Matt Saunoras

Oh yeah I took a peak at a 2012 F-550 fire truck we sold new. Has a V10 and of course only a single battery. They want to add a battery and a heavier duty single alternator. Not sure how I'm going to approach this one. Probably make a thread about it soon.

Its such a damn shame I have these 2 nice bays with awesome lifts and not a thing to do. I can't remember being this slow. I extracted a single broken manifold stud on a 5.4 3 valve super duty today. I'm not working on it though, just another favor called in.

Not sure if the 15s are different but the steering wheel switches don't have left or right, just setup, info and reset. My best guess would be to hit reset to toggle from "yes" and "no" but really I don't know.

Another guy in the shop had an older 5.4 super duty with a coil bolt broken off in the aluminum intake manifold. Probably the smallest extraction ever but I got it with the MIG. #3, it was pretty easy to get to

Anyone here actually performed an operator commanded regen? I had a customer last week stop in to clear a DPF overload dtc and I printed out the OCR TSB/instructions and made sure it was enabled. Yesterday he called me and said when idling in park the instrument cluster prompted him to do a stationary regen. Basically said "do you want to clean exhaust filter" with a yes and no selection. He could not figure out how to scroll over to select "yes". With the XL steering wheel there are setup, info and reset buttons but the scroll left and right buttons are dummys. He said he could not select "yes" with any of these buttons. I told him I really had no idea since I'm not familiar with how the OCR is initiated. Anyone know?

Yeah that is a strong possibility considering nothing else was bent. I hadn't thought of that

So the 6.0 F-450 I put the ficm harness in last week remained here all weekend because they called me back late Friday and said they wanted it aligned.Now honestly, when I drove the truck I did notice the steering wheel was off 90 degrees to the right.... AND honestly I didn't care, I can't tell you how many times I've fixed this truck and it comes back beat up worse than before.So I'm underneath looking at the drag link thinking maybe they changed an end and didnt get it quite right. Then I notice the RF wheel is a different color than all the rest. So I get our other guy to give me a steering wheel shake while I check everything for play. The trac bar is moving a little bit, and it looks a little close to the tierod.Then I happen to notice the whole front axle is off center to the left by about 2" Needless to say a new trac bar and ball joint and the steering wheel is back to dead center. What happened to this poor truck I may never know.

I'm working on this oil in the coolant 6.0. Oil cooler, EGR cooler, rad, belt tensioner, hoses plus a turbo and intake cleaning. I've done a few fuel in the coolant flushes with Fleetguard Restore but this will be the first oil contaminated job. We'll see how it goes.

very nice

Sigh, haven't had a good ambulance job in a while. Fixed a hot no start with some dummy plugs today. Also fixed the chafed EBP connector, resealed the IPR and put some hot side cac boots on. Runs freaking great.

I'm all for making my own pigtails if possible (and cheaper). What kind of crimping tool would be needed to crimp terminals to a wire correctly?

I quote the high pressure pump, all injectors, both rails, FRP sensor (which is not reusable ever), secondary fuel filter housing, and both low pressure lines going to the HPFP. I will take the frame rail pump to the bench and clean it all out along with whatever tank is on the truck. Now is a good time to have a look at all the other stuff on the engine too, belt tensioner, coolant leaks, exhaust manifolds, etc that are real easy to fix with the cab up. Same goes for inspecting the rocker arms. I've been doing 25 hours lately.

Three 6.0s showed up tonight. One has oil flowing out of the coolant bottle. Second has a shorted out FICM harness and the third is a hot no start.

My bays are still empty. We must have sold 20 tires in the shop today and we're not a big dealer(we don't even stock any tires). All I really did was help guys mount and balance all day.

Oh man I hate those waiter diesel diag customers. Usually they show up without an appointment too.

Just thinking out loud. Are the fuel system DTCs cleared out of it?

Interesting Bruce. I hadn't thought about pallet racking. We do need a place for special tools

Nothing here or outside. Spent about 8 hours total between today and yesterday cleaning and throwing out junk. This has to be the cleanest it's been in the year and a half since it was built. We have basically no free space in this shop, hardly any benches or cabinets either. I hid a bunch of stuff in the one free space area we have....but you need a 10ft ladder to get to it

The EGR cooler is plumbed in series if it still has one. Even if an aftermarket one was welded wrong it has the potential to block flow from the cooler

Where did you find a Dana 80 with bigger hubs? Did these have 10 wheel studs?

The biggest problem I had changing that harness was accessing the 2 grounds bolted to each side of the block. The left size was tough with the lower rad hose in the way. Mine was a salt truck too, damn near burned up when the positive battery cable rubbed through on the front crossmember. Keith the first 2 repairs I made on that sense wire I did similar to you. I ran a new circuit right over to the left battery though. All the ones since then I've been able to find the break pretty easy.

Got one now. High resistance in the voltage sense wire causing it to intermittently overcharge. This one took a little head scratching because the customer insisted it only did it with a trailer hooked up. I can't find the exact break though but it's in the same spot so I'm just going to have to overlay about 2 ft of wire for now. Anyone actually ever change that battery cable harness? It's not fun. Here was how I actually verified the concern. For some reason the extra electrical load was enough to make it act up.

Also this code only applies to pickups. Hotline tipped me off to that along with the p041B I got on the following road test. This 15 cab and chassis I had did infact have a pickup calibration in it from the factory. Put the right cal in it and all is well. They're surely going to be complaining of a lack of power now. This thing hauled ass the first time I drove it.

With my 6.0 I could go about 400 miles on 30 gallons. 12-13 mpg seems about right. I can already tell the 6.7 is much better, it's still showing 18.0 mpg on the instrument cluster. They offered me $6k on trade in at my dealer which I why I still own my old truck. I need to get at least $8k for it. The body is the issue, can't hide the rust anymore

No dice. The early 11 cab and chassis hose is thin rigid plastic, won't bend without a kink. Called a body builder and they said any reinforced EPDM non metallic hose will work fine. I believe the ID is 1" but I can't be sure, everything I measure comes out slightly smaller.