Matt Saunoras

I always loosen the right side too, just the nuts. also I use a bottle jack and a short 4x4 under the bell housing. That bell housing will hold the entire engine up if needed. It sounds hairy but it works. The chassis will raise a little bit but you're unloading the weight of the engine off of it so that's fine.

Took a look at a 6.4 today with a P120F in memory. This thing was derated bad with that code. Pinpoint test M has you looking at the FRP, no concerns found so I put a sensor and UVC harness in it. Noticed my fuel trims looked a little off so I pulled a sample from the #1 injector. Metal. Put the thing back together, drained the fuel from the high pressure bleed tool into a clean container. Even more metal. It's one of my good fleet customers and they're planning on keeping the truck at least another year.

I didn't notice the new one being much different from the old one. What I did was take a roll of the escape recall harness tape and added some extra padding in a few spots. The old harness was heavily soiled in salt and road debris and I believe that was a factor, the new one didn't touch the frame and most I've seen don't.

Seen a bunch of problems with those battery harnesses. Even had one rub through on the right frame and catch fire.

I've seen a few 6.7s collapse the hose over night. Honestly I wasn't sure why but they weren't exhibiting any cooling system concerns at the time. Anyone know if the 6.7 uses the same cap as the 6.0/6.4?

E-series like to flatten gaskets because of how hot they run. It's not uncommon to have oil cooler cover gaskets and rocker box gaskets flattened and hard as a rock. Sounds like you have a high pressure oil leak too. By chance it's not the rear cover cracked from a dislodged STC?

Surprisingly a lot of people do. I always check during a headgasket or cooler repair. That was the first thing I replaced on my truck. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.I'll leave this here too. The STC I welded up to make an air check adapter. All you need is a cast steel 1/4" female NPT fitting and an old STC fitting. I used this to air check the pump on the bench too using a modified turbo feed gasket. Full fielded the IPR and bolted the adapter to the old STC with a couple longer M6 bolts. I don't know realistically how useful bench testing a pump is but I did it. It was interesting to see how much air bled out of the IPR dump even with the valve fully shut. Not much but enough to give you a false air leak. Both IPRs I tested acted the same way. I did not have any air leak out of the HPOP feed hole either. I made that tool years ago but only ever had to use it a handful of times

30 miles on this pig. Got all the air out of the oil rails. Starts like a champ, IPR settles right down to 22-23%. So what actually fixed it? I'm going with STC even though it was fully intact. If it cold starts good tomorrow I'm going to be happy.......well maybe not "happy" but satisfied.

Yeah no air from the oil filter housing. Also the cap and filter are OEM. Oil looks fresh and no signs of lack of maintenance under the valvecovers. All the injector top d-rings are intact as are the standpipe d-rings. If the STC doesn't fix it I'm going to condemn the pump.

I don't know, it concerns me that the no start hot is exaggerated by the time it sits after it is shut off, like there is a drain back issue. The plan for today is to go back together with a new fitting and my tester IPR. I need to pull the rails and physically check the lower standpipe o-rings too. Then I'm getting out my 6.0 diagnostic dice.

Getting beat by a hot no-start in an 07 F-250. 87k miles. This thing has no warranty history and from what I can tell by looking under the hood no one has ever touched it. Easy right? Has original dummy plugs and STC. First air check cold left me checking under the right valve cover because I thought I heard an air leak. Original standpipe and dummy plug, nothing wrong with either one. So I put it back together and feeling pretty stupid I start over and figure I should probably verify the concern. That's when I knew it was going to be a problem, hottest I could get EOT was about 190°F and it wasn't even enough to get it to no-start. It still cranked and fired well within a normal amount of time and if I wasn't watching ICP I wouldn't know anything was wrong... but there is something wrong. A quick shut off and restart showed nothing, but the longer I let it sit after shut off the longer it took ICP to build. I let it sit for about 5 minutes one time and the subsequent restart had my IPR pegged at 85% before ICP started to build, which it did and it started. So another air check, this time hot, still can't hear anything that tells me where I need to go. I let it cool off over night and went in today to check the remaining shit. Off with the left valvecover, like the right side nothing is worn, no leaks heard. The dummy lower o-ring is just starting to wear, not enough to cause anything. So I pull the turbo and pump cover because I can still hear something in the rear of the engine, What I find is the STC still intact and my air leak is not anything I can tell where it's coming from. The only thing I can feel is a little air coming from the IPR dump port. I actually air checked the pump thru the original STC on the bench while rotating the gear and nothing. Air checked the rest of the system directly off the branch tube with my home-made adapter, nothing. No direction to go other than the original STC is a little loose, looser than most that I find and change as preventative maintenance. But the o-ring is fully intact. So I need a game plan and I feel that is going to involve working on a Sunday because I can't afford to get beat by this thing all next week. Got a 6.4 HPFP lined up for Monday and a 6.7 6007 that will arrive on Wednesday.

The late 6.4 boxes have been on backorder for as long as I can remember (or at least every time I needed one in the last 3 years). Given the availability I'm sure someone at one time as retrofitted an early to a late. At least now this appears to be a viable option. I can't check availability on either number because it comes from a FAD but my guess is the early box is a little more available than the later one (even used is an option given how many are out there).

Man the amount of tools I buy that I shouldn't is astronomical. Set up that 10.5 yesterday with all the essential pinion shim tools I now own.

Late 99 I scanned yesterday had them

Got word that they junked a 6.0 ambulance today. I'm first in line for the motor, waiting to hear what they want for it.

Yeah I wasn't thinking when I typed that, of course a 6.0 shaft would be different in some way, shape or form. There must be a change over from shafts and boxes in 08 or nothing like what you found would exist. I'll pick my parts guys brain tomorrow about all this.

So the new shaft fit the new box. Good to hear. Do you think there's any chance the old box in the truck was replaced at one point? Perhaps with one from a junk yard, maybe an older model year? I know one thing. I'll be keeping an eye out from now on.

I am interested to see what the new shaft looks like. My brain is telling me I've seen the half moon splined shaft on the 6.0s and the triangle non-splined shaft on the 6.4s. I know for sure I have resealed steering boxes on 6.4s (because they are on backorder) and I specifically remember the triangle shaft. Perhaps it's a running change. When you look up the box for 09 (no vin) does it show multiple choices?

The late 99 7.3L I had with the P1668 and P1316 I believe was caused by the TS performance chip installed in it. I'll admit, I know as little about 7.3s as almost anyone. I don't have the slightest clue how that works or if the chip was bad or just maybe loose. Customer was complaining of an occasional stalls but restarts fine and a cuts out while idling. I drove the thing 30 miles tonight with the chip uninstalled and it ran just fine for me. Instantly stopped setting the IDM code. Looked at an 11 6.7 today with about 225k on the clock. #4 glow plug and misfire code. Know what that needs. Also sold brakes and rotors all the way around on a 12 F-550. 7500 mile salt truck. Rotors completely destroyed and pads metal on metal. Got a rear end to build and a Truetrac to install in an 05 F-250. Also this truck is getting my latest built turbo. Supervisor of my best fleet of 6.0s. Then I looked at a 2010 F-350 6.4L that slid backwards into a ditch and screwed up the drivers side leaf. I should have another 08 F-350 6.4 coming in for a HPFP later in the week too.

I would like to get a Jon boat with an outboard jet drive. A Lowe with a Merc would do just fine That's about the only way to fish some of the smaller rivers around here.

I make $22/hr, 40hrs guaranteed then every diesel hour I turn I get an extra $5. Whatever that works out to be gets tacked on to my hourly rate since I mostly break even. I could potentially make up to $29 but there would have to be some serious work around and I'd have to stop taking calls all day too (I have my own desk now ). Our diesel rate is $100/hr while our two biggest competitors are still at $93. I kind of wish I was in a bigger shop with more work but on the other hand I like being the only diesel guy, we'd never have enough room for anyone else so it would stay as me running the show as long as I'm here. I could very easily get a raise but I'm too worried it could backfire, I'm the only one who hasn't complained in a while (shocking I know). Plus I don't feel like I've put my time in like some of you other guys. I feel your pain though. I'm no longer the highest paid even if my effective labor rate is the highest.

Well the ambulance needs headgaskets. It's an 04 with 320k miles and its in seriously rough shape. Regardless of what I quote I doubt they'll do it. The leak is the heater hoses behind the primary alt.

Couldn't say offhand. It's been years since I did a set of 7.3 up-pipes. Right now I've got a 12 F-550 6.7 rollback with a junk turbo, 6.4 dump that ate a power steering pump/needs a rad plus all 3 belts, late 99 7.3 with a P1668 and a 6.0 ambulance coming in with a coolant leak, most likely blown headgaskets. I'm gonna have the rad trifecta this week. Monday did the e-series 6.0, today did a 6.7 and tomorrow the 6.4.

I may try torqueing them if I remember on the next set. I never have used an impact but rather just go by feel with a 1/2" ratchet. It seems like if you snug the lower, then the upper, then retighten the lower until the knuckle moves with minimal resistance. Kind of like the WSM says, which I had no idea about, had to learn that one on my own.

I've had more problems with the caster sleeve being stuck in the wrong spot. Started loosening them all up and haven't had any more bound up balljoints.