Matt Saunoras

I had one of these myself 2 weeks ago on that 03 F-550 bucket truck I pulled the engine out for headgaskets and a reseal. They were complaining of a hard start, no start cold but I couldn't verify it. Once the truck was dropped off it sat outside for 3 days before I had room to get it in. That's when I verified it. Start and shut off 3 times before it stayed running on the 4th try. Luckily I had read this thread and it stuck in my mind. Managed to capture a half decent recording of the ICP while it happened but didn't see anything to condemn the pump for sure. ICP was slow to build but that's about it. Once the truck was in I got side tracked and I didn't get to working on it for another day. Since the engine was coming out anyways I pulled all the front clip out, then the intake and the oil cooler to have a look. Sure enough the reservoir was half drained, similar to what you'd see if you lifted the pump out first before removing the oil cooler. After having a look at all the pump O-rings I didn't see anything that could cause a leak down. Put a new pump in it and the truck cold starts just fine now. Thanks Brad

I finished up my first 6.7 fuel system today on a 12 F-350. One of my better fleet customers that's constantly plagued by fuel problems. I also put an EGR cooler core in it and upsold the turbo fittings. I did change the fuel cooler and the frame rail pump in addition to the kit. My first impressions are not too bad. It's a lot of work but I wouldn't consider pulling the cab like I've heard about. The injector lines are hard to torque but it's not impossible. I had a little trouble lining up the marks on the cam and HPFP gear but atleast getting the pump out isn't hard. Next week got a set of 6.0 headgaskets and another F-550 bucket truck to look at. Oh wait....that's this week

I fought one of these for no less than an hour today, while going back together on one I'm doing a fuel system on. Needless to say i'm pretty pissed off because everything up to that point was going well. I tried grease first, then sanding the housing, then sanding the filter a little. Nothing worked. I tried the old NAPA filter and it fits fine. I saved an old metal filter base from the last 6007 I did and used that. If I wasn't so tired I would take a sledge to this plastic base. Office Space style.

Nice, I haven't worked on a van 6.0 in a while.Had an interesting one today. Ever wonder what would happen to a 6.0 if it had 2 batteries but they weren't hooked to each other? Had me scratching my head for about 10 minutes. The right side will charge and start the veh but the left is needed for veh power and will eventually deplete itself.

Has anyone just tried clearing the DPF tables? I believe I read an SSM stating to do so if this message appears after the recall has been performed.

Hahaha I watched our other guy soak himself in coolant the other day while carrying a cooler to the bench. I always make a path of absorbent mats straight to an oil drain right by the headlight to set it in.

Usually if there's a recall coming we see an advanced notice long before the parts are available.

Anyone know what's going on with the super duty 4WD knuckle seals? 5C3Z-3254-A was the single seal, cost was $36.03 but it's been on backorder for a few weeks now. 5C3Z-3254-B a new kit that supposedly supersedes "A". It contains the seal, wheel bearing o-ring, axle shaft snap ring, and wheel bearing studs + nuts. Last week cost was $.86 but it's since been adjusted to $12.33. These are now available but are emergency order only. We got 2 of these kits to have in-stock but with the pricing discrepancy my parts guy is afraid to sell them. Then out of nowhere two "A" seals show up from Ford yesterday even though none are shown in the country and they were supposed to be obsolete (now today they're not superseded). For the hell of it I had my parts guy check the locator for the "B" kits and our nearest competing dealer showed 60 in stock! With the price of one kit only being $12.33 I had parts pick me up 2 kits and sold him my personal "A" seals. Made about $40 in the process. This is ridiculous.

I don't take that tube out. I take the bracket bolt out so the tube will give a little then slide the upper intake past it. It only has to move maybe 1/8" to let the intake through. No issues doing it this way so far. I do take the hot side duct out, not sure if the book has you doing this or not. I've had problems in the past with 6.4s and cutting those pink coolant tube orings.

Yup, we were in some warranty trouble for a few months so I was instructed to clear the P401 codes and let the trucks go. Didn't really solve anything, just delayed the repair a few weeks. Luckily we didn't make anyone mad in the process.

Wow that thing is a brick. I've done a lot of EGR coolers and none were plugged up solid like that. The P0401 is common but I've never gotten a P2457 KOER. I just run the claim through as the TSB anyways, they know there's a problem.

Possible rocker box gasket? I have seen those leak only on e-series.

I had one of these not long ago. P120F and 2 contribution codes but ran okay otherwise. Had metal in the fuel and a rusty sending unit. The FRP is probably getting contaminated edit - to elaborate further I did wind up selling a fuel system on it and the truck has been fine ever since. I always change the under cover harnesses too

2 broken manifold studs on the front right of a 4.6 3v explorer. Got both them out with the MIG but not without trouble, very hard to get the gun in there and see what you're doing. This ain't in my bay either, they had one of the younger guys start it but I ended up just finishing it.

6.0s and 6.4s haven't given me any problems yet you just have to worry about sticking to the head since it's ferrous and so is what you're welding. About 5 years ago when I was still pretty new at this I pulled a broken tap and the remaining stud out of a head for the other guy I work with. It's funny because he'd seen me weld a few broken studs out and he still didn't want to ask for my help, now he doesn't even have to ask, no one here does haha. update - got the last stud out on the left side. First try with the MIG. Time to go back together finally.

Yeah it's been tough, mostly on my confidence. For a long time there was none I couldn't get out with a welder. Last week alone I pulled out a broken stud from the rear of a 3.0L escape and an up-pipe bolt from a 6.7 manifold. Zero troubles with those.Even with a drill guide I'm am still leary about using threaded inserts on a cylinder head, probably because of my lack of experience with it. Once you go up in size there's no going back.That being said I put a timesert in the top front of the right head today and it went off without a hitch. This was kind of difficult to do because of the location but it went well. I wish Beydler CNC made an M8 STI tap guide. I may email them about it. Use the drill guide with a deeper bushing to help guide the tap in straight. This is my biggest fear, starting the tap crooked because you can't use a tap wrench, my tap sockets and a ratchet were used which is not ideal. I started the threads with a spiral point plug tap and finished it with a bottoming tap. I'll post more pics later of the different STI taps I have and what the purposes are.

These damn manifold jobs just keep getting worse and worse. I welded on these bastards all day and am left with one on each side that I still can't get. Started to drill one with the beydler but I still can't dig it out. I am going to have to put a threaded insert in it. I have some timeserts now and I'll make the call tomorrow, timesert or helicoil. I am mentally drained today.

This V10 has 12 broken off well below flush and 3 broken that are still sticking out a little. This is probably the worst I can remember. These front 4 on the left are going to be a bitch.

That truck above is coming back next week for headgaskets. Right now I'm fighting V10 manifolds on an 08 F-550. This thing is extremely rusty considering its not a plow truck. Almost every u-joint on it was destroyed. 3 of the 4 rear driveshaft u-joints, one front driveshaft and both front axle joints (they were complaining of a vibration). The manifolds are approaching more broken studs than intact. I'm guessing it takes me all weekend to get them done. Next to it is a 6.7 fuel system that got okay'd today. Outside is a 6.0 bucket truck waiting on headgaskets and a reseal. Also sent an estimate for a 6.7 6007 for an 11 F-550 service truck.

Ahhh then perhaps that's the answer. Maybe the super duty front driveshaft is manufactured by Neapco. That would explain why they're the ones who offer a centering ball repair kit and are the suppliers of the OEM u-joints. I heard once from someone that the Dana Spicer and Neapco plants are right next door to each other and they sometimes trade work back and forth. Not sure if its true or not.

I know Spicer supplies Ford with most of their OEM U-joints but I discovered today that 5C3Z-4635-AA is not the same as a Spicer 5-1350x. The Ford u-joint actually appears to be the lesser quality part. The cap seals aren't as sturdy and they don't snap into place like the Spicer version. The seal reminds me more of the greasable version which is designed to be purged.I changed 7 u-joints on an F-550 today and the rear driveshaft and front axles were stamped SPR. The OEM front driveshaft joint has no markings on it. Also I got another free front driveshaft to rebuild. This one is in a little better shape so I'm going to rebuild it with the Spicer life joints. It was a gift from my best fleet customer. I'm going to make sure that dust boot seal I posted up actually fits. Here's the 2 u-joint differences. OEM on the left with snap rings and Spicer on the right with C-clips.

Price initially. I chose Spicer because of the quality but the cheaper joints because I wasn't sure if this would work. If it does work and I feel I can perform this repair again I'll use the non-serviceable 5-1350x. I'm curious to see if a serviceable joint can hold up in this application if maintained. I believe the OEM u-joint is in fact a Spicer 5-1350x.

Well I may have been wrong about that dust boot. I ordered a spicer 2-86-418 and it came in today. I can't check it's exact fitment because my shaft is already assembled but it measures out very close to what i wrote down for the old one. The specs posted for it aren't correct. http://www.jegs.com/i/Spicer/094/2-86-418/10002/-1

Never seen a standpipe o-ring fail. Found some that were close but not enough to cause a concern

I just put 94.03 on our older IDS today. Did a 14E03 with it so far, no issues