Matt Saunoras

I have not personally experienced this but deal with a fleet that recently had this happen. I wasn't told how the truck ran but that it's losing oil pressure. This was after they put a sending unit and pigtail in it. Got them to order a pump, inspected the core when it came back and the ball was missing. This was a later build wavy rail 2004. I have read that this ball "failing" out is actually caused by a temporary reversal in flow causing high pressure oil to push backwards toward the reservoir which blows the ball out. I don't know if this is true or not. I have also read instances of no starts with the ball missing where guys have tried to tap and plug their old pump and the truck still wouldn't start. This supports the idea that something is wrong internally with the pump.

What was the code? The other guy I work with changed his tire size on his 14 and it was okay. I believe it just needed a BCM relearn for a P160A.He switched his tires from a 275/70R18 to a 295/70R18 and told me it didn't change his speed hardly at all. Switched to 275/65R20 in the IDS and the speedo was off even more than before he changed it so he changed it back.The difference between the tire size I have and what I'm going to is less than 1" in diameter. Not drastic at all. Also Zack, we both have 3.55 rear ends with factory 275/70R18 tire size. The only difference is mines a 250 and his a 350. I will at least try it and see. If it doesn't work I'll be the first to admit you were right.

I know, I can't pass them up but I'm going to hate buying new tires for 20" wheels when the time comes (same size as your outlaws). I need to check on the tire size parameters in IDS. Weren't there issues changing sizes on some new super duties?

Well still off topic I found a guy selling a set of 20" wheels and tires from a 2013 platinum. For $800 I think I'm making the 2 hour drive this weekend. Tires are 12-13/32.

I haven't been thru a drive thru in about 10 years. My car was obnoxiously loud, the truck quickly became that way. This one is a nice change

Hahaha I can relate to that! The power this new 6.7 has is night and day to a lightly tuned 6.0 too.

You mean you're not looking for a 6.0 Econoline?

The 6.0 has that classic diesel sound we've all grown to love. I will miss mine for sure, it was a good truck that ran every day I owned it. Did everything I could preventative and never really had a major issue thankfully. Tested out at least 6 turbo configurations on it. Hopefully the new one will be fine without all the work. I haven't seen a nice gray truck around yet, everyone seems to have black or white around here. Magnetic was hard to find, had to go over 300 miles away to get one. My second option would have been Caribou but that was even more rare. For my 6.0 I have machined heads, high tensile strength head studs, every gasket you can imagine, main engine harness, lifter kits, etc all saved up for it that I can now unload and pocket the money.

Yep just got in yesterday and signed the papers today. I put a few pics in the "What's in your bay" thread.

Worked on my own 6.0 all day. Taking it back to stock as much as possible. Put back in a stock turbo, FICM, calibrations, front driveshaft, trans pan and air filter.All ready to sell it and daily drive this.

Mine on the 300 mile trip back from the dealer trade is registering 18mpg. 3.55 gears and around a 33" tire.

Nothing I ever heard about. The only thing I am aware of are the 2 styles of hold downs that we all know of. T45 for commonized heads, T40 for non-commonized.Now there are 20mm non commonized heads if you bought a new Ford part ending in DA or ARM. They still take T40 hold downs. The best way to identify is the rocker box. They are not interchangeable (the dowels do not line up).13mm M10 rocker box bolts mean commonized heads.

I would prefer the 3.55 for basically anything SRW and a 6.7 regardless of tire size. I went with the 275/70R18s and 3.55 e-locker. The way that engine just plain runs I don't think you need gearing advantage. You'll just be breaking tire everytime it rains a little.

Wow that sounds like fun. The 6.0 here got a tester IPR and whatever I did disturbed something because now it's a plain no start with no sync or ficm sync. Our power was out for about an hour and just came back on.

I honestly like the eight spoke Lariat 20" wheels the best from what I've seen so far but other than that a Lariat doesn't do much for me. It's a shame you can't get those wheels with an XLT or I could build my ideal truck. Oh well a XLT premium package will have to do.

Got an 04 F-550 here towed in for a no start. Dragged it in the shop and it started and died 3 times before it stayed running. Captured a good recording of IPR ramping up while ICP couldn't maintain. Now it won't not restart. Even this morning after it sat a whole day it still fired right up. I guess I'm going to stick my tester IPR in it and go drive it around. Hopefully I won't have to get towed back

D-plan pricing plus super duty rebates are 4k right now. Don't ask how I know.

Also if anyone cares I installed a 6.7L EBP sensor for testing purposes and it behaved exactly the same as the DPFE-7 sensor the 6.4L actually calls for (I installed the correct one later). I saved the 6.7 sensor from an early EBP tube leak. The only difference externally I could see was the 6.4 sensor has International engineering numbers stamped in it and the 6.7 sensor does not. Otherwise same sensor, probably same vendor. .

You could get one hell of a nice super duty for that price too. F-150? No stinkin way.

Got a high miles 6.4 here that seems to not be able to make desired exhaust back pressure at idle. Ran all the normal pp test KA diag and verified with KA8 that EBP is not high enough with the engine at 1500 rpm and VGT at 90%. Now at the start of all this I did have a bad EBP sensor and a small tear in the hot side lower cac boot. Those issues have been resolved along with a calibration update, EBP tube cleaning, VGT solenoid swapped with a known good one, MAP sensor removed and cleaned. I even devised an EGR block off plate to rule out the EGR valve not sealing all the way. No change with anything. Crankcase pressure is well in spec also. Air filter is clean, DPF pressures are good, tailpipe is clean as a whistle. Hotline thinks a high side compressor cover cleaning is in order and if that doesn't work then put turbos in it. Anyone ever ran across this? Low EBP at low engine speeds? Otherwise the truck runs fine, I'm not sure if it will even set a P2263 while driving but it won't clear a P1000 after 30+ miles.

Got a new Hofmann alignment machine this week. Our alignment rack won't handle super duties well but this machine allows readings to be taken on the floor. Wheeled it right over to the truck and took measurements in my second bay.

^^^ I did the exact same thing with a 5.4 that came shipped with oil.

Wow that is awesome! I'm a big fan of the work truck look myself. I would have no issue daily driving a truck like that if I had a use for such a thing. I should be getting a new truck here soon also....

My buddy did something similar. Overfilled the oil in his 6.0 and it started causing VGT issues.

Injectors buzz a little louder and respond a little better. Not much more than that. I was skeptical at first too but winter time cold starts are improved. I also run aftermarket programming on my FICM in addition to the voltage increase. A 40hp FICM tune makes a nice difference too.