Matt Saunoras

Yup one little 40 cent ball was the whole problem. Shifts like a dream now

Hahaha wow that is messed up. I'm glad we're small and there's not bunch of people around after hours messing with shit. If I can't find something it's my own fault. The town car limo has a screwed up check ball as per TSB 09-20-14. I'm really praying that's all. The biggest clue something was amiss was when it stalled out in manual 2 this morning. That kinda made me scratch my head for a second.

I have seen the oil cooler bypass valve wear but that's about it. The oil filter bypass is in the filter standpipe. I'm not really sure what concerns either one could cause

I've taken a liking to the escape tape but the only roll I had (stole from the tech school guy before he quit) is almost gone. I picked up 4 rolls of 3/4" Polyken 268 off eBay and it's similar enough to work. The tape is not quite as heavy/thick as the harness tape but its still good.

That and I guarantee lawyers are involved

Yeah I figured as much. That's about the same as the VT turbo I have.

Lately it seems like I get elected for all the fun stuff. Something's wrong with 2nd gear in this thing.

Yup same thing. Put a new module in it, programmed the tires and all the codes cleared out of the BCM

My brother bought a brand new 14 F-150 with a 5.0 and the first thing he did was have a glass pack put in place of the factory muffler. It was definitely worth it. First thing I did to the 6.0 was get an exhaust sans muffler.

That's the lamest thing I ever heard.

Which is caused by a sticking PCV.

Yesterday I had a 13 Explorer police interceptor no one could figure out while I was off on Thursday (jury duty). TPMS light is on. TPMS system is faulted. Sensors won't train but the tool beeps seeing the sensors okay. The only time I've ever seen this was when the customer installed wheels and sensors off of a different model year vehicle with different frequency sensors. This was not the case so I checked oasis real fast and found an SSM related to police vehicles and RFI. I figured I'd check the TPMS module for its location related to any of the radio equipment. What I found was an unplugged pigtail and no module in sight. The module is located in a different spot for police vehicles with the console delete option. I suspect is it is bolted to the back of a trim piece below the radio and this piece was removed for this vehicle to install the aftermarket console. This console is a nightmare to remove also. I found out later the tire pressure light has been on since 3 miles after they received the vehicle. It has 30k on it now.

Front line used car? And here I thought I was working on some weird shit this week

I think at least half I've done weren't "fixed" by a reprogram. Look at it this way. What is the TSB actually repairing?

I got an ambulance shortblock and one head covered under injector failure of the same nature. If it wasn't an emergency vehicle I wouldn't have pursued it.

I hate when that happens. You know that even if the bolt comes out its pulling all the threads with it anyways.

I hear you 100%. The deck surface is completely unimpressive, 6.4s come the same way. The 20mm heads are unimpressive also, I agree fully. I've had the same marks if not worse in those heads before too. The new 18mm heads (actually they use 20mm dowels now) are nice though. DA and ARM both have induction hardened valve seats. I've never had one of those heads I wasn't impressed by. I suspect the ARM 18mms are all new castings and the bare head is not reused. They have to tag it reman if a valve spring or retainer is reused though. I am blown away that they have old lifter guides in there. I would get those out in a heartbeat and put the new stronger ones in. Who knows how brittle the old thin plastic ones are. Also the standard diameter bore is achieved by spray welding and remachining an old block. I would hope that the weld alloy used is harder than the original casting. Maybe that's the reason for the wall surface. I hadn't noticed any missing crosshatching on any of the ones I've done recently. I plain don't understand the deck finish though.

I have the one that I stock in my own personal parts dept.

Guess who's parts guy is selling these like hotcakes because no one else in the area stocks one.

The TSB wasn't a fix as much as it was a bandaid to get trucks out of warranty, it's still hit or miss and I always quote a pump anyways. You may catch a pump starting to fail but if you release a truck with a TSB reprogram and the pump fails in few weeks wiping out a whole fuel system I would be stuck thinking that could have been prevented. It almost happened to me, caught an ITP just starting to come apart on the last P0088 I did. I have to ask which two cylinders have wacked out fuel trims?

Not the seal individually, I just replace the whole plug also. I leave them a couple threads in and let them sputter a little bit just to make sure some fuel is in the rail before the injectors fire.

I've been pulling the plugs on the backs of the heads for a while now on any headgasket or engine job that allows so. I hotwire the pump on and let as much air purge out as possible.

I have reused studs several times in the past with no issues. Remember there are several different brands of studs out there. ARP is what is in probably 90% of trucks. These studs do require a special assembly lube to get the required amount of clamping force per the torque spec. If possible get some ARP assembly lube before tackling these studs. An ARP stud will have a 3/16" internal hex in the stud. The nuts are 11/16" twelve point and get torqued in three steps to 210 ft/lbs I have also used A1 technologies brand studs before too. These are a higher tensile strength stud and require less torque to get the same clamping force. The stud has a 1/4" internal hex and an 11/16" twelve point nut. There are several different alloys (17-22 or H11) out there and the torque varies from 160-170 ft/lbs depending. If you are redoing the studs in a hotrod truck you need to look closely at the heads. Determine where the gasket is blown and make sure it doesn't match up with a gasket impression, mark or low spot on the heads or block. If you have a machine shop you trust you can mill a few thousands off the heads to get them flat again. You can't go too far though because valve recession from the factory is already on the low end of the spec. One more thing, if you can sell them, put in 16 new pushrods, they are a revised length to decrease the chance of overloading a lifter. Chances are if you look hard enough you'll find a few that are bent. Most guys don't even look, just jam them in a box with some holes in it.

I'll take anything to break up the monotony of day to day crap. We've been really slow this month. Finished up a 6.0 stud job yesterday on an 07 F-550 and today was left with not a whole lot to do.I have no idea where this customer came from with this 14 F-550 dump with 1100 miles on it. The selling dealer is a truck shop in the city and the body company is close to us but they don't want to work on it. They are the ones actually paying for this repair which I don't exactly understand. Here is the leak, red fluid down the center of the engine. A week ago the body company says they can't find the leak and it must be power steering fluid. It's already been back there twice for the same leak and they "fixed" it the first time and couldn't find it the second time. Here is the offender, the threaded fitting on the inlet line is leaking from out around the threads. Verified with a mirror. Removing the shroud and stator is half the battle. Had parts get me some of this just to be sure. What I found was this fitting wasn't properly tightened, being pipe threads just snug isn't going to do it. No amount of thread sealant will help a loose fitting. The PTO fluid which just looked like power steering fluid dissolved it right away. With the PTO out in the open I could get a good crank on the fitting with a pipe wrench New sealant applied and the fitting tightened a little more than snug. No more leak And that made up most of my boring ass day.

I've been given the interesting task of fixing a leak on an engine mounted PTO in a 14 F-550 6.7. Why the selling dealer or the upfitter doesn't want to do it is beyond me. Pics later if I get a chance.