Matt Saunoras

I have blown out broken bolts with a torch before but I've never gotten one so good I could just retap. A helicoil is what I end up using to fix those threads. I try to know as much as I can about welding/ oxy fuel because its going to be useful in the future. I'm not sure how much longer this dealership gig will last. Not enough trucks and too much fucking around going on here.

That's what my MIG is. Millermatic 211. Very nice machine, never had a problem with it.

I do not quite know how to remove broken fasteners with the TIG yet. I'm positive it would be much more precise and yield better results if done correctly. My biggest thing is standing up while using the foot pedal. I wouldn't be comfortable using the remote start feature for a TIG. I have an 03 6.0 turbine housing here with a mounting bolt broken off very deep in the hole. I need to get this bolt out soon so I may try and take pics out in the light.

Nope just build it out using the MIG..... with C25 shielding gas of course I use Lincoln Superarc L-56 .030" wire and the machine hooked up to 220V.

It's gone for now, if any other issues arise I'll be the first to know. Right now I'm just not sure what happened. I don't know about the high idle, I'm assuming its factory, maybe BCP? I didn't see a controller (factory or aftermarket) mounted anywhere in the cab. Pushing the e-brake in park kicks it on As for the fuel pressure it wasn't checked. I did have the engine out last year so I rechecked the engine ground and it was fine. I took a normal start up screen shot but I forgot to send it to myself. I'll post it here if I get a chance tomorrow

Got me a fun one today. 5.4 3 valve manifolds in a super duty. Only broke one stud off. I was going to try and do a write up but I couldn't seem to get good pics due to location. I'm not usually the guy who gets gasser manifolds but I sure do get to pull all the broken studs. After my SM saw how smoothly this one went things may change.....not in my favor.

It wasn't a stall, I shut it off after coming back from a road test and performing the EGR test. Cycled the key on and cranked. I hit the capture button a little late because I wasn't expecting any issues. Also this thing has a new harness within the last year

This was on an 05 E-450 ambulance that has reliably given me the weirdest problems. They were complaining of a cold start issue I'm sure was related to the low FICM voltage I found. Before that I was driving it around, stopping it, restarting it, ran my boost and EGR tests, no codes in continuous or on demand, yet. Starts fine every time.Then this happened and I'm not sure if it was cause or effect. It was right after my EGR test so I assumed right away the valve got stuck based on the way it was running. Very choppy high RPM idle, very loud due to the high ICP.I ran codes again and P2284 popped up in continuous. Very interesting, whatever the fault was I don't know if I caught it or this was a result of it. During cranking IPR instantly jumps to 85% and ramps down to 65ish while its running even though ICP is way higher than it should be.Anyone ever seen anything like this? Pulled the IPR out and the screen looked fine. Put an ICP sensor in it because the old one looked...well....old. Drove the hell out of it today and it never acted up again.

This thing has been a thorn in my side since I first started this fleet. It pulled some weird shit today and I think I'm going to start a new thread. I captured a decent screen shot but it doesn't explain why what happened did.Long story short what I captured was a long crank and after it started ran like shit, surging and running at a higher rpm than normal. What I found was IPR initially command to 85% and dropped to 60%. This resulted in ICP way too high for a smooth idle. I hurried up and shut it off and it restarted fine every time afterwards. It set a P2284 in continuous when this occurred. Every other restart resulted in a fairly low IPR, around 45%, which built ICP in plenty of time.I pulled the IPR which looked fine and put a known good ICP sensor in it. It also got a new FICM for some low voltage(I think this was their original cause for concern and I stumbled into something else) What I guess I need to find out is what dictates IPR duty cycle while cranking. And where that ICP code came from is beyond me, I didn't see anything at all in ICP_V that would have caused concern. The main engine harness is around 20k miles old.

Nope haven't heard that one

I have never once claimed M-time on a diesel repair regardless and I am the only one performing diesel repairs in our shop, if I wasn't basically hourly no one would be doing them. Guess what, our numbers are through the roof. Apparently I'm hanging too many parts on these trucks but not a fucking one has returned for any problems whatsoever. Infact we've been dead for 2 straight months because all my fleet customers aren't having any problems. But I'm in the wrong and clearly can't do it right. No one is ever going to win this game

What kind of rebuild are you looking for? I've been doing my own for a while and just passing the savings on to my good customers for the cost of parts. A 6.0 turbo is about as easy as it gets as long as you can find parts (ebay). Media blast everything clean and reassemble. A Garrett turbo rotating assembly isn't balanced with both wheels attached, each individual piece is balanced and then assembled. Most of the times this is well within OEM specs so you really can't assemble a bad one. Ford Remans are assembly balanced though so before you take one of those apart you need to index the compressor wheel to the turbine shaft. Also you shouldn't mix and match rotating parts from an OEM turbo and a reman. (Lets say for example a compressor wheel that is balanced as part of an assembly might not be balanced on its own) I cracked open a couple 6.4 borg warner turbos to have a look and I won't be doing that again. They are much too labor intensive to risk screwing one up. At least if I botch a 6.0 turbo (it happened) I can have it out in 15 minutes. You can buy new VGT vanes, unison ring and a seal kit all on eBay. Even aftermarket turbines and compressor wheels are around if needed. They'll work just fine in stock applications. The hardest piece to find if damaged is probably a turbine housing. Once a vane pin gets broke that's about it, you need a whole turbo.

Oh I agree that the driver would definitely know something is wrong via check engine light or reduced power. That isn't always enough to get them in the shop though. This was the last turbo I found like this. Definitely an overheat caused by driving too long with blown headgaskets.

Overspeed and over boost are not always the same thing. You can overspeed the turbo if the vanes are closed too much and normal boost levels are achieved. Obviously stock boost can be achieved at a range of VGT positions but only one spot is going to be optimal. The EBP sensor plays the main role in this and as we know it's critical it works properly. I spoke to the guy who does my turbo machine work/balancing and he speculated that vanes closed too far could potentially act like a blow torch. High EBP and high EGT go hand in hand and the high EBP is being accelerated across the vanes. In the bottom pic on the original post it appears the middle of the vanes are actually caved in, I don't think this is just from FOD. I was going to run my VT365 turbo on my truck but after giving it some thought I don't think this is a good idea. I think with stock powerstroke tuning this could be a recipe for disaster for all the reasons given above. Too small of a turbo.

I've chased a few repeat leakers that wound up being headgaskets over pressurizing the cooling system. Could metal flakes be evidence of some kind of stop-leak? I'm not sure

Overspeeding the turbo will put it out of it's efficiency range so I suppose anything is possible (where a turbo is most efficient will result in the coolest EGTs). Towing or heavy loads could easily be a factor that pushes it over the edge.

High EGTs will melt the turbine, most of the trucks I see this in were clearly overheated by evidence of fuel in the coolant, blown headgaskets or the occasional EGR cooler. One I saw was FOD from a missing exhaust valve. Anymore I always crack open the turbo early in the repair process to check the exhaust side, I've gotten burned by that a few times in the past. Some will insist it's possible for a worn out vane tab to allow the vane to contact the turbine but I'm not so sure. I'll have to take a measurement to see how close the turbine can possibly get to the vanes when they're fully open.

Maybe the start of metal in the fuel. Usually a couple contribution codes and a bunch of wacked out fuel trims lead me to that diagnosis.

This showed up today in an 11 F-450 with a P228F

Sadly I believe that was the last time this truck had an oil change. It doesn't have an easy life either. 18' rollback F-550.

Not good, this turbo isn't a year old yet and neither is the shortblock i put in this truck. But when you don't change your oil in 17k miles the all bets are off.

TSB 14-0192 is now out superseding 14-0142. It addresses the idle only situation instead of all exhaust fluid fault messages. The procedure for chassis cab trucks is different than pickups

I still would have made a move

Need any help down there? I'm not sure how much longer I can take without being out of work. I seriously dread going in every day.

You know the way those valve covers are the potential for something like that to fall in when the upper intake is off is very high.