Matt Saunoras

Yep it's a 5C3Z part number, 05-10 I believe. When I get a chance I'll disassemble it and make the call from there. If its no good I'll junk it, I'm just curious that's all. Chris I didn't even notice that until you mentioned it. Something is bound up in this thing for sure.

I do know of one truck out there I found greasable double cardan u-joints. No way in hell a grease gun fitting was going in there, the fittings were facing the wrong way. Greasable joints are definitely cheaper. About $10 a joint.Here is the joint in question. To me it looks like the ball can be cleaned up but the boot around it appears to be cracking. The ball is part of the yoke so it's non-serviceable I just need to get a hold of a seal if possible The spicer greasable joints are 5-178x, can't find out what the life joint number is either.

Putting a tranny in from the top. Went in a little easier than I thought. Leveling out the engine with a jack under the oil pan helped tremendously.

My bet would be on the PTU also. I've seen a few of those.

It wasn't bad, I wear a t-shirt all the time though. We were back up to 65 today and I was roasting.

I agree. I learned this with the aftermarket injector fiasco. I stock ARP head studs and bulletproof EGR coolers but only if you ask. I am a fan of the International halfshell too but not for just anyone, only my 6.0 fleets.

I watch the org and I know he's on there but doesn't post much. I'm waiting for it though. There's no shortage of people bashing Ford techs, I tend to not help those individuals. As for the truck I have not heard anything else about it. I'm still owed for 2 injector hold down clamps and 2 sets of o-rings.

Wow that is unbelievable. From what I heard ficmrepair.com was a reputable business but those are just lines of BS. I have never smoked a FICM or even heard of such a thing happening from over cranking. A starter? yes. A FICM? Give me a break. I would call them to straighten this out. Don't get mad at first, just hear them out. When they start spouting it's your fault then get mad.

I don't know about complete assemblies yet, they've been on backorder for a while. The whole assembly was cheaper than 4 individual sets but now since they're unavailable individuals are all I've been getting in.

A while ago I overheard a conversation where someone was talking about getting 6.4 rocker arms from International, something along the lines of them being different than the Ford ones. I didn't think anything about it at the time but this must be what they meant. I wonder if Ford purged their inventory of old rockers and now we are going to start seeing the new ones, hence the backorder. I wouldn't be surprised if International has had these for a while.

I don't know if anyone knew this or not but 6.0s and 6.4s do use the same rocker arms. Obviously the pedestals and plastic clips are different but that's about it. I always wondered this because I have on a rare occasion found worn out 6.0 rockers in the midst of a headgasket or some other repair. 6.4 arms are commonly stocked while 6.0s are not. I finally got a hold of some new 6.0 rockers and new 6.4 rockers to have side by side. Also note that 6.4 rockers are significantly cheaper than buying 6.0s. My price on some 6.4 rockers was about $400, a set for a 6.0 was approaching $1k. The first pic has the 6.0 rocker on top and the 6.4 on the bottom. Notice the date code, the 6.0 rockers I obtained are a few years old while the 6.4s are recent. Both have the lube ports on each end.The second and third pics show what seems to be a new design 6.4 rocker tip. The black color I would think indicates a hardening process has been implemented to decrease wear. I know the whole pedestal kit has been on backorder for a while but my parts dept is stocking 8 individual sets in the mean time. Guess what, the individual sets are coming in with broken clips too.

A couple of 220v heaters I found in the storage room. Went to Home Depot last night, bought some plugs and made an extension cord to run these babies off my welder outlet. It was 55 in the shop this morning. We don't have anything besides radiant heat in the floors and it can't keep up with these low temps. (boohoo I know )These stupid things have a 20 amp 220 plug on them, even if someone wanted to steal them off me it wouldn't do any good, can't plug them in anywhere.

Really? I just got that pack in last month. DOW shows 669 units left. Ontario shows 52

The parts catalog is wrong when listing the wedge, the part I have taken a picture of is the correct part. The 1C3Z number is the external wedge.

Yeah seriously, I have a maxxforce 7 coffee table book and it doesn't look anything like that

I install them if I'm under the covers for something else not related to the wiring, kind of as preventative not for a repair.

From the under cover harness to the valve cover gasket.

Fixed a 2013 F-350 today. None of the climate controls worked, HVAC module was offline. Found the MS-CAN- wire broken about 14-16" away from the DLC. Apparently the ms can - from the HVAC to the DLC is a single wire that's not tied into any other modules. The splice is at the DLC pin so no other modules were effected or even cared.

I hear you man, I'm sure we've all been into a few that we had no idea if it was getting fixed with tensioners, solenoids or phasers. I've been lucky enough to call long blocks when they needed them and not been burned by one yet. Anymore I always pull cam caps before digging too deep.

Did you figure anything out on this? I'd love to see a pic

What would you consider good? The new book spec? I've measured quite a few 5.4 3 valves hot and wasn't very sure what's good and what's not.

That's a good idea with the prybar. I've just been working them out with a 4lb sledge. Doesn't seem to require too much effort

I will post a pic of the ball if I get a chance this week, it does have surface rust on it but it's doesn't look like much more than a light coating. This project has been sidelined temporarily due to a lack of time.

Not quite. It's both turbos assembled plus an oil feed tube and hardware kit.

Had a 2010 6.4 towed in yesterday from my best fleet customer with a complaint of won't accelerate, runs rough and smokes. 3 codes in it, WIF, #4 contribution and #4 misfire. When I drove it I did get it to act up once so I hurried back to the shop only to never duplicate the concern again after over 30 miles of driving. Power balance started going wild, it wasn't a misfire or anything that looked like one cylinder. My FRP_V is sitting right at .50v about 55 psi koeo. Fuel trims are starting to look a little wacked out. This will be the 3rd or 4th of these recently that gave me strange intermittent drivability problems when metal was present in the fuel system. One thing I did notice was EGR never opened once in all that driving. Even updated the PCM to the latest cal, is this some kind of cold weather strategy to keep engine temps up? I have never noticed this before.