he stays I am going to leave. No more free ride on my hard work. They tried to reassure me that I'm the most important tech and blah blah blah they won't overwhelm me with work. The only way to know how that will play out is to wait and see. My service manager is too smart to beat btw. He hired a guy today knowing full on that one of us is leaving but he doesn't know who.

Well damn if I didn't find it today, luckily it confirms why I didn't find any metal in the fuel. The VCV was half unplugged from the gasket. The blue zip tie was installed but the connector wasnt locked prior to install. Never showed up during the resistance check of the 4-pin connector and it never set any codes other than P2291. I had 2.8 ohms of resistance until I wiggled the connector and it would go open. Perhaps this is why sometimes I would get good flow from the high pressure bleed tool and sometimes not. Also it almost starting makes sense too if the pump wasn't getting good volume. First pic is how I found the connector which would still show up with good resistance. Second pic was light tug on the connector, ziptie still intact. Honestly after all this work it's still getting a pump. The PCV and VCV on the new pump have some kind of extra locking tab on the connector. The old pump doesn't have that. I'll take pics on Monday. My new pump came damaged in the box so I couldn't even get started back together today.

They do have an IDS which is a big bonus in my book. They get their parts from us and they buy A LOT of parts. They're in the process of putting up a new shop too, the current one is badly outdated which is one reason I haven't went there yet. The option to expand and work on some bigger stuff gets my attention too. I'm sure they would let me get my CDL on their dime.

I can count on one hand the number of 6.2s that actually came through the shop with a driveabilty problem. Couple of broken valve springs and one with water in the fuel.

You know, honestly I can't make up the shit that goes on here. It's almost too much to rant about. Long story short. I do not want to be the only certified tech in a shop that should have at least 4 (the most we've ever had was 3). I am not going to attempt to take out my service manager, he is going to do that on his own. I am going to request a fair price to stay and if not I have a job down the street at the construction companies fleet shop. They have more trucks than I work on in a year and they at least have some support...aka other techs in the shop.

I did put a tensioner on it. When I went to take the napa belt off and put a ford one on I noticed the tensioner didn't rotate in a straight line with the pulleys. That seemed suspicious to me so I left the napa belt on and put a tensioner on it. We drove it quite a bit today and released it back to the customer.

I checked it for metal coming out of high pressure bleed tool, also there is none in the secondary filter. I'll pull an injector line tomorrow if I get to it. I worked on it for a half hour today before the other guy called off and I got pulled to do his schedule

This one is getting a HPFP. I was relayed the wrong information and this thing was actually running for 2 weeks prior to it not restarting.

I've got an 07 with a 2.3L here that keeps throwing belts off. It was squealing real bad the other day so the tech replaced it with a napa belt. Ever since then it's thrown it off 3 times. Can't see anything wrong yet, going to try an OEM belt

The whole shop is about to walk out. Thursday the SMT I work with is putting his 2 weeks in, he's got a better offer somewhere else. I can't and won't do his job so I'm leaving unless the service manager is fired. That would leave no certified guys left in the shop. Less than a year ago the SM brought his junkie kid in to wash cars and here we are last month giving him a service advisors job and propelling him into stardom. The kid can barely string together a sentence. Meanwhile our actual advisor/warranty administrator needed to take a medical leave of absence and my manager forced her out into damn near nothing for his own personal agenda. She's still the warranty admin part time but they didn't even give her an office. He's a snake, he's tried his hardest to pin us all against each other. I've never done this before but we're going to see who's the most important part of the shop.

Well I dug into it some more......and I burned up the starter It doesn't seem to be a fuel delivery issue or inlet restriction. So once I get a starter in the morning I'm going to be doing the balloon test and mist test. After that I should have enough info to throw a hpfp in it. I did try cranking it with the FRP unplugged. That made for some odd noises but it didn't even come close to starting

That's all we sell are gassers.

Perhaps, I don't have my eye on the low pressure gauge while cranking because it's down by the frame. I think I'll get a chance to dig into it more tomorrow

You mean a 6.4L right? Those are 6.7 secondary filters cut open to expose the element

A little late but here is the collapsed wix secondary filter I found in a 6.7 a few months ago. On the right is an OEM ford filter

It's like as soon as it tries to run it shuts off. Its so predicable it makes suspicious that it's fuel pressure related.

I need a little refresher course on 6.4 fuel systems. I'm starting to feel like I never diag'd one before. To start I have a 08 F-550 with a ZF-6 towed in from the construction company down the street. They just dumped in a 6007 bought over the counter from us and it won't start. Now it's been a while for me but weren't 6.4 completes dyno tested and ran before shipping? If that is the case it seems odd to me that this one won't light off from the very beginning. It's not like this thing ran for a bit and died, it's simply never ran. At first it acted like it was air locked but I've been through a dozen cranking sessions now with no avail. The first couple cranking bursts I wasn't getting any fuel flow from the high pressure bleed tool. This prompted me to remove the secondary filter, turn the key on and watch it fill with fuel, which it did. I checked low fuel pressure and it's right at 8 psi which is good because they just put in a new low pressure pump too. It seemed like every time I cranked it I would reach a different FRP and stay there. Say one time I cranked it would hit 1100 PSI then the next time a few minutes later it might only hit 400 psi. That was a few days ago and I gave up at that. Today I started messing with it again and the first time I cranked it for a good 10-15 seconds I had good flow from the bleed tool which it did not have before. I really thought it was going to light off and it did for a split second and died. I did this no less than a half dozen times. It would crank for 10 seconds, hit right about 2900 psi, start for a split second and die. Every time. I captured a recording of it reaching 600 RPM so it was running. However it is definitely not reaching desired FRP. While cranking the fuel from the bleed tool is flowing pretty clear towards the end where it starts and dies. Sync reads yes, RPM is 170 steady, FRP is .50v KOEO, I tried wiggling the wire and tapping the sensor through the valvecover opening but no change. I checked a bunch of other pids to see if anything looked biased but I didn't see anything unusual. The only DTC it sets is P2291. I have not made it to the balloon test or glow plug mist test yet. I'm trying not to get too intrusive until I think about this some more. What I did find odd was it will do the same thing with the MAF unplugged or plugged in. I may be remembering this wrong but wouldn't a 6.4 not run with no MAF sensor? I seem to remember trying to start them in the past with the air box out and it wouldn't work. Another thing I know about this truck is it has had 3 DPFs in the last 3 months. They got a DPF for it, then wanted that one SPW'd for DPF codes P2463/P246C so we gave them a new one. Now they just got a complete engine and another DPF. I may be thinking about this too much but I know I've had DPF codes like P2463 and P246C generated from a bad MAF sensor.

Okay I believe this pan reseal will go better than the last one. I got the front cover lined up properly, the bottom is flush with the block. I triple checked it with the straight edge. 2 things I did different this time. I removed the battery cable studs from the pan before install. Getting them back in with the pan in place was tricky but it's possible. Also I did a dry run putting the pan in place with no RTV. This let me check the depth and position of my alignment studs. I know one thing if you try and rush through this procedure it will fight you.

The 6.7 front crank seal remover did not work for me either. You know I found something interesting at the left lower timing cover gasket. The gasket looks chewed up for a lack of better terms like the material is not suitable for its purpose. The other thing I found was dried RTV towards the lower T joint but the WSM says nothing about putting any there