Matt Saunoras

I forgot to quote axle seals on the last rear brake job I did on an F-550 so I took a chance and put in the much cheaper BRS-127. Worked just fine, we'll see how it holds up. BRS-110 = 5C3Z-1S175-GA cost is $39.45, list $65.75ea BRS-127 = 6E7Z-1177-AA cost is $14.68, list $24.47ea

Also here is the only way I can figure to get grease into these fittings.Took my new grease needle and put a slight bend into it. Not only does it access the flush mount fittings I put in the driveshaft but it also gets grease into 99-04 upper balljoints too.

I finally made it to the final phase of my driveshaft rebuild :haha2:Today I installed the front u-joint and greased the splines. Rather than order a new Ford boot/clamp kit I just purchased aftermarket 50mm stainless crimp clamps. They aren't exactly the same width but are close enough.Put it in my truck, locked the hubs in and put about 45 miles on it so far. Seems just fine.

I try to check the water pump every chance I get but I've never seen one do this. Usually the impeller is just separating and boring its way into the front cover. Occasionally I see ones that are starting to cavitate where the o-ring seals.

Could be, either way it's back together with both cores flushed, new drier and TXV with the correct amount of oil and refrigerant added. I'm going to drive it around some today and let it go on Monday.Had a good one earlier this week. The silver truck I did coolers on last month finally came in for headgaskets. Customer was complaining of it overheating since then and I just shrugged it off since the headgaskets were so bad.Post headgasket roadtest almost instantly started overheating and had to limp it back to the shop. Changed the T-stat real quick thinking possibly something was wrong with the new one I put in. Nope. Started overheating idling in the shop. No heat from the vents, no flow from the degas bottle return hose coming from the intake. That impeller just spins free.

This compressor was originally warranty and the new compressor is obviously still going to be warranty. The TXV and drier are going to be subsequent damage. The problem I have and we all probably have is the compressor alone is more than the average A/C repair on our 126. Now honestly the only A/C warranty repair I can remember performing is, you guessed it, a compressor failure on 6.7s (A LOT). So guess what, we're high in A/C now. The drier, TXV and flush labor only adds salt to the wound. You're damned if you do and damned if you don't. Somehow someway I've been getting away with just changing compressors until now. Honestly I'm not seeing shards of metal coming out of them, and the small amount of oil in the lines still appears clean. What I have noticed is that I am not draining any oil from the old compressor. Now if you look at the book it has you removing oil from the new compressor because the book assumes the oil must be somewhere else in the system. You wouldn't want to add too much oil by leaving a full almost 3 ounces that comes shipped in the compressor. What I'm wondering is if these systems are not coming with the correct amount of oil added. How the hell are you supposed to know? I guess you can't unless you flush the whole thing, change the TXV and drier, and add the total system spec (which is only about 3.5 ounces). We'll see though. Hopefully this is the fix.

I have never had a cooler or gaskets called back by ford. In fact I can't really remember the last time they called something back from me. (Aside from my SPW 6.4 t-stats )

Doing a repeat compressor failure on a 6.7. Planning on changing the drier and TXV which I may start doing on all of them. Borrowed a flush machine from our other store. We've simply never had the equipment to do a/c work properly. What do you guys do for a locked up compressor?

Man that one was tough. Took longer to get that single stud out that the other 3 combined. Did get it though, no drilling. I had to weld blind, basically steady my hand, look away and pull the trigger. It worked though.

Taking some broken studs out for another tech doing manifolds on a 5.4 3V F-150. One of the broken ones is the RF lower behind the spring tower. Having problems accessing it.

I wish they'd make a formed gasket similar to a trans pan gasket for these things. I had to r&r a metal pan for drain plug thread damage and basically ruined the old pan sealing surface removing it. I was installing a new one anyways but for one you'd plan on saving forget it. Maybe Felpro will come out with one

Sorry the TSB is 04-25-04

4C3Z-12B568-AA is the kit used in TSB 04-25-05. That's how I always remember where to find the part number.

Wow! Did that intake get melted? It looks like there's nothing left of the EGR portion not to mention the crack that's plain as day. Also the intake I posted pics of? Sold it for $150 about a month ago.

I've been using a very small amount of engine oil to help slide the cooler in (a drop or two and no more). I tried coolant like the WSM says and it made it significantly harder. I set the far end with no end cap on the concrete floor and kneel down on the core with most of my body weight. That seems to do the trick.

I did not disconnect either alternator but it had crossed my mind. I will dig into this thing further when I get a chance. Something isn't powering down like it should I just haven't found it yet. I hadn't thought of the amp clamp idea, I'm not sure we have one that will pick up such a small draw but I will find out. I will try voltage drop testing the fuses too. I haven't located the add on fuse panel yet but they sent up the wheeled coach owners manual with it too. I'll look around some more.

Corrosion in the bore also prevents the new harness from being seated easily too. I always try and scotchbrite or sand paper the bore to make it smooth again. If you ever have to remove the harness again it makes it a lot easier.

This is the first ambulance I've ever checked for battery draw and I'm not sure what I should expect to see. I don't really have a like unit to compare it to either. I verified it though and it will drain the batteries if it sits for a few days. After everything powers down it will continuously draw 560 mA. Seems excessive to me but I'm not sure. As far as I can tell its not anything factory either. Removed every fuse one at a time with no significant change.

That sounds like the worst idea I've ever heard. Those back o-rings take a beating. I've seen more than a few that looked like they were leaking.

Had a 6.0 box ambulance towed in today. Shut off driving down the road after it puked a bunch of oil out. Verified no base oil pressure and the upper oil pan is cracked and separated from the bedplate. They said they didn't hear anything.

If you saw the trucks and the guys that usually work on them you'd know why. If it ain't half assed it isn't going on the truck.

The battery terminals had long since corroded away so what these guys do is cut the terminals out, put lead terminals in and put lugs on all the original cables. Instead of having one long positive cable it may be cut into a few sections.Another dealer down the road a little ways just dropped a complete engine in this truck and when they hooked the batteries back up they left the positive cable that runs from right to left unhooked, it was kinda tucked down behind the washer bottle. The truck made it about 25 miles before the left battery depleted from not being charged. and off topic.... I'm completely pissed they dropped 17k into this truck at another dealer. I've saved this companies ass more than a few times on their fleet of shitty oil field trash 6.0s and they put the truck at another dealer only to have it towed to me right after they picked it up. I really don't understand people. This would be the second time this has happened with this fleet too.

I am going to pull the cooler right now and check the o-rings and end caps. Update, the end caps are fine, no corrosion at all. The o-rings are hard but not eaten away too bad. The caps did separate pretty easily from the cooler so maybe they were leaking. I don't know really. It's getting a cooler and some new o-rings and we'll see if it fixes it. This damn truck is a beast. One of a few so far that has maxed out my 18k

Got this 2003 7.3 bucket truck in here, noticed it has some oil in the degas bottle. Not much but it's just starting. Is that usually the oil cooler? Could it ever be an injector cup? I remember one truck a long time ago that was volcanoing oil from the degas from a cup that split wide open.

I used a regular crowfoot and a 4" extension but I was sweating the whole time. Much care has to be taken to not damage the injector. I had no trouble with the right side having the cooler out of the way. The left side was a little tight. I will order that socket set for sure. Any more I have so many tools a few more won't hurt.