Matt Saunoras

I catch those high pressure turbos leaking all the time from the compressor seal. You might not have oil in the intercooler yet but the compressor outlet will be coated in a thick black sludge. If that seal is bad it could easily be the source of your crankcase pressure.

Oh believe me, I saw that when it came out and thought about it the entire time I drilled. I even tried to make a guide out of an old u-pipe flange but the bolt hole is just too loose. This is the first one I've ever broken off in a high pressure turbo, I know if I buy the guide it will be the last one too Right now I'm in the middle of fuel lines and a water valve in an 03 E-350. Didn't quite make the list for my top 10 favorite jobs

I'm having problems viewing anything I click under the service tips tab on my home computer. Windows 8 and IE 11 I believe these are PDFs? Nevermind, stupid me didn't have Adobe Reader installed

Bringin dis bitch back to da top!

If I had a whole set of 4c3z I wouldn't hesitate to put them in an 03. I wouldn't mix and match though I did it once on an 03 truck that was getting sent to the auction. Stuck a good used injector out of my 06 truck into it and it ran fine.

Bluepoint BLPTS1430 stubby torx https://store.snapon.com/TORX-174-Stubby-chrome-Blue-Point-174-1-4--Socket-Driver-TORX-174-Stubby-Blue-Point-T30-P645862.aspx

The 1/8" bits that I drilled the initial hole gave me the most trouble. I had 2 new RMT cobalt bits that wouldn't drill worth a shit, then I went through 2 Norseman moly bits that worked a little better. The funny thing was when the bits stopped drilling they still looked good and I'm sure they'd still drill through a softer metal just fine. They'd cut for about 10 seconds and just stop. Once I stepped up to bigger bits they went right in. I was using tap magic as a lube.

I just drilled an up-pipe bolt out of the back of a 6.4 turbo, cab off of course. Those stainless bolts are rock hard, that's the first 6.4 anything I've tried to drill. Saved the original treads but it took me more time and bits than I'd like to admit.

Hey now, be nice, I'm learning. I just bought a drill doctor too

I hear you man. I deal with shit other people screwed up all day long but never anything to this extent. Another thing I noticed with the 4th pic is look how rusty the head studs are. This truck was undriveable when I got it and it certainly didn't sit around here with the hood up. It can't have 10 miles on it since those were installed. How do they get that bad? I almost wonder if the kid bought used studs. I haven't heard anything about this truck since it left, I heard it went to the independent up the street but I don't see it around their lot anywhere now. I can't imagine it's inside getting worked on since I sure as fuck couldn't get any actual money authorized on it.

Kinda wonder why they installed the delete in the first place. You'd be surprised how many people think that's gonna solve all their 6.4 problems. Last I checked it won't fix an overfueling injector.

I concur, that is some major damage the likes of which I've never seen personally.

Put 8 glow plugs in an 6.0 F-550 dump today. Had the heads off this thing 2 years ago so the harnesses actually weren't that bad to get out. Next to it is another 6.0 F-550 that needs front axle u-joints, p/s gear and 8 injectors. Also got a 6.4 here with metal in the fuel causing #1 and #6 to intermittently overfuel making it smoke and miss badly at times. Then I got to see my first 7.3 in an e-series. Has a fuel leak in the valley. I am getting beat up over this 10 fusion tranny that's here that I have no interest in doing. Would you guys think less of me for quitting over a tranny a guy that doesn't work here anymore diagnosed?....or do I need more of a reason....like an attempt at management to force trannys on me while up to my head in truck work?

I had one that wound up being a shorted out throttle plate wire. It was coding for it intermittently though . That was kind of an unusual situation though, harness was smashed by a V-MAC.

The truck was towed out of here yesterday. It's at an independent up the street, basically my biggest competition in the area. As much as I'd like to just forget about the truck I have a feeling this isn't the end.

This turned out way worse that I ever could have imagined. Let this be a lesson to anyone thinking of helping anyone out and not being compensated for your time. The story starts with a 2004 early 6.0 F-350 that belongs to a 17 year old kid. He's kind of fallen on some hard times with his father passing away recently from injuries sustained in a bad car accident. I felt bad and unfortunately let my emotions get in the way.Now earlier in the summer last year I knew he was trying to install head studs, larger fuel injectors, a turbo etc. He was constantly in the shop asking me questions and looking for advice. I told him all I could knowing full on he wasn't capable of the job, at one point in time I gave his dad an estimate on doing the work at the dealership. Fast forward to a few months ago. The truck is running, he studded his truck with 180k miles on it by pulling one head bolt at a time and installing studs that way. Totally against my recommendation (basically hasn't listened to a word I said). He says he can't build any boost and wants me to look at it. Before I can think about it the truck is towed to our shop.It's in way worse condition than I remember seeing it a few years ago. This was a nice looking truck, white/tan two tone lariat. Now it's a train wreck, the body is horribly sanded down and bondo'd up. The underhood is the subject of my worst nightmare, it looks like it sat outside for months with the hood up. The wiring is a mess, the loom that runs across the cowl is completely missing its protective shield and the wiring is laying down on the turbo. The IAT2, EOT, glow plug harnesses, and all 3 FICM connectors are all broken badly. The ICP/IPR wiring near the rear of the intake looks like a rats nest. The evap core box is not even close to sitting in all the way. Most of the hose clamps are simply missing.I am about sick to my stomach at this point. But regardless the truck was brought in to be diagnosed. I wasn't sure how it was supposed to run with much larger fuel injectors but either way it started and ran horribly. As I found out #1 and #4 cylinders were dead misfires. Now I know we're in deeper than a boost issue. Took a fuel sample/measured fuel pressure and surprisingly both were good. Ran my injector self test, #1 did not click but #4 did. Ran relative compression and it was all zeros, cranking it sounded way better than actually idling it. Plugged in a good injector into #1 harness and it clicks.So I get with the kid and he's in total denial about how bad it is. He's sure it's a boost problem and runs just fine. I'm already getting quite irritated at this point but somehow we agree I'll remove the injectors and he'll send them off to be tested or replaced. What I find when I dig deeper makes me even more terrified of this truck. There are approximately 6-8 broken off valve cover bolts. To make it worse he tried to drill them out and drilled so far off center that it would be impossible to remove these with the rocker boxes in the vehicle, the rocker boxes are junk. The oil rail bolts are so grossly over tightened I'm surprised they're not all broken off. Same with the injector hold downs! #4 was so tight I was scared I was going to break my T40, then I get over to #1 and it's already got a piece of T40 bit broken off in it!The oil is the blackest oil I've ever seen in a 6.0, under the valve covers looks like what would happen to a 6.0 that sat uncovered outside for several seasons. There is so much dust stuck to the valvetrain I can't believe this thing even runs at all. Once this dirt makes it to the oil cooler screen it's going to plug until it breaks a window out and unleashes its fury on the IPR. It's only a matter of time.That leads us to yesterday. I'm under heat from the GM to get working on this thing, quite frankly I want it gone but I guess that's not fair to just tear into something and give up on it, even though that's what the kid already did. I put the new #1 and #4 injectors in with 2 new hold downs, almost got burned by #1 which was somehow missing a copper washer. Key the truck on and I can hear an injector missing it's click, 7 injectors rattling just doesn't sound right.Fire it up and #4 is back but damn it #1 is still a dead miss. Now I'm totally pissed off. #1 was the one that didn't click and it still doesn't click. So the tester FICM comes out, and I load test all the wiring, and I switch the harness around to click different injectors. All of it leads back to #1 injector which throws a P0262 like it always has. But the #1 injector open and close solenoids read both .5 ohms of resistance, same as all the other injectors I have laying around with good solenoids. I have no freaking idea what to do at this point, it took about a month to get these injectors send out and back to me. There's no way in hell anyone is going to believe me if I say it's another bad injector. So I got a bright idea (literally) and got the noid light out I made to be sure the FICM wasn't burning up the injector, which it's not.As an absolute last resort I pulled the #1 injector back out. Took one of my old injectors from the ambulance last week and sat them down on the bench and swapped solenoids. The spool valve was stuck in the injector so I gave the ends a little polish and made sure it stayed free when I reassembled it. Put it all back together a second time (injector clicks now) and it fired right up/idled just fine.Jump in it for a little roadtest and instantly on acceleration the cab fills up with smoke from an apparent exhaust leak and evap box not seated. Start running it around the block a few times only to realize the trans shifting is completely screwed up. I'm not sure if it's the tune or the trans is toast but whatever it is the truck is still not drivable. I hate to destroy the kid but I'm not taking a damn bit of heat over this truck.Believe me, I learned my lesson. I've got some pics I took to cover my ass.

The 12 6.7 with no ABS communication was a corroded through HS CAN + wire by the left spring tower in harness 12A581 near connector C140.

To look at today we've got an 05 F-550 dump 6.0 customer states it was up on the rack for service and started cranking on its own. Next to it is a 12 F-350 6.7 with an ABS module that intermittently fails the network test. Then there's another 05 F-550 here for some front end work. This 550 that was cranking on it's own is a salt truck for my best fleet customer. It's also got a bad oil leak on the left side of the engine, come to find out that the bulletproof diesel external oil cooler line is perforated and leaking. A call to bulletproof yesterday and they had me send some pictures. They are going to warranty out the line and I just have to pay for shipping.

Nope just one of those flat rate moments, last line of a repair order with 10 complaints.

Also I pulled a good one this morning, changing a shifter in an 08 super duty for a tow haul button inop. Snapped the damn bolt off in the new shifter. It was all the way in too so the bolt was sticking out the back a little keeping the shifter loose but not able to pull out. Man that was a nightmare. Had to drill it from the back with a mirror.Once it was out I was able to drill and helicoil. No way that bolt was coming out. <sigh>

I may be able to borrow a snap-on scan tool for the job. It's a bus owned by the ambulance company I do work for so I'll see what they want to do tomorrow. They know I might not be able to do anything with it.

Wow that Dana 60 was way different than the few ford rear ends I've done. First of all you need 4 setup bearings not 3 like I thought. It didn't occur to me the outer pinion bearing is pressed on to the pinion unlike a Ford. I didn't quite get the no crush collar deal at first either. Apparently the outer pinion shims fell out during removal unbeknownst to me. I really had no idea why I was getting excessive preload at first. Once I did realize where the shims went it took about 4 tries to get the proper preload. All in all though it went well, got an acceptable pattern that's a little high on the toe but perfect backlash (on the low side for new gears). It actually took me longer to make my dummy bearings than it did to get a good pattern.

Thanks. Should I even waste my time without any way to monitor pid data? I know you emphasized wiring problems and that's what my first instinct tells me.

Got a call today on a 2006 GMC 5500 32 passenger bus. Guy said it had a P0007, P0200 and a P0088 in it. Runs like crap, won't go over 65mph. I don't have the vin, is an 06 an LLY or LBZ?

I priced the Dana 60 and 80 tools last night and its definitely not worth the investment. Today I torqued my first set of super duty balljoints. Thanks you jerks